Zero Clearance for Delta Hybrid Saw?

[David Weaver]

Godo morning, everyone.

After examining my budget and needs (I make about two pieces a year and cut mostly sheet goods or 1 inch common hardwoods - and also do this at my house, so I need a saw shipped with liftgate service), I ordered a Delta 36-717 cabinet hybrid saw from Amazon, knowing it's not as good as a true cabinet saw, but it will likely be plenty to replace my cheap SC contractors saw.

Anyway, as this is an import saw, I'm expecting to screw around with it a little to get it tuned properly. One thing I found after I ordered it is that it's hard to find a phenolic zero clearance insert - maybe impossible? Because it's an import, there isn't as much info as there is for the unisaw (insert size, or other parts for that matter).

Does anyone know if there are inserts available, or what size the inserts are for the table?

If not, has anyone made zero clearance inserts by double-side taping the insert that comes with the saw to a phenolic blank, and then routing to the profile with a zero clearance router bit? That's probably what I'm going to resort to.

By the way, the thing that led me to this saw was that I can get it shipped to my (residential) door for under $1000 with an extra freud ATB blade (free), A Biesemeyer fence, and a delta tenon jig. The mixed reviews for the saw have been more favorable lately, so I'm willing to risk it. Has anyone else gotten one lately?

[Paul Douglass]

I didn't do it that way, but I have made plenty of them, cutting them on the bandsaw. All have worked fine. Your way would be even more accurate I would think. Congrats on the new saw. I'm sure you will be very happy with it.

[Al Willits]

Woodcraft has them, unfortnately they drilled the leveling screws so that the hold down screw can't be used, I ended up drill and tapping one of the bosse's that the insert rides on and using a 10/24 screw to use as a hold down.
The insert can be drill easily so I mounted the insert and used a 1/8" bit to drill though the insert and to mark where the tapped hole should be, takes a bit of measuring to located where to drill, but it goes pretty well.

Other than that it works pretty well...

Al

[David Weaver]

Al, if you don't mind me asking, how do you like the saw? Have you been able to get accurate cuts without too much screwing around?

How was the setup?

Thanks for the posting, by the way. I don't mind making the inserts if I have to, but if I don't, I'd rather spend my time working with wood than working on the tools.

[glenn bradley]

Most folks just make their own out of 1/2 BB ply or MDF. It's quick and easy using the original plate as a pattern. I consider ZCI's 'wear parts' and therefor don't spend $10 - $30 on them. That's just me.

Rough cut on band saw, double stick tape original to blank and use a pattern router bit to final shape, drill for levelers and retaining screw, 1/4 x 20 hex head set screws for levelers - $1, 8d nail cut off for a retaining pin - 2 cents, scrap for blank - more or less free. This allows a custom fit for whatever saw.

The narrow stop-dados allow me to set the blank into the throat for the saw blade cut. The whompin' dado in the 45* blank allows me to do the same when beveled at 45* on my particular saw. Obviously two are upside down and one is right side up in the pics.

[George Springer]

I use the ZCI's from Lee Valley on my 717. They work quite well. With my schedule it is easier to buy them than to make them. As for accurate cuts it is as accurate as any saw on the market. I bought mine from Amazon, and you will need lift gate service, preferably with a pallet jack. Make sure you examine the packaging before it is unloaded. The first on e I received had been dropped and the plywood crate showed some damage and the saw had significant damage. I refused shipment, contacted Amazon and they sent another the same day. Pay attention to the assembly process, making sure the side tables are level with the saw top and check the fence for alignment and you'll be fine.

[Joel Goodman]

FWW had a tip for a zero clearance insert. Put some tape over the top of the stock insert, turn it over, fill the recess with Bondo. When it's cured reinstall, clamp a piece of wood on top to keep the insert in place and raise the blade to cut. Haven't tried it but it looks ok. Please let us know if you do.Joel

[J. Greg Jones]

Inserts for this saw are not a problem to find. The 36-71x saws take the same insert as a left-tilt Unisaw. The Leecraft DL-1U is a good choice if you don't want to make your own. Amazon has them on sale (http://www.amazon.com/Leecraft-DL-1U-Clearance-Insert-Models/dp/B0000223VB) for $15.39 right now and they may also be eligible for the 20% discount.

As to the saw itself, I bought a 36-717 last summer and have been very pleased with it. I've not found anything I wanted to do that it could not handle with ease.

[David Weaver]

Thanks for the help, guys.

I just wish they would've offered a triple-chip blade for a freebie, as I already have a forrest WWII thin kerf, but you can't be picky when they throw it in for free, I guess.

I have a little bit of buyer's remorse for not springing for a powermatic, but it would've gotten me in a lot of trouble with the wife, and there's no reason to go there for a saw that would get used an hour a month max.