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Paul Fitzgerald
03-25-2007, 3:20 PM
Hello fellow Creekers!

I started working on a Cedar Planter this weekend and just finished rough cutting all the peices. My newbieness has a few questions. :)

1. I bought some Western Red Cedar from my local wood supplier. This was my first purchase, and was wondering if I spent too much. They had some other kind of Cedar for $9-something a board foot, so I went with the Western Red Cedar S4S 1x8s for $3.84/linear foot. I bought 34 linear feet. With tax, it cost me $142.64. Seems high to me, even though they are dang nice boards, but I could be wrong since this is my first purchase. Is this typical, or should I find a new supplier?

2. There are some curves in the design. I don't have a band saw or oscilating spindal sander, but I do have a router, a jigsaw, and some scrap 1/4" MDF. I thought I'd go buy a pattern making bit, then jigsaw and sand a template from the MDF, and finally jigsaw and route the curves. Sound like a plan?

3. I need to glue up some material for the four sides of the planter. I just bought a biscuit jointer from Amazon, but I don't have a jointer yet. I thought I'd just clamp a straight-edge to the board and use a straight cutting bit in my router to get a nice straight edge that's ready for glue-up. Sound like a plan?

4. Before I rip some of the parts to their final dimension, I need to true up one edge. I thought I'd use the same technique I described in #3, but some of the stock is as narrow as 2". Any tips for using this technique on narrow stock?

5. I think I could leave it unfinished and let it weather to a nice grey, but my fiance really likes the color. I do too, so I'd like to put some kind of finish on it to keep it looking good. Any suggestions?

Thanks so much!

Paul

Ben Grunow
03-25-2007, 9:43 PM
Yes to 1,2 and 3 and I would use the factory edge of the MDF and the pattern bit to straighten the narrow strips, maybe with a scrap of the wood to hold up the MDF so it sits level while routing. Might make sense to cut a 12" strip to save as your "jointer" until one arrives.

Dont know about the finish too much but I have used Cabots Australian Timber Oil for red cedar with luck. Probably need to be applied spring and fall for a planter outside in the sun all day/year though.

Good Luck.

Ben

Brian Matzke
03-25-2007, 10:25 PM
#5 Check out www.penofin.com (http://www.penofin.com) I have had good luck with their ultra premium oil on outside cedar furniture.

Paul Fitzgerald
03-26-2007, 2:55 PM
Yes to 1,2 and 3 and I would use the factory edge of the MDF and the pattern bit to straighten the narrow strips, maybe with a scrap of the wood to hold up the MDF so it sits level while routing. Might make sense to cut a 12" strip to save as your "jointer" until one arrives.
About #1... are you saying "yes, that's typical" or "yes, find a new dealer" ?

#2 and #3... Ah, I didn't even think about using the pattern bit to "joint" the edges for glue-up, but that should be a bit easier than using a straightedge and a straight cutting bit. Thanks!


Dont know about the finish too much but I have used Cabots Australian Timber Oil for red cedar with luck. Probably need to be applied spring and fall for a planter outside in the sun all day/year though.

Good Luck.

Ben
The Australian Timber Oil looks pretty good, as does the Penofin Ultra Premium Oil Brian mentioned. Thanks for the info!

Paul

Ben Grunow
03-26-2007, 9:21 PM
Lumber prices vary (based on demand AFAIK) but thise prices are lower than mine.

Good luck

Ben

Joe Chritz
03-26-2007, 9:41 PM
The others answers are spot on. For #1 the big wood supplier around here L.L. Johnson is a little higher on Western Red Cedar but it isn't available s4s in 1x8's.

I would say that is about right for what you got, especially if it is really nice lumber since tight knot cedar often runs higher in cost.

Joe

Alex Shanku
03-26-2007, 10:09 PM
I have been building wooden gates for 10+ years and use WRC a lot.

I think that finishing it is a bad idea, as the main reason I use WRC is that I dont have to touch it ever again.

I weathers extremely well. I dont think any finish you apply to an exterior project like that will ever keep it looking like fresh-milled cedar does.