Trouble mounting Router

[Matt Benton]

I am just finishing putting my first shop together, and have a question regarding my router table. I bought the Freud 1700 because I wanted a router good for tables, which this seems to be. I've built a router table with 3/4" mdf, but even with the router fully raised, I can't change the bit from the top. Even if I go to a 1/2" top, I don't think an extra quarter inch is going to help.

I like the idea of not using an insert, but its looking like I'm going to need a top that is 3/8" or less.

Thanks for the help.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Matt,
I don't know if there are any manufacturers that offer a router that has this ability out of the box. Most folks use a 'router lift' mechanism (mfr: Jessem, Woodhaven, BenchDog, & WoodPeckers) to achieve the necessary amount of bit travel.

Going with an MDF top that is less than 3/4" thick is not recommended by me. Nor is having a large hole around the bit in the mounting plate.

One option that may work is to use aftermarket throat plates with removable inserts. Also, offset wrenches are available in many sizes. Check out Woodpeck.com.

-Jeff :)

[Brian Dormer]

I'll second what Jeff said - 1/2" isn't thick enough to prevent deformation over time.

MLCS offers a "collet extender" that may let you get the bit up high enough to change from the top.

[Charles McCracken]

Matt,

The FT1700VCE works best mounted to a 3/8" surface. This thickness is likely not strong enough for MDF, particle board, plywood, etc. so unless you are using something like steel plate for the table it is advisable to mount it to an insert plate.

[Hoa Dinh]

even with the router fully raised, I can't change the bit from the top.
Will a bent wrench help?

[Matt Benton]

Thanks for all the replies!

I actually laminated 2 layers of the mdf, with a hole in the bottom layer just large enough for the fixed base. I thought that might help maintain a level table.

So I take it using 3/8" for the top layer and 3/4" on the bottom still wouldn't suffice?

Thanks again!

[glenn bradley]

I believe you are going to be happiest going with a 1/4" aluminum plate. Per Charles' post you could go with a 3/8" phenolic or polycarb but I favor aluminum. The bit extenders are OK if you really don't want a plate.

The downside to a through-hole is that 'the size is the size' unless you build in the capability for a throat plate like the regular router plates use. This means if you have a 1" hole, that as your maximum router bit size. If you have a 3" hole you can run larger bits but then have no support near the bit when running smaller sizes.

[Matt Benton]

Thanks for the reply, Glenn.

I was noticing Pat Warner's setup on his website, and he mentions a 5/8" mdf top, "stressed and flattened". I assume that means he mounts the router, then sands the top flat.

Matt

[glenn bradley]

Your welcome; again just my thoughts you know? Knowing Pat I wouldn't be surprised if he mounted the router and then machined the top flat. He is a very precise kinda guy.

I picked up a Rockler plate for about $50. Having drilled a previous one myself and doing a 'just OK' job, I paid $20 to have a machine shop around the corner CNC it for me using the original router plate as a pattern. It came out much nicer but I'm not so very good at that sort of thing. I've seen other Creeker's shop-done machining and it looks every bit as good. Good luck with your efforts. Once you've got her going you are going to love the RT.

[David Gunn]

Jeffrey Makiel said:
Matt, I don't know if there are any manufacturers that offer a router that has this ability out of the box.

Actually Jeffrey, the Freud 1700 router does have an above the table bit change built into the router. You have to use a 3/8" or 1/4" plate though.