Pin nailer question

[Paul Johnstone]

I'm about to buy a pin nailer. I see that Cadex has one now that shoots 2" headless pins as well as 2" slight headed pins.. This deluxe model is pretty expensive, around $300.

My question is this: Would these 2" slight headed fasteners be strong enough to put up casing around a window? If so, I'd buy it in a heartbeat, because I need to trim out all the windows on our house. If they aren't strong enough, I'll just buy the Cadex gun with the shorter fasteners and save a little money (and use 18 guage brads on the window trim).

[Paul Johnstone]

If anyone has any other justification for getting 2" capacity, I'd be interested.. I'm assuming the longer fasteners have more holding power, but I'm not sure how much more.

[Ted Miller]

Paul, I just rec'd the Grex pinner yesterday and used it last night. It does hold good and no head to deal with. For outside casing I would not use headless, but that is just me, inside trim out I would no prblem...

[Greg Robbins]

I have a Cadex 23g pin nailer and I don't consider is strong enough for trim work. Very small nails. I use it only for small mouldings that are glue and can't be clamped. I use an 16g nailer for trim. I would hesitate on the 18g. Most of the guys I know, use 15g for trim.

[Jim Becker]

I believe that the current issue of Fine Homebuilding has a review article on pinners. The Nickel got the top nod if my memory serves...I'm not near the magazine at present.

[Peter Pedisich]

18g for inside of casing and 16g (or 15g) for outside of casing has been working well for me, my 23g PC would not hold radiata pine casing in place with the humidity swings in the northeast.

But keep in mind the PC only shoots 1" pins, maybe the 2" give a lot more holding power, I don't know.

[Paul Johnstone]

Yeah, I forgot to mention that I am doing inside casing.

I am getting the feeling that my fantasy of using this for casing just isn't going to work, even with 2" slight headed brads.. The fasteners are probably just too thin.

Although I guess it would work well for nailing the miters closed. I plan to assemble the square of molding on the work bench and then nail the "frame" around the window, since my trim skills aren't the greatest.

Looks like I won't be able to justify the extra money for the 2" fastener model. Thanks for everyone's feedback.

[Ted Shrader]

Paul -

Don't think the 2" pins would be sufficient to keep the molding in place if they made it all the way in. Would worry about the 23ga pins changing direction when they meet minor resistance.

Pin nailers are great for small parts they can't be clamped while the glue dries or small trim pieces.

Stick with a finish nailer and filler.

Regards,
Ted

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Ted. Unless you're gluing that casing, I don't think that a pinner is the right solution. 16 gage brads or a 15 gage nailer would be my choice for shots "in the meat" of the boards and an 18 guage brad gun for the narrow areas. Careful placement of fasteners will at least reduce the amount of filler required...and that should likely be a colored stick just before the final clear coats so you can match (actually a hair darker) than the color of the wood at that point with most of the finish applied.

[Tim Reagan]

Just read the FHB article last night, and they could think of a time when a pin longer than 1 3/8 would be needed. I found a Grex p630 (to 1 3/16) new for about $130.

[Per Swenson]

Just an opinion.

Buy the pinner anyway.

It is the most used gun in my arsenal.

But I glue everything.

Casing's, well there are two kinds.

Stained and paint grade.

Paint grade, we don't care.

Stained, I will pin and glue the jamb reveal side (with clamps)

while using any of the other three on the stud side depending on style and thickness of

casing.

It all depends on how far I need to go to both hide the nails

and secure the trim.

Our high end bar work we strive for no visable nail holes and will go to

any length for that effect.

Running tract condo's we let the painter worry about it.:rolleyes:

Per

[Paul Johnstone]

Just read the FHB article last night, and they could think of a time when a pin longer than 1 3/8 would be needed. I found a Grex p630 (to 1 3/16) new for about $130.

What was their example of when a pin longer than 1 3/8 would be needed?
Or did you mean to say they couldn't think of a time when a longer pin was needed?

[Paul Johnstone]

Just an opinion.

Buy the pinner anyway.

It is the most used gun in my arsenal.

But I glue everything.

Casing's, well there are two kinds.

[cut]

Stained, I will pin and glue the jamb reveal side (with clamps)

Per

Interesting Per.. I never thought of gluing the casings on. I have some doorways that are wrapped only in drywall that I was going upgrade. I think I will try that idea.

[Jack Erickson]

When nailing your trim you should use a 15 or 16 gauge nailer. Also one nail should go into window jamb, and the other will hit your framing. I believe you will have trouble getting a nice job making your frames on the bench and then trying to install them on your windows. After you have done one or two it will not be as difficult as you think. Good Luck :)

[Tim Reagan]

They did not see a need for pin lenght over 1 3/8, is what I meant.:confused: