Tite-Mark v. Veritas Wheel Marking Gauge

[Alex Yeilding]

I have seen comments from several whose opinions I trust giving rave reviews to the Tite-Mark (http://glen-drake.com/index.html). But I see Veritas (who in my experience makes well-thought-out tools that work well) offering a functionally similar product (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=49133&cat=1,42936) (version with micro-adjust) at less than 1/2 the price. Does anyone here have experience with both the products, and if so, can you address what I would be giving up if I chose to save the extra $35-$40?

Am I right that at the end of the day, both will provide a similar line accurately distanced from the edge, and that the differences are in ease of use, flexibility, durability, and "feel"?

Some differences I can read about:
Tite-Mark is probably heavier (solid brass versus aluminum body). Preference here seems subjective.
Tite-Mark has some flexibility I don't care about: scoring blade and extensions.
Tite-Mark has mortise blades. I'm surprised Veritas hasn't offered these. Are these gauges similar enough that the Tite-Mark mortise cutter would fit on the Veritas gauge? I assume not.

What about ease of use or other aspects I haven't considered?

[Alice Frampton]

At the bottom of this page (http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/toolreviews.html) you'll find a link to a review I did that may help answer a few questions. I believe the TOS forbids me from linking directly because it's on another forum. :rolleyes:

Cheers, Alf

[Mark Singer]

Alex,
For fine work this is my favorite...It is from LV and pretty inexpensive...It has a whell also, but the break off little blades really work great. The LV gauge that you show is also good....I prefer the little guy:rolleyes:
http://www.leevalley.com/images/item/woodworking/markmeasure/05n6501s1.jpg

[Jerry Palmer]

While I've not used the Titemark to be able to compare to the LV, the one similarly functional to the Titemark, I do have the LV with both the built in ruler and the micro-adjust. If I were to buy another today I would save the extra money of the micro-adjust feature. For me, it is just another step in locking the gauge to a setting and I've yet to use the micro-adjust feature. Since I measure the setting for the gauge onto a piece of the stock to be marked, then set the cutter on the mark and slide the fence to the edge of the piece and lock it down, the micro is of no use to me. I've also got the multi-purpose gauge Mark showed (I sorta like gauges and other layout tools, no I DO NOT have a layout tool Jones;) ) and it is handy and inexpensive, but I like the other one from LV better.

[Mike Henderson]

I have a couple of the LV gauges and like them. The graduations on the beam are useless - you'll never use them. I do use the micro-adjust but you could do without it. When I'm setting the gauge, I set it close to what I want and then do the final adjustments with the micro-adjust (even if I'm taking a measurement off a scale). You certainly don't need it, as Jerry points out, but I find it a nice feature.

Mike

[Hank Knight]

Alex,

I have both the Tite Mark and the Lee Valley (standard gauge, not the micro adjust one). Alice Frampton's review cited above is dead-on. I love the feel and the engineering of the Tite Mark; but, when all's said and done, it doesn't do the job any better than the Lee Valley gauge. The mortise gauge feature of the Tite Mark is nice, but it's a little fiddly to set up, so I just use a dedicated moritse gauge. I also like the micro adjust feature and use it all the time. Neither of my gauges has a graduated scale on the beam. I would rarely, if ever, use a scale so I would not pay extra for it. If you decide to spend the extra bucks for the Tite Mark, you will love it. But you wouldn't be disappointed with the Veritas gauge either.

Hank

[Andrew Williams]

Alex,
For fine work this is my favorite...It is from LV and pretty inexpensive...It has a whell also, but the break off little blades really work great. The LV gauge that you show is also good....I prefer the little guy:rolleyes:


I have this little one too and use it frequently in "knife mode". I found that the wheel didn't work well. Using it in one direction just tightened the holding screw and caused the wheel to "brake". Using it in the other direction caused the screw to loosen, making the wheel track wide of the intended mark. I used to keep it in my apron pocket until it fell out one day and landed on the wheel. No more wheel...

It works very well in knife mode for across-grain marking like dovetails. I would use a different gauge for with-grain marking.

[Jerry Palmer]

You really don't want the wheel to spin, so it is best to use it in the direction that causes its "brake" to be applied.

[Warren Allen]

And find 2 gauges invaluable for marking out mortises amongst other techniques.

I've been learning the make through tenon mortises and my biggest challenge is accurate layout.

I use the LV to mark the length of the tenon and the TM to mark the width of tenon and mortise locations. I was sold by the mortise gauges on the TM and really like the way they work.

Micro adjust is nice and as my eyes weaken it's easier to sneak up on a mark and easily lock it in. Sure you can do it otherwise but I'm learning that the less frustration I have with tolerances the more I can concentrate on technique and know my layout is not the problem.

HTH

WarrenA

[Alex Yeilding]

Thanks, Alf. That was just the kind of info I was looking for. In fact, I think I had run across your reveiw a year or ago. Guess I need to brush up on my DAGS skills! :)

[Alex Yeilding]

Thanks, Mark. I think I will try this one. If I later decide to get the veritas micro-adjust or tite-mark, I'm sure this little guy would still get some use, as will my current plain vanilla pin-type gauge.

[Alex Yeilding]

Thanks, all, for the replies.

Always a valuable resource here.

Whoops! Time to change from member to contributor status!

[Dave Malen]

that the tm has a recess so the wheel can be stored safely.
Dave

[Andy Howard]

that the tm has a recess so the wheel can be stored safely.
Dave

The more expensive Veritas also has this recess, and it is most helpful in being able to store or stand the unit up while not in use.

Andy

[Mike Henderson]

One additional comment - If you're going to use the gauges for marking dovetails on drawers, it's nice to have two. You can set one for the thickness of the drawer side material, and one for the length of the blind dovetails. You don't have to keep reseting your gauge as you do if you only have one.

Mike

[Rich Stevens]

My reply might not be what you originally asked - but I think its worth sharing anyhow...

I have a Bridge City Toolworks MG-3 marking gauge and the original Tite Mark with micro adjuster. The MG-3, as with all BCTW items is flawlessly made and performs well. What I like about it? First - the cutting wheel - it is fixed and it is SHARP. I have now used for nearly 6 years and it still holds a decent edge. Its doesn't shear through wood fibres as well as it used to but it still scores a really clean line. Second - its hefty and well balanced. The imperial graduations on the stem are useless and its not worth bothering with. What could be improved on it? Only one thing - it needs a micro adjuster of some kind.

The absence of the micro adjuster is the reason why I went with the Tite Mark gauge - also beautifully crafted with notable weight and balance. This said, its not in the same league as the BCTW. While the micro adjuster is a saviour when dead centre lines are required (saves a lot of time fine tuning sometimes), the cutting wheel is a disappointment - sure it cuts well but I suspect it will go dull in half the time a BCTW equivalent would.

As Mike Henderson points out, one marking gauge isn't enough when doing repetitive markings of different widths.

Which marking gauge do I reach out for when I only need one? - the BCTW.

Richard
Melbourne, Australia