Finish Problem Shaker End Table

[Mike Hill]

Here are 3 pictures of a Shaker End Table I am building for my wife. As discussed on the forum, I used shellac to finish the item. Needless to say, I am having problems getting a smooth finish on the table. After an initial coat of 1# cut shellac, I began spraying 2# cut and doing some sanding between coats. It just seems to go on very heavy and orange peal to some extent, so I finally sanded the table down to the grain. After spraying on one additional coat I am running in to the same problem. As usual, I am spraying outside in less than ideal humidity. The humidity just goes with this part of the world, but if I wait until the afternoon, I can spray in 55 to 60% humidity.

Wonder if anyone has any suggestions. I am using a normal needle on a PC PSH1 spray gun. I am thinking of sanding it down a bit again and using Waterlox wiping varnish finishing in a satin, but quite honestly will accept any suggestions on what to do. Since it is for my wife, I want it to be nearly perfect. Like all new furniture builders, finishing is not my best skill :) Definitly a finishing class in my future.

Mike

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[Brian Weick]

You may want to thin the shellac down a little more if you're application is to spray, if that doesn't work, could be your climate environment. Have you done projects with the shellac you are using before with no problem or is this the first for this brand?
Regards,
Brian

[Nancy Laird]

Mike, have you thought about spraying lacquer? Makes a very sturdy finish, easily repaired, and you can do a satin finish with few problems. Dries quickly, light sand after the first coat, and two more coats. Just a suggestion.

Nancy

[Mike Hill]

Brian: This is my first go round with shellac. This is the Blond-De waxed shellac in flakes from Woodcraft. I have sprayed Lacquer in the past.

Mike

[Mike Hill]

Nancy: This is one of the alternatives I am considering. I have sprayed shellac in the past and have some retarder if it is humid. Of course, here in Round Rock the humidity and out-do retarder at times, especially in the spring.
Mike

[Brian Weick]

I agree with Nancy-all the way. I have no problems using a lacquer finish -at all, you may want to change your brand or consult woodcraft about this product ~ I am sure they can help steer you in the write direction.
Regards,
Brian

[Steve Schoene]

I don't spray shellac so I can't help with the technical aspects of spraying it, though thinning to about 1 1/2 lb. cut might be a good experiment. I would suggest that getting the "nearly perfect" finish directly off the gun isn't always possible, but that one of shellac's advantages is that it rubs out so easily. So, instead of sanding off down to nearly nothing, just sand to flatten the surface without cutting through. You may want to start with 400 grit or even 320 grit. Sand just until you have eliminated the shiny spots, and then work in a couple of stages to about 1000 grit. Finish off to a satin finish with fine pumice or rubbing compound. You'll have to do some test boards to determine exactly which degree of fineness you need for the rubbing compound.

[Brian Weick]

Nice job on the table by the way-:)

[Mike Hill]

Nice job on the table by the way-:)

Brian: Thanks for the comment. I was very happy with the construction, but the finish is not what I want. Here is a picture of a Shaker Tall Clