Table Saw Fence and Table tolerances

[Calvin Crutchfield]

I have a dial indicator setup nice and snug in my miter slot.

Now what tolerances should I shoot for as far as the fence being parrallel to the miter slot and the slots parallel to the blade. They are very close now with minimal effort, but I don't often deal in thousands of an inch.

Your advice is appreciated!

[Laurie Brown]

I have a dial indicator setup nice and snug in my miter slot.

Now what tolerances should I shoot for as far as the fence being parrallel to the miter slot and the slots parallel to the blade. They are very close now with minimal effort, but I don't often deal in thousands of an inch.

Your advice is appreciated!

I want to get one to set up on my table for the same reason, but I don't want to go broke in buying one. What did you get?

[Calvin Crutchfield]

I got this. Ater a failed attempt at making my own.

http://www.amazon.com/MasterGage-SB-1-SuperBar/dp/B00006RGLB

[Brian Dormer]

Dial gauges and magnetic bases are available DIRT CHEAP at Harbor Freight. It's the same thing you pay 3 or 4 times as much for at other stores. As for the MasterGauge - you really don't need it. Just clamp the mag base (with the magnet turned off) to your miter gauge and run it back and forth in the slot. In theory, you want the miter GAUGE to be straight and square to the blade - doesn't matter what the SLOT is doing. (although - in practice, if one is right, the other should be as well).

[Marc Prudhomme]

Ya Harbor Freight baby,Harbor Freight.Come over to the Dark side.Dont be afraid

[CPeter James]

http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/tstu.htm

[glenn bradley]

I think Calvin was looking for what tolerances the rest of us shoot for. I shoot for .001" and generally get it. If the fence material or the miter groove themselves have deviations along the path, be sure to take that into account or you'll go nuts.

My previous saw had both these issues but not to an extent that it was a problem. It just confused me till I figured out I was measuring one section of fence, adjusting and then measuring an overlapping section that started and ended a couple inches off. With the irregularities I never got a solid reading.

Bear in mind that you are calculating differences; don't get hung up on the number on the dial, just the difference between the start and finish number, eh?

Measure the same span each time you adjust, use the same tooth on the blade rotating front to rear an you check (see CPeter's provided link), and so forth.

[Calvin Crutchfield]

Yes I was looking for the tolerances.

I got my fence to miter within .001 front to back. But it will span .005 or so if I run it along the whole fence. I presume this is a fence adjustement, tighten or loosen it at the affected points.

My blade to miter is .003" which I will fix by adjusting the table tomorrow.


thanks for the link!

[Dan Forman]

I think you will find that the face of your fence will vary within a few thou over it's full length, mine does (Unifence). No way to adjust for that, they aren't made to such tight tolerances.

Dan

[Ted Miller]

First off check to see if your table and blades are flat, most blades are not and you will never come across a "perfect" blade. Miter to blade .001, blade to fence .001 and if you like you can toe out the fence at the rear of the blade .001-.002 to prevent kickback when the back of the blade cuts the stock.

I have used them all when it comes to measurements on my TS/RAS and yes I am retentive about it, checking every week or so. the best tool I have used besides a good dial indicator is the TS Aligner. Ed is a great guy and makes some of the best products I have used for measurments:

http://www.ts-aligner.com/