Large Skew **Pic Posted**

[Brian McInturff]

A couple of years ago I purchased some used Turning tools. Inn the group were 2 Robert Sorby Skews. Looking on their website the largest skew it shows they make is 1 1/4". Both of the ones I have are 2". One is a standard skew and the other what I guess is a traditional skew. I'm almost afraid to put them on the grinder as I'm afraid they will dip out towards the corners. These are probably carbon steel and not HSS as they are older with the orange shellac finish on the handles and just have that look. So my questions are, what are the largest ones you've seen and how would you go about sharpening them.
Thanks, Brian
http://stampclassics.com/images/tools/Skews/IMG_0329.JPG
http://stampclassics.com/images/tools/Skews/IMG_0330.JPG

[Bob Opsitos]

Largest I have is the lacer skew, IIRC that's 1-3/8".

2" wide? Sure it's not a small sword instead of a skew? ;) Must look like a wakazashi :D

Sharpen mine on water stone and then power hone on MDF wheel charged with compound. I'm rather neverous about hitting is with the grinder; worried I'll mess the curved edge up too much.

Bob

[Kim Ford]

I just went through this with my Oliver 2255. The first thing I would do is find out if the motor is wired for 220v or just 440v. It will usually be right on the motor tag. If it can go 220v then I strongly suggest a Varible Frequency Drive. That allows the the ability to have full torque and go from 0 to the full speed of the gearing you are set at. You don't need to worry about the starter or anything else and startup can be slow and you have reverse.

As nice as this lathe appears, if the motor was not 220v capable, I would consider getting a step up transformer before the VFD. Changing out the motor doesn't look as if it is possible and rewiring is more than a challange. Also make sure the bearings are true.

The folks at www.DrivesWarehouse (http://www.DrivesWarehouse) really know their stuff and could walk you through whatever you need.

Enjoy!!!

[TYLER WOOD]

What the!!!! Kim's in left field I think.

Not sure on the skew question, just wondered what a variable drive has to do with the lecth of a skew!!!

[Neal Addy]

I believe Kim intended this reply for the Yates lathe post.

Either that or Brian owns a motorized skew. I'd pay to see that. :D:cool:

BTW, welcome to the forum, Kim!

[Brian McInturff]

If I'm bipolar would that make it single phase 110 or single phase 220. Multiple personalities may make it 3 phase.:D So Brian ask himself if dinner is ready and myself replies to me no stupid:eek: .
Brian
Well now I'm confused!?

[Glenn Hodges]

Brian, I have the largest one P&N sells. It is probably the l 3/8" size, not sure. I use it all the time. I would use the 2 inch size if I had it.

[Brian McInturff]

Glenn,
I've used both. They are hefty and just have a great feel. I've even used them on some bowls the clean up the outside, not that I recommend it to anyone else to try. I'm concerned though about sharpening them. Right now I've been honing the edge and that's it. I know time is coming to put a new edge on them. Increase the length of the bevel. And I'm not sure how to go about it. Even my waterstones aren't wide enough. I've got a Tormek and haven't looked at doing them on it yet. I usually only use it to cleanup with after the grinder and to put a good polished hined bevel on with. Not for removing any mass. I guess I could breakdown and purchase the skew jig for the Wolverine.
Brian

[Paul Andrews]

Brian,

If you are sure they are carbon steel, I am not sure I would put them on a grinder. If you were to blue the steel you might well ruin the tool. Your Tormeck might take a bit longer but you will still have a usable tool when you finish.

[Chris Barton]

Hi Brian,

My big Alan Lacer signature skew is at least 2" wide but, it is HSS and I sharpen it on my Tormek. I think your Tormek would be the perfect thing for sharpening carbon steel. Alan Lacer demonstrates sharpening carbon steel skews in his video. I bet they are a pleasure to use if a bit of a PITA to sharpen.

[Brian McInturff]

Paul,
I guess I better look at compare them to my other HSS skews to be sure.

Chris,
if you can sharpen a 2" on yours and not get any dips at the corners then I'll give it a try when the time comes. Thanks for letting me know that.

I guess I'll go take a pic and post. Maybe someone can give me an idea of age. I was automatically thinking Carbon based on how old I thought they were. I guess I better be careful doing that because 30-40 years ago was late 60's early seventies. Yikes! Now I feel old!

Brian

[George Tokarev]

That a single bevel on that chisel? If so, I think you'll discover how wonderful a traditional spindle tool can be compared to the finicky skew. Break the sharp edges of the blade with some sandpaper.

Carbon steel will abrade faster than alloy, so stones are probably all you need to keep them in top shape. I use a diamond for HSS alloy, and it will also get carbon in great shape. Hold the tool and move the stone.

[Rick Wize]

Chris,

Are you sharpening the skew like Lacer (curved) on the Tormek? If so, I would be interested on how you accomplish it. I have a 1 5/8 Lacer curved skew and can only get it done on a slow speed grinder, I just cannot get a single bevel on the Tormek free hand - the skew is too big.

Rick

[Brian McInturff]

George,
They are both beveled on each side. Brian

[George Tokarev]

Shame, Brian. But not beyond hope. A straight chisel is more forgiving than a skew at many tasks. The single longer bevel makes it less likely to kick back from overfeeding, and also gives better clearance for making beads close together.