Plunge Routers

[Stephen Clem]

After completeing a couple of projects as a new woodworker, I have come to realize the importance and versatility of routers. Right now, I have been getting by well enough with a $89 Skil Router and router table combo. :o I can't swing larger bits (they don't even fit the 1/4" collet), so I'm now looking for a new router. Everywhere I reseearch, they say if you only have one router, get a plunge router. I don't understand this. I can't think of anything a plunge base can do that I can't accomplish with my depth setting on the fixed base. Is it just a convenience factor, or are there really tasks that can only be performed with a plunge base? I am thinking that I will go with the big 3 1/4 hp Milwalkee and build a large router table with a phenolic top! :D I also have a Harbor Freight trim router that made quick work of dados in bookshelf sides since they were too large for the table. So unless I am missing something, I think I don't need a plunge based router. Oh and can you help me choose between the two big boys - the fixed based Milwalkee or the Porter Cable? Has anyone used both? Which has better depth adjustments? Thanks!

Also, is there a way to contribute without using PayPal?

[Jim Becker]

My opinion is that your next stop should be a 12-13 amp (~"2-2.5hp")router with a multi-base kit. Mine is the Dewalt DW618, but most of the major brands offer very nice kits. This is, of course, assuming you are not going to dedicated it to a table. If you are specifically looking for a table system, "go large" with a 15 amp unit such as those you mention...

Personally, I've previously not been favorable of plungers in a table, but the latest generation that offer integral above-table height adjustment changes that and saves money on a lift. (I do use a lift system with a PC 7518 in my router table solution)
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[glenn bradley]

"Oh and can you help me choose between the two big boys - the fixed based Milwalkee or the Porter Cable?"

You will find plenty of fans of both here and from all I've read, you can't go wrong with either. I liked the height adjustment working upside down, the easy remove motor and the fact that I could remove the handles for table mounting on the Mil 5625 and so went that way.

As far as being able to do plunge cuts without a plunge, wouldn't be pretty. I have five routers and not one plunge. This pains me and causes me to re-think / re-design too often. A good plunge is high on my list of 'gotta haves'.

JMHO.

[Stephen Clem]

Thanks for the advice. I made a cradle that required many mortise and tenon joints. For the mortises, I used my fixed based router in a router table. I used a high fence with two lines drawn on it - I lowered the board down in the middle (closer to the right line) then moved it back to the right line and forward to the left line and pulled it up. It took some adjusting to get it right, but after I worked out the setup, it worked beautifully. I used the high fence as I mentioned, and on the other side I clamped a straight board so it held the piece in tight. I got this technique from watching the woodworking channel.

Jim, I am wanting a dedicated Table router. I just feel a lot more comfortable using the router in the table, so I try to figure out a way to use it whenever I can. I will probably build the a huge router table with a phenolic top so I won't have any size limitations!!! Oh yes, it will be sweet! :D :D :D

[Paul Johnstone]

I had a plunge router in my first router table. Although it really wasn't a true "plunge". It had a knob you could turn to lower the bit, but it was slow. Back then, a lot of fixed base routers required that you spin the motor for height adjustment, and I didn't want to deal with that on a router table.

A plunge router is good for cutting groves when you don't want to start at the edge of a board. Sometimes I do that as a decoration on a face frame.

It's also a must if you want to buy a Leigh FMT mortise jig or a woodrat.
Those might be something you want to get in the future. You might want to look over their lists of "compatible" routers.. I was milling over a woodrat, but since my plunger isn't compatible with their plunge bar, I was kind of bummed out.

If it were me, I'd get a big router for the router table first. Use your skil for handwork. Most of my routing work is done on the router table anyhow. I guess another option is to buy a dual base system, and mount one base in the table and keep the other base for handheld work.

[Dave Falkenstein]

...I lowered the board down in the middle (closer to the right line) then moved it back to the right line and forward to the left line and pulled it up...

The technique you describe works well enough, if the material is large enough to handle safely. There will be times when you want to cut a slot or a mortise in a narrow workpiece. In those cases, clamping the piece and using a plunge router mounted in a jig will be far safer.

The first time the workpiece jerks out of your hand and flies across the room, you will rethink the methodology.

A typical application for a plunge router is drilling perfectly spaced holes for shelf pins. The router can be positioned using a jig, and then plunged to cut precisely positioned, perpendicular holes. Yes, this operation can be done on a drill press, but if the workpiece is large, taking the router to the work is a superior method.

I find the need for both fixed-base and plunge routing in my own experence. A multi-base router, as suggested by Jim Becker, would be a wise inversment.

[Stephen Clem]

Ok, you all have convinced me. I think it would be wise to get the multi-based DeWalt that Jim describes. I would still be dedicated in the table using the fixed base; however, if I ever needed t plunge I could take it out and use the plunge base. Will the router motor come out from under the table leaving the fixed base attached? That would be nice. Also, will the Dewalt spin 3" diameter panel raisers? I won't use them much, I am a weekend warrior anyhow. But I would want to make sure the new router I buy can handle any bit I need. Finally, do you know if it can accept both 1/2" and 1/4" bits? I have accumulate quite a few 1/4" bits. Do the bits with 1/2" shanks perform better than the 1/4" shank bits? Less vibration? I notice when I use a bit with a guide bearing, say a roundover bit, if I push too hard against the bearing, it will move. It's hard not to do this when woorking with larger pieces sometimes.

[Jim Becker]

The Dewalt and similar 12-13 amp routers will spin the larger cutters, but you need to take smaller bites and feed slowly for best results. (You should still do that with the bigger router, too, for quality, but...you "can" take bigger bites, as it were, with the 15 amp routers)

[Dave Falkenstein]

...Will the router motor come out from under the table leaving the fixed base attached?...Finally, do you know if it can accept both 1/2" and 1/4" bits?...

Yes, you can mount the fixed base in the table and the motor can be removed for use outside the table.

Yes, the Dewalt kits incluse both 1/4" and 1/2" collets. The advantage of 1/2" bits is much more strength and stiffness in the shank. I buy only 1/2" bits, unless the bit is so small it only comes in 1/4".

Dewalt has a kit that include a D-handle base, in addition to the fixed and plunge bases. I personally like using a D-handle for some fixed base applications.

[Barry Anderson]

Stephen ... Don't overlook the Triton router. It get very good reviews everywhere that I've seen them. They are quite compact for the power and much easier to handle than my PC 3 1/2. You can get one of these @ 3 1/2 HP for about $200 ... It is a plunge router and it's setup for above the table depth adjust from the factory. This saves you the $200 - $300 for a router lift!! I just noticed Sommerfeld tools have them for $199.99. A pretty good price for a 3 1/2!!

Barry in WV