What's the best method/tools for Hardiplank siding?

[Bill Lewis]

We're breaking ground today! :) My new garage/barn project is starting this morning. The foundation guy stopped by last night and we went over the details. To satisfy the pic police, I'll post some when we have something more than bare ground. In the mean time, here is a link to the design (http://www.coolhouseplans.com/details.html?pid=chp-21987&FoundID=32&sid=chp1). It'll look just like this, but reversed.

Now the related question. As our house is sided with Hardi Plank I also have to use it on the garage. I'm thinking about doing it myself, as a means of saving some money. I've done lots of vinyl siding before, but never this stuff.

So what's the best method/tool/blades for cutting it, and what is the best method/tool for hanging it?

[Chris Mann]

The best way to cut it is with shears made specificly for the job. But you can also get blades for your circular saw, just beware of the dust. And you'll eat through the blades if you have to rip any of the siding.

You can get special clips to help set the exposure on the siding, makes it alot easier, especially if you're trying to do it yourself. A nail gun is ideal, but it can be hand nailed.

If you get the color plus, be sure to get the touch up kit.

[Todd Burch]

On the James Hardi web site, there is all form of how-to information and specifications for nails, nailing, cutting, installing and finishing, and what will and what won't void your warranty. Even so far as what brand circular saws are approved. The dust from cutting is carcinogen. There are diffferent methods for starting the first course (whether it's flat against the wall or if you put a strip down for bevvel it out like all the other courses. A proper blade costs about $50 and has 4 teeth (IIRC - maybe 6).

Todd

[Jay Bowdring]

So yeah as Todd said above there definately are instructions for installation, I worked for a lumber yard that sold it and I do beleive I have a few diff. materials on the installation of hardiplanks. I will look for you and if i have them I will let you know later on today. I could fax them to you or something, but you should definately check out the website to.
Good Luck

Jay Bowdring

[Michael Lutz]

I use a 10" Hitachi Hardi Blade, which is a diamond blade, on my SCMS. It does kick up dust. I would definately only use it outdoors with a dust mask. A carbide tipped saw will last through about 10-20 cuts before it is dull. The clippers would definately be less dusty, but I was unsure about freehanding the cuts with the clippers.

Thanks,

Mike

[Jim O'Dell]

I literally wore down a regular blade. Wondered why it wasn't cutting, looked at it, and nothing but nubs!:eek: Got a specific blade for it after that which lasted well. In fact it is still usuable.
As always, I screwed mine in. If you use the 12" width, you'll need to secure it top and bottom. The 8" you can just blind fasten. I used the 12". Used caulk in the screw holes and ran a wide putty knife over it, and it blended in the "wood grain" where you can't tell. Took a second application as the caulk shrunk when it dried.
It's been on almost 2 years. Took paint very well. I'm pleased with it. Jim.

[Greg Cole]

Hi Bill,
I replaced all siding on my house last year and installed the 8" Hardi Planks. I blind nailed mine as it was the 8"... I also bought a Hitachi Siding nailer, highly recommended to rent, borrow or buy if you can. Also buy the blades made for cutting cement fiberboard, 6 tooth carbide tips... I went through 4 or 5 doing about 20 squares. Then again I killed 2 trying to cut 3-4 pieces at a time.... not recommended :cool: but at least blades are pretty cheap.
I also made a couple of installation jigs to get the overlap right (simply a scrap of plywood with a legde fastened to the bottom, and one of these I attached to an 8' 2X4 so my helper coule hold planks in place while I was on the ladder on the 2nd story...
The instructions say to leave minimum of 1/8" gap on all butt joints, but you can get by with a little less but the caulk will not hold as well with tighter. I used 50 year caulking ("ALEX PLUS" I think).
Another tip might be to adjust the overlap to make sure the reveal is consistent, if not you will most likely have an oddball overlap on the last course (or as I did... moved the TS into the drive way and ripped the top course to fit and keep the reveal consistent. Not recommended as it is a DUST CLOUD of epic proportions & hard on any blade with more than a few teeth).
I think I have the installation instructions in a PDF File if you want, PM me.
I like the look, and it pretty easy to work with.

