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Lt. David Wheeler
03-21-2007, 6:00 PM
Hello, I am planning on building an oak or ash trestle table as shown in the popular mechanics recently. The plans are not very descriptive and my question is:

1. I am going to use several 5" wide boards for the tabletop. The plans show cleats underneath this tabletop with oversize pilot holes for expansion. Do you edge glue this tabletop or not? If so when do you add the cleats? I'm thinking just cleats, with no glue anywhere on the tabletop assembly.

2. What type of finish would be appropriate for the tabletop?

Thank you for any help you can provide. Plans are available for this table at http://www.popularmechanics.com/home_journal/woodworking/4209514.html

Thanks again.

Todd Burch
03-21-2007, 6:07 PM
I would definitely edge glue the top together. If you just tongue & groove them, there WILL be a gap, and that's where the dirt and food and drink go. If you just lay them up and butt the edges togethers, I'm sure you'll have a very nice looking picnic table.

When I do trestle tables, I have the base assembly, the top, and the "joining boards." The joining boards attach to the top of the base assembly. Picture one end of the base assembly to be the letter "H" on it's side. The joining board screws to the top of the base and extends wider on all sides. This gives a lip that I then drill (in the middle) and slot (at the ends), and through which I will use screws to attach the joining board to the underside of teh top. Works great. No muss, no fuss, and can be taken apart if needed for delivery or storage.

Todd

Todd Burch
03-21-2007, 6:09 PM
As far as a finish - that depends. Are you going for good looking, low maintenance, or bullet proof?

Dan Oliphant
03-21-2007, 6:22 PM
David, I might add this. When you select the boards to be used on the top, look at the end grain, have the first board with the growth rings pointing up (or down) then the next board will be the opposite direction and so on. This method will give you a very stable top that will not cup over time.
I would also agree that the top needs to be edge glued, with or without biscuits, long grain to long grain gluing is very strong.

Lt. David Wheeler
03-21-2007, 9:08 PM
Thank you both for the advice. I'm going to edge glue the table top boards and then cleat as per the plan specs. The plans show the tabletop resting on the base assembly, with a dowel on each end that keeps the top from sliding off- and also allows for disassembly. As far as the finish- The simpler the better, and fairly durable. I think my main concern was wood expansion and contraction ruining the finish. Any ideas? Thank you again.

Todd Burch
03-21-2007, 11:25 PM
A simple, easy & inexpensive finish is Pratt & Lambert 38 varnish. 3 coats. Foam brush, 3" wide. Buy several and toss them when they start fraying.
Sand the 2nd coat w/220 FreCut and #0000 steel wool the 3rd coat with paste wax.

Don't even, DON'T EVEN, tell me if you plan on using Minwax stains. Just keep it to yourself. :)

Todd

EDIT: seriously consider filling the pores on that oak or ash - two very large pored woods.