"How to" for making Totes?

[Dominic Greco]

Just a quick one here.

Some time ago I seem to remember an on-line article I read that outlined the procedure for making a tote. Now for the life of me I can't seem to find it! I'm really curious how "professionals" (ie: those who are more experienced) drill that long hole through the tote. I'm also curious about grain orientation.

The reason I'm asking is that I was looking at some cherry, bubinga, bocote, and walnut scraps I have laying around and thought they would make fine looking totes.

BTW, I KNOW I can buy these pre-made. But where is the fun in that? ;)

Any help here?

[Clint Jones]

Here is a link to a tutorial by Roy Griggs .

http://www.shavingsandsawdust.com/projects/makingTotes/index.asp

He mentions about messing up 3 when drilling the holes. If you drill the hole before you cut and shape your stock you can avoid this. Just cut the bottom of the stock that you have laid out the basic shapeof the tote on to the angle that the threaded rod needs to be, you can cut another piece of stock to the angle and clamp them end to end on your drill press. this will make the hole a straight shot that you can make on your drill press. Just make sure you mark the center of the width of the stock so the hole will be centered. Now that your hole is drilled you can cut the basic shape with a band saw and shape with files and rasps. Keep the plane your making the tote for handy so you can check the fit as your shaping. This will ensure you get the bottom even with the tab on the heel of the plane.

Hope this helps you out.

[Alice Frampton]

Another method (http://www.cornishworkshop.co.uk/planetote.html)

Cheers, Alf

[David Mendoza]

Place the screw without the tote in the plane, then using a bevel gauge flush with the sole, se the angle. The transfer the angle to the wood then mark the outline of a tote over the line.

Good luck.

[John Schreiber]

Thanks for those links. I plan to do a couple of those this summer.

[Dominic Greco]

I've printed out the directions and saved them to PDF. That way I have em' saved and stored to DVD archive!

Thanks again for the help

[Steve knight]

the only real tricky part is drilling a through hole. seldom can this be done well from one end. even in my mill/drill with a high end brad point bit the bit usually wandered in the last 1/3 or so of the hole. a stiffer drill bit may do it. using a high rpm helps too.
but a 1/4" 6" carbide endmill will do it in a single pass though you have to back out to remove the shavings quite often (G)