Router Table Anxiety

[Michael Marcinelli]

Hey all,
Having major angst here. I've just completed a lot of research on a router, router top/fence/lift which will cost $850 (PC 7518 with a Bench Dog top/fence/lift). For pretty much the same amount of money I could get a Shop Fox 2HP shaper (or better yet, a 3HP shaper for only $150 more). Help!

My primary need is router bits and I know the limitations of a shaper is a max spindle speed of 10k which is slow for many smaller router bits. But for the same amount of money wouldn't you rather have a beefy cast iron 2HP shaper over a makeshift MDF router/router table to run those same router bits given all of the added power, sturdiness, flexibility to potentially use shaper cutters?

I'd be sacrificing spindle speed but gaining more power, structural sturdiness and flexibility to run cutters. What say you?

TIA,
Michael

[Roy McQuay]

I went through the same confusion 4 years ago. I ended up buying a Jet shaper. I still don't have a router table, so I still don't know if I should have gone that way. So far, I haven't needed a router table. I have never had a problem with router bits in my shaper, but I do prefer to use shaper bits when I have the right one. Boy, I bet that clears things up.:D

[Rick Christopherson]

Two hours ago I was using the smallest profile router bit I own (at least the kind with a bearing). It is a 1/8" round over bit. Every time I use this bit, it reminds me of the discussions about router bit speed, so half way through routing the job (30 lineal feet of curved skirt board in African Mahogany) I glanced down at the speed control, and discovered it was set to 3 out of 10. I certainly wouldn't have noticed the speed was this low based on the quality of the cut, because the quality was great.

Two days ago when I mentioned this topic, two people came forward and commented that they experimented with their smallest bits and found they worked better at higher speed. That's great, but what about the majority of router bits that are not the really tiny ones?

What these simple experiments didn't take into account is that they were using a tool prone to runout, and the best way to improve quality in the presence of runout is to increase the speed. So, did it realy prove that the bit needed to spin faster, or did it prove that they needed a better quality router? Don't Know.

[Don Selke]

Michael:

I have both a router table and a shaper. I use the shaper for raised panel doors and heavy duty profile cutting which require large cutters. The router table is a real work horse in my shop. I use it for about 75% of the time compared to the shaper. Router bits are relatively inexpensive compared to shaper cutters. If you do not have a machine for making profiles, I would recommend you start out with a router table. I made my own router table which is a lot like Norms with modifications. I use a Hitachi router and a router lift which I purchased locally from a woodworking supplier. My router table was made from left over material from a cabinet job. The router table was also made from material from stock except for the plastic laminate.
If you are going to be making raised panel doors on a regular basis, then go for the shaper. Hope this helps in your decision.

[Art Mann]

Hey all,
But for the same amount of money wouldn't you rather have a beefy cast iron 2HP shaper over a makeshift MDF router/router table to run those same router bits given all of the added power, sturdiness, flexibility to potentially use shaper cutters?

Michael

In a word -- no. I shaper is a very nice tool to have but it is not a substitute for a router. If your primary need is for a router, then that is what you should get. There are cheaper options than what you have priced that will do the job nicely, if you are worried about value.

[Joel Goodman]

Consider the homemade router table and fence option. It'll cut the cost way down. I could sketch up the fence design I made if it would help.

[Michael Marcinelli]

thanks all. joel, yes, that would help if you can send that along. i was thinking of buying a table in order to get a nice flat top with a miter rail and buying a fence ($130 each) but the greatest cost is the lift ($300). i figured that this was worth the cost so i don't have to take the router off the plate every time i want to change a bit.

any thoughts on what i can do to lessen cost while still maintaining a pro performance system would help. ie. if i build the top and cut in a miter slot rather than buy a top with a miter rail won't a raw slot fail over time?

michael

[J.R. Rutter]

You can change a bit quickly and easily without removing the router from the table. Get a router with some sort of collet lock so that you just need one wrench. If I were you, I would build your own table and fence. I put a miter track in my first table and only used it a handful of times over the last 5 years. I didn't bother when I built my next table. I don't know if a lift is worth it either. I use plunge routers with depth adjust knobs in my tables (Hitachi M12V and Bosch).

As for going with a shaper, as previously mentioned, they are the right tool for raised panels and production work, but you can certainly get by with a router.

[Doug Mason]

Make the most simple router table possible. Use it, find your likes/dislikes, then make a better one. At almost $1K for a router table--too much for too little.

[Ben Grunow]

Mike- I just bought the combo you are talking about (laminate top not cast iron) and it was more than $800...more like $1000 with tax included (bench dog cabinet as well). THat said, I needed it fast and I couldnt be happier. The lift makes things a breeze and the table is big enough and dust collection is almost complete in the cabinet. The router turns down to 10000 rpm so, for me (who makes the occasional door) it is perfect.

It is also more prtable than a shaper should I ever have to use it as I do take some tools to my job from time to time.

From store to routing in about 4 hours.

Ben

[Karl Stewart]

I picked up a cutoff counter top from from a kitchen/ bath business and mounted it in the extension of my table saw. It is double mdf [2"] and plenty sturdy. I have a 2.25 hp Porter Cable router and bought a simple knob adjustment for raising and lowering. It comes with an offset wrench and no need to install/ deinstall to change bits. I made a fence and added a miter slot for a coping sled and feather boards.

It's pretty much all new to me and so far so good. I've made frames, moulding and some decorative trim. When I want to do some dovetail drawers it's about 7 minutes to break down and set up. I haven't done any raised panels, but I have run 2.5" diameter bits; albeit 2 or 3 passes in hardwood.

Someday I'll be ready for a shaper, but there's a lot to learn first. Fortunately the Creek really helps my curve!

[Bob Malone]

For the price you are talking I put together a Jessem package with the
PC 7518, the only difference is I built a rock solid router table to gain some badly needed extra storage. I make raised panel doors and run a fair amount of moulding - but when needed I can pop in the small bits. The PC 7518 also is removed occasionaly when I have to out it into a router sled to level large tables and workbenches.
The more tasks a tool can perform, the more versatile it is, the better I like it - kind of like a LN block plane!
So unless you are a true professional production shop who has a deadline to meet and quantity to get out, is the shaper the most versatile tool? Quality cost and a good router is expensive, but it is also versatile!