$0.02 given, although I can't even seem to keep these posts short. :confused:

[Bryan Parlor]

I did my house in Shingle side (individual shingles) but I did use the planks as starter strips.

To avoid the dust I just used a utility knife to define a line then snapped the shingles holding them in a portable workbench. I cleaned up the edge using the utility knife. The planks were snapped by putting a 2x underneath at the line and levering.

I did some fancy cuts at inside corners by the same method. I used a hacksaw with a diamond blade to do the short 90 deg cuts and snapped the long angular pieces. Sometimes the strip removed was too small to snap and then I used a pair of pliers to break it off in short pieces and then cleaned up with the utility knife.

I nailed all the pieces on using galvanized nails (as per the instructions on the Hardie website) but I used the plated nails not the dipped ones as if there is an error getting the dipped nails out destroys the shingle. The plated ones can be pulled out with a small crowbar behind the shingle.

I used starter holes in the shingles as that allowed me to hold the shingle and nail at the same time. Its a good idea to do this on the planks as well especially if nailing close to the edge.

The planks are quite heavy and two people are needed for long runs.

Bryan

[Bryan Parlor]

I found a picture of the back of the house taken while I was putting the shingles on.

I found it took a long time to apply the shingles largly due to the angled roof and the need to cut a lot of tiles.

I can provide more details if anyone is interested.

Bryan

[Ryan Myers]

I have never worked with the siding. Lately I have installed quite a bit of hardi-backer board for various tile work. Instructions suggested scoring knife (carbide tipped) or saw with carbide blade. I found the saw with carbide blade has no problem cutting. But it does kick up the dust which is not real good for ya. So the shears are probably the best method unless you want to cut some years off your life.

[Bill Lewis]

Wow, Thanks for the replies. good tips all. Still a few more questions though. I did go to the website and D/L the instruction sheet. I have also been out to amazon to look at the available tools. I found a couple of siding gages, and electric shears. Not a heck of a lot of information on them (I sure miss Tool Crib of the North for this stuff). Anyone have direct experience with some of these gages? Not a big deal, I suspect that most of them function pretty much the same. Also, FHB also has a home built gage in their Tech tips this month.

I can probably do most of the cutting with a Hardi-blade, not sure I can justify the cost of the electric shears. Maybe so if I decide to sell them after I am done. Are they worth it?

One question regarding pneumatic nailers. Does it have to be a "siding" nailer or will a roofing nailer work just as well? Or conversly, can you use a siding nailer to do roofing too?

BTW, footings were dug, inspected, and poured on Friday. Forms are going up today, and I suspect the walls will be poured by Wednesday at the latest. I'll try to post some pics later on.

[jeremy levine]

I have seen the dust cloud first hand at my home, it is for real. If you still use a blade keep all you other power tools away/covered this dust will kill them. Also keep your windows closed.

A contrator friend of mine swears by the shear, no dust..

We got our siding pre-painted ....looks great after two years.

[Dave Bonde]

I can answer one of your questions - no a siding nailer can not be used for shingles. I am in the process of siding my house with hardi siding. I also use the diamond blades by Hitachi and I bought a siding nailer. The nails are smaller in both diameter and head size than a shingle nail. I have heard of pepople using a roofing nailer to apply siding but I opted for the siding nailer. I would highly recommend using a pneumatic nailer to apply the siding, it will make the job much faster and easier, as for the shear I don't think it would be worth it for me - but the nailer sure was. Dave

[Kevin Murdock]

It does not have to be a siding nailer.

You can use roofing nails, but only if you are blind nailing. See the following link from the James Hardie website:
http://www.jameshardie.com/homeowner/installation/hardiplank_installation.php

BLIND NAILING:
11 ga. roofing nail (0.121" shank x 0.371" HD x 1-1/4" long)
Corrosion Resistant Nails (galvanized or stainless steel)

Hope this helps,
/Kevin

[Michael Lutz]

I am using a framing nailer to blind nail the siding. I am also using it to attach sheathing and repair any framing that needs to be fixed. I just change out the nails for the different applications. It is a Senco full head stick framing nailer. I bought SS siding nails from McFeely's. So you don't have to buy a special siding nailer.

