MM 16 mobile base

[rodney mitchell]

I have never been overly fond of the johnson bar for moving the saw, so when I found a good deal on an HTC base that looked like it would work on the saw, I bought it. My question is, how in the world do I get it under this heavy sucker?? Anyone have any tricks?

Thanks....

Rodney

[Mark Hubler]

1. Get some blocks that are taller than the edge of the HTC base. Tilt the saw one direction and place a block underneath it (you can use a series of blocks say 6 -1/2" blocks, instead of 1- 1 1/2" block, to make it easier). Tilt the saw the other direction, install the block, now the saw is a couple of inches off the floor. Place another set of blocks inside the HTC base, so that the top of these blocks is the same height as the blocks under the saw. Place the HTC base next to the long section of the saw, clamp the base to the blocks under the saw so nothing moves. Carefully "walk" the saw on to the base, by move the saw side to side (a small diameter piece of bar stock, place under the saw, will make it easier to slide sideways). Tilt the saw back and forth and remove the blocks in the base. Done! This would be best done with two people.

2. Rent/buy an engine hoist and lift the saw into place.

3. A chain hoist from a strong roof beam would be another choice

[Gary Cioni]

I just went through this last week with my MM16. I purchased a HTC mobile base on clearance for $35.00 with shipping to replace the mobility kit that came with my saw. It is so much better than the Johnson Bar kit that comes with the saw which is pretty much useless on uneven floors. How I got the saw on the HTC was to cut some 1/2" plywood blocking and gently lift the saw with a pry bar one side at a time inserting the 1/2" blocking on either side until the saw was higher than the HTC base. Keep the front blocking set back about 5 inches to allow the base to slide under the front of the saw. Than I cut 2- 1/2" plywood boards to approximately 5"x9" measured the distance from the floor to the center of the holes in the base of the MM16 for the factory wheel kit drilled a 1/2" hole in each in each board at the measured location cut some 1/8" stock to 2"x2" drilled a 1/2" hole in the center of each and than bolted the plywood boards with the smaller 2"x2" boards as shims between the saw base and the new support boards. Than I lifted the saw slightly and removed the 1/2" plywood blocking in the rear only so that the back of the saw was being supported by the new plywood legs that were bolted into the saw. Than I slid the mobile base under the saw until it hit the front blocking. Lifted the saw and re blocked the front of the saw so that the blocking in front was now inside the frame of the HTC Base than slide the base all the way to the back of the saw. Than with the help of my son I was able to lift the front of the saw one corner at a time and lower the front of the saw onto the base. Than lift the rear of the saw and unbolt the plywood legs one at a time. The 1/8" shims allow the base to get all the way back so the saw can clear the HTC frame when lowering without getting caught on the frame. It sounds kind of complicated but was actually pretty easy to do. If you have any questions send me an email and I will try to make sense of it for you.

[Ron Bible]

I recently bought an mm20. I built a mobile base....went to tractor supply, bought 4 5" (400 # capacity) casters (2 rigid, 2 swivel), built it with sturdy dried rough sawn 2x6. Of course I planed and jointed the sides of the 2x6.
Much better than anything (I think) on the market. I'll post some pics later. Moves VERY easy. They don't have brakes, but that's no problem. A scotch works fine.
If you have a neighbor w/a tractor w/front end loader, that's what I used to lift mine to set it on my dolly. There are two holes on the top of the machine to thread a chain or heavy strap through. I double wrapped it for strength and used a chain as a backup. (didn't want to drop that thing).
Happy sawin.........Ron

[Jeff Wright]

For those not wanting to increase the footprint of their saw, try using the zambus casters as shown in the MM20 saw in attached photo. The casters are industrial duty, and come with a threaded bolt that fits both the top of the caster and the pre-threaded bolt leveling hole in the bottom of the bandsaw. Installation took only 20 minutes and the casters are a joy to use. Saw glides over the floor, yet is stable when the leveling knobs are lowered. Casters are not cheap . . . about $35 each plus shipping. Available from www.zambus.com (http://www.zambus.com). Same model number for both the MM16 and 20. I used the 300 series with the single bolt mounting option instead of the four-bolt one.

[rodney mitchell]

Hey, thanks for the great replies, this place is a wealth of information. I am a member at a lot of message boards and have never felt compelled to send in a contribution, BUT I value this site tremendously and I will be contributing today. Thanks again.

Rodney