Miter Sled - Design Consideration

[Kevin Smith]

When building a miter sled, does it make any difference which way the miter is cut (i.e. point forward or point to the rear)? What are the benefits of one design over the other? Is one design safer to use than the other?

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[glenn bradley]

I don't use a sled (Incra gauge and fence) but when cutting I lead with the outside 'corner' the way a forward pointing miter sled would. I seem to get cleaner edges more consistently when doing this. Like anything I guess, when you find a method that works well for you, you tend to do it that way if you're not experimenting / learning.

Someone else may get better results the other way or not even have a preference. . . I just read this back to myself and realize it is not real helpful. You may want to make a bunch of test cuts with your miter gauge and see which way 'you' like best(?).

[Kevin Smith]

Thanks Glenn!

When you look at sleds like the Dubby - they lead with the inside corner. Even Mark Marzluf's sled takes this approach. However, when you see most of the other custom sleds posted on this forum, they tend to lead with the long side (outside corner). Just didn't understand why.

To your point... it may be just personal preference.

[Pete Brown]

When building a miter sled, does it make any difference which way the miter is cut (i.e. point forward or point to the rear)? What are the benefits of one design over the other? Is one design safer to use than the other?


If you put the point to the rear of the sled, you'll have the sled halfway off the table before you are able to actually make the cut. If you put it point forward, you make better use of table real-estate and end up not reaching up so close to the blade to make your cut.

Pete

[Kevin Smith]

Pete,

My thoughts were the other way around. If the point is to the rear, (inside corner lead), then you have better visability when the saw blade engages the wood. In other words, you're not trying to lean forward across the sled to make your cut alignment. I guess maybe it depends on how deep your sled is???

Thanks for your thoughts!

[Don Bullock]

It seems to me that if you put it point forward any tearout or splintering will be on the inside of the frame as opposed to the outside where it can be seen.

[Kevin Smith]

Some other thoughts and/or questions...

What effect does the force of the blade have on the stock being cut? Given the rotational forces of the blade, is there a greater tendency for the stock to be pulled into the blade during the cut - rather than being pushed away?


I've noticed that when I cut the shoulders on tenons (simple cross-cut) that the stock seems to want to "walk" toward the blade. Maybe this has nothing to do with the mechanics of the rotating blade and everything to do with the saw or blade that I use.


However, this causes me to question whether or not the accuracy of a miter cut can be appreciably effected by the method being used. When leading with the inside corner can this cause the stock to "walk" into the blade during the cut and away from a stop block. Conversely, if we lead with the outside corner, does the force of the blade and the angle of cut have a tendency to hold the stock more firmly against the stop block. Thereby resulting in a more accurate miter and length of cut.


The other question is why do many of the more popular sleds work on a completely different design premise. The Dubby Sled, the Jointech Smart Fence, and the Incra Miter Express all allow the cut-off to fall to a stationary table thus avoiding or minimizing the risk of carrying the cut-off back into the blade. Does this style simply make more sense?