Thanks,

Mike

[Greg Cole]

The main reason for not using a roofing nailer for this style of siding boils down to what nails are available in what material or anti corrosive coating. The electro-galvanized (goldish color) for roofing are not recommended for the siding or by the siding manufacturer... IMO the roofing style nail "works" with lap plank siding but the inferior galvanization of the electro galvanized nails would make me worry about it over the 50 year life of the siding. Most asphalt roofs don't live 1/2 that long or a little more at best. The shank diameter of a roofing nail doesn't destroy shingles or anything, I tried a couple with my roofing nailer versus the siding nailer I "had" to have just for fun... other than the nail materials or galvanizing, I suspect either fastener will hold'em to the house.
I did order s/s nails for my house, not cheap but with 50 years siding it's worth it for a piece of mind. I stepped up from hot dipped to galvanized since I'd have had to order them anyway. Few BORG's carry anything but roofing nails, and heaven forbid you ask for a different length... you might confuse someone into knowing nails are available in a couple different configurations, materials etc etc etc ...

[Ron Brese]

I put this material on my garden house and main house. The cement fibreboard saw blades made by various suppliers work well. I actually made a jig for square cuts and angled cuts for my roof pitch. Where it was a but fit into my corner boards I just scored it on both sides with a cheap back saw and broke it. This was faster and much less dusty. The product I used was 6.25 wide.

Ron Brese

[Bill Lewis]

Greg, I too had concerns about whether roofing nails would have the adequate corrsion protection. I agree, I don't think they do, at least not according to what I have seen. So this begs the qestion, can a siding nailer be used for roofing?

The garage walls are turing out to be higher than I imagined to allow proper grading and drainage, consequently the walls are going to be much higher than I anticipated. So I am still up in the air (pun intended)about taking on the siding for this project. On the other hand, I am probably going to have to pay a bit more than was originally estimated for the foundation (unless I wanted to be a prick about it) so the budget is already taking an anticipated strain.

As for getting the pre-painted siding, unfortunately I don't think that is going to be an option. It wasn't available when we built our house, and unless they do a color match custom order, It looks like I will be painting it. However, I am planning on buying an airless sprayer and do this as well. Maybe I can do my own pre-paint.

I just checked the website and I couldn't actully find their colorchart, so the colorplus may still be an option.

BTW, we are using 8 1/4" beaded cedermill, so it will be blind nailed.

[Michael Lutz]

The siding nailer shoots too thin of a gauge nail to be used for roofing. You could use a framing nailer though which may be of more use for you than a siding nailer.

Mike

[Bill Lewis]

Thanks Michael, I have a framing nailer, but it's a clipped head, which Hardie recomends against using. So I'm looking to buy another nailer either way that I go. At least a full head framing nailer would have more use to me than a siding nailer. I'm like Alton Brown of "Good Eats" I like to avoid pricey uni-tasker's. Of course I can always sell it when the job is done.

[Greg Cole]

I wouldn't think the siding nails would be good for on the roof, smaller shank & head diameter = less holding power. Then again I live all of about 100 miles east of "Tornado Alley", so more holding power is a MUST. I re-roofed last year and used a nail every 4-6" per advice from an old friend that somehow spends 5 days a week doing this body busting work for a living (BTW, she can put me to shame on the roof & I think I am not one to drag my feet!). Gusty days here are gale force winds to most of the world.
Anywho, if I was going to stay in this house I am in now for the long haul I would have most likely taken the extra step up to stainless nails. With 50 year siding & caulking... it's not toooooo much more $$$. But I am banking on heading back to little old Vermont within the next 12 months.... HOME SWEET HOME is calling my name!
BTW, the fiber cement siding primes & paints like a dream.

Greg