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View Full Version : Above the table Router lift for poor amateurs



Nissim Avrahami
03-19-2007, 3:42 PM
Good day

As you know, I don't have the "normal" cabinet router table but...

If one day I will make it, I thought to make a "Router lift" like on the drawing.

I would like to emphasize that it will work only with "Plunge router".

All the parts (almost) can be made of wood.

The "Round nut" is one like used in the "Jorgensen" screw clamps.

During the lifting (i.e., rotating the threaded rod), the "Lifting bar" will "shorten". That's the reason that the "lifting bar" is slotted and can move on the fix bolt (the "view from above" detail).

The "Lower support" is just a block of hard wood with hole at the size of the threaded rod with a piece of metal inserted into the hole to prevent the "eating" of the wood.

The "Upper support" is also a block of hard wood with a large hole to enable a socket to be pushed in to rotate the "Double nut" and, a small hole at the size of the threaded rod.

The "Plunger" is made of round stick and slids up/down in mating hole in the "Cross beam".

Sorry for the poor drawing, I'm still "Lo-tech"...

niki


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t104/nanikami/Routerlift2.jpg

Paul Johnstone
03-19-2007, 3:48 PM
Another idea is to use a plunge router that has a feature that allows you to adjust from the top, such as this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Porter-Cable-895PK-Horsepower-Plunge-Collets/dp/B0000DCBKN/ref=pd_bbs_1/002-9241505-5896054?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1174333651&sr=8-1

Bill Bolen
03-19-2007, 5:02 PM
I bought that pc router when it first came out. I mainly wanted the top side adjustment for the router table. Couldn't be happier! The only problem is dust can wedge between the motor and motor housing making it stick. So I blow it out 2 or 3 times a year. Saved me the price of one of the expensive router lifts.
Bill

James Suzda
03-20-2007, 8:25 AM
Hi Niki,
I like your idea! I for one cannot afford a $300+ for a lift router for my table.
Jim