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View Full Version : Best metals to use cermark on



Tom Cullen
03-20-2007, 5:07 PM
What are considered the best metals to laser etch with cermark? I wanted to give this a try and was wondering, if I could find a metal supplier here in San Diego, what would I ask for, steel , aluminum, unfinished etc? I dare say that this would have to be purchased in sheets much the same as acrylic? I was more or less thinking of something I could mount outdoors, like a memorial plaque but want to be able to use sizes like 12X12 or 18X18.

Thanks
Tom

Joe Pelonio
03-20-2007, 5:15 PM
Laserbits sells cermarkable metals, as do other places (see laser supplier list sticky), but some have coatings that prevent it from working. It has to be totally bare metal, or you have to first engrave off the coating, then without it moving apply the cermark (I use airbrush) and engrave again. The real problem is having a shear to cut the metal to the right size if you cannot order it to size. Sometimes I'll buy it and have it cut at a local heating/ac shop, or will buy it cut to size at a metal supply house in Seattle that is more for fabrication rather than engraving. I have had good luck with stainless steel, not as good luck with brass and aluminum but got it to work with real slow speed (10 speed 100% power on 45 watt).

Larry Bratton
03-20-2007, 5:58 PM
Epilog EXT due here tomorrow. I was ordering various starter materials today and I bought a spray can of the stuff and a couple of stainless steel license plates. Laserbits has a section called Cermarkables and have several metals there. Check em out.

Vicky Orsini
03-20-2007, 7:33 PM
I've had great success with stainless steel. I've done stainless coffee travel mugs, stainless hip flasks and stainless pet tags. I also have an Explorer II 30W. I use 100% power, 15% speed, and get a great mark every time.

Rodne Gold
03-20-2007, 7:50 PM
The only metal marking paste generally works well and consistently on is stainless steel. We just stick to marking that.
It's not that you cant do other stuff , its just that you generally run into problems with adherence of the paste , weak markings that are not permanent and tarnish/cleaning issues with metals like copper , brass , silver , nickle and chrome.

Bruce Volden
03-20-2007, 8:28 PM
Tom,


I do a boatload of knives for trapshooting clubs so I know they work well. Also, just over the weekend I did 10 swords for some awards for a strategy/fantasy club that has a yearly convention in various cities. BUT-some of the higher carbon content metals will stain sporadically under the Cerdec marking paste. When this happens to me I just fire up my Baldor buffing wheel and eliminate the stains (it will NOT affect the marking!).

Bruce

Bill Cunningham
03-20-2007, 9:47 PM
Different grades of stainless also make a difference.
I just did a couple of small test pieces which were a tiny set of screwdrivers a Ford dealership was handing out.. My Daughter brough them in to see If I could put another logo on the other side.. I took my thumb, and rubbed off the screen or pad printed Ford Logo (yup it was that easy) I buffed them down with steel wool and alcohol, sprayed them with cermark and lasered Chev on one, and GMC on the other washed them, and rubbed off most of the work :mad:

I sanded the remains off both, Dropped the speed from my normal 20% for stainless, to 5% 1200 dpi, 100% power sprayed and lasered them again.. This time it stayed on, and solid black.. Just Cheap Chinese Stainless..