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Brian Weick
03-26-2007, 7:01 AM
Oliver 20C lathe Restoration
I was asked to start a new thread on this project so I decided to start today. There will be several updates on this and I hope that my post will help those that plan to restore their older machinery.
The year it was manufactured, approximately 1909 serial # 890
I never got back to the site and updated the answer to my question last year. Well ,I did it and bit the bullet- she has been in my shop for over a year now. she can do 20" over the carriage and 24" over the bed up to 106" in length and 84" on the outboard end. pivot headstock and offset turning along with the tail stock. weight 4,480lbs - getting it into my shop-"priceless" and it actually was not that bad, I had 2 , 6000 lb floor jacks and she moved very nice , getting out of RIT was a lot of maneuvering however. I have converted the 4 step flat belt to an s&K dbl v belt assembly - very smooth! Also updated the electronics-3hp induction motor, yawsaka 10hp vfd digital readout with all the bells and whistles- reverse, slow start up and infinite speed control.0-2500rpms.
the headstock is being removed, possibly this week - it is being converted from Babbitt bearings (they have to go- to sloppy(grease) and to much maintenance- they work fine, but to much maintenance and mess as i said before) going with a sealed IDC ball bearing setup. The shaft will be milled down from 2-1/4" down to 2.165 on the entire 30" shaft. This will not affect the 1-7/8" inboard threads or the 2-1/4" outboard threads for plate attachments as they will stop the machining up to the outboard threads. This will keep the overall appearance of the headstock and have a very high and reliable tolerance with shaft movement and functionality. I was contemplating having the ears on the headstock cnc'ed down to accept a flat plate and pillow blocks but changes the whole look of the 1909 lathe- I have seen it done on an American lathe on OWWM - it's ok - but not the original appearance of the lathe drive assembly.
It has a plate attachment for the carriage for a 3-1/4hp porter cable router to do fluted columns or any other design desired. An indexing plate will be permanently fixed to the shaft and can be adjusted in 1 degree increments/w locking on the index plate instead of pin whole- I wanted an infinite capability- not 5 degree steps. The carriage has interchangeable carving tools to accommodate any cutting that is desired.
currently in the process of having a linkage between the carriage and the headstock to accommodate spiral flutes in 1' increments depending on the length of a wood columns. When this final step is done it is being resurfaced and repainted in a battleship Grey or Hunter green with yellow lettering on any raised lettering. It is a pleasure to do work on this lathe - very high end results ~which is what I was after.
The Restoration:
Step One: Dismantling the lathe right down to the carriage insert plate adjustment screws. I used a chemical paint remover to remove all the paint from the lathe and any parts. The inside of the bed ways was never painted and dry as a bone. There was some minor surface rust that I had to clean up with a twisted wire rope wheel before I primed everything that was getting paint. Everything that was getting a paint application was cleaned with a 11,000 rpm twisted wire rope wheel attachment. That worked very well on cleaning the metal down to the cast iron along with the chemicals to strip the paint. I have a lot of pictures of this whole project but I have to downsize the quality of the pictures to upload them. I have tried to paste them write in this thread as I have seen others do but I am unable- How do you do that?:confused: I will posting processes as they progress on here.

Brodie Brickey
03-26-2007, 9:24 AM
Brian that is an awesome project. For picture posting in line you need to upload your pictures elsewhere. Fotobucket or another free image share site. Then as you're writing the article, use the http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/editor/insertimage.gif, and put in the url (looks like this http://www.sawmillcreek.org/images/editor/insertimage.gif). The system will insert the image into the document.

Rex Guinn
03-26-2007, 10:19 AM
Brian;
There are many free ones out there google has a site for pics, yahoo has one, Textamerica has one. If you like I can give you acces to my site for all your pictures. Let me know if you want to use it.

Greg Koch
03-26-2007, 3:23 PM
Congrats on the project...

You can insert the pic within the reply if you don't just "post" after uploading the attachments, but use an option within the reply window. After uploading, just close the attachment window, but do not "Post" yet. Be sure your cursor is where you want the picture in your reply, then click on the little arrow to the right of the "paper clip" icon. It will show your uploaded attachment pics. Click on the one you want, and it should show up looking similar to [ ATTACH] the pic number [/ ATTACH]

61147

Continue with your text, and then insert another pic.

61148


Using this method, you do not need to use offsite storage, but can also post within your reply text.

I do like Photobucket (www.photobucket.com (http://www.photobucket.com/)) and use it a lot...but this is an optional method.

Brian Weick
03-27-2007, 10:05 AM
I am taking the pictures at 2976 X 2232 resolution for all the pictures of this lathe as some day it may be sold and I will be putting them on a CD to go with the lathe and all the information pertaining to the Oliver 20C lathe.
It will be a blown up version of a manual for the lathe- everything will be in the CD , Where the lathe came from originally,where it has been, what was made with it in the past and present, the original photos , the refurbishing process, the primer used, the paint, the coating applications, the resurfacing, Milling alterations, Lathe speeds,belt setup,VFD settings ~ everything that pertains to the lathe. So I didn't want to downgrade the pictures just to put them up here, so in the process of posting pictures I have to open the picture and grade it down to fit on this website. They just won't be the true picture taken-nothing I can do about that- I guess? Happy turning.:)
Brian

Brian Weick
03-30-2007, 10:48 AM
I am taking the pictures at 2976 X 2232 resolution for all the pictures of this lathe as some day it may be sold and I will be putting them on a CD to go with the lathe and all the information pertaining to the Oliver 20C lathe.
It will be a blown up version of a manual for the lathe- everything will be in the CD , Where the lathe came from originally,where it has been, what was made with it in the past and present, the original photos , the refurbishing process, the primer used, the paint, the coating applications, the resurfacing, Milling alterations, Lathe speeds,belt setup,VFD settings ~ everything that pertains to the lathe. So I didn't want to downgrade the pictures just to put them up here, so in the process of posting pictures I have to open the picture and grade it down to fit on this website. They just won't be the true picture taken-nothing I can do about that- I guess? Happy turning.:)
Brian

STEP 2: Yesterday I finished assembling the new fabricated drive housing for the Oliver 20C and installed it to check if my calculations where right ~ I had to constantly recheck my work in stages, it was a height issue for the whole unit ,the "the drive all" ~ everything was exactly the way it should have turned out. The old set up is the long housing and the old grey color .
Because of the height in the assembly and not to mention the 280lbs or so it weighs - I needed to install the transmission first , raised it up first with ratchet straps on either end enough to get the 6000 lb jack under it (I realize it's over kill but thats what I use to move this 4500 lb lathe around to refurbish it) then I jacked it up in the well, aligned the wholes on the vertical plate,adjust it for parallel level to the bed(vertically and horizontally) it cant be off or the 2 B -v belts wont seat right into the v grooves in the pulley, and then bolt the assembly to the side wall of the bed. I fabricated 3 ~ 1 1/4" 9/16" oval slots to adjust vertically for the belts. After that was fastened then I had to mount the motor to the bottom swing plate- that was the easiest process of the installing the whole drive housing assembly. I am waiting for the 3 step pulleys to come from my distributor ~ one of which is going to Fredric's Machinery to be bored out from 1-1/8" to 1 -1/4" for the in feed on the "Drive all" , once they come they have to be painted, Hunter green and then I can mount them. Talked with Allen (Fredric's Machinery) he is going to speak with Greg from buffalo bearings to get the best suitable bearing for the lathe. Once all is said and done I will have a very low speed end to the drive system with an incredible amount of torque to spin 24" x 8' diameter material between the centers. The high speed range will be up to 3500 rpm's. I was extremal happy with the way it turned out and it was an awful lot of work to retrofit this 1909 lathe but well worth it! :D

Brian Weick
03-30-2007, 10:53 AM
I have downgraded the pixles 512 x 384 and just take some snap shots for the Saw Mill Creek web site- Working great and no messing around with the quality of the pictures,

jeremy levine
03-30-2007, 10:57 AM
Great project. Can't wait to see more.

An aside where in NY are you ? ( just curious)

Brian Weick
03-30-2007, 11:00 AM
Great project. Can't wait to see more.

An aside where in NY are you ? ( just curious)

Comenly refered to as the snow belt area- Buffalo.NY - Great plave to live and work.

jeremy levine
03-30-2007, 2:26 PM
Comenly refered to as the snow belt area- Buffalo.NY - Great plave to live and work.

I must dispute that as a UB graduate.:D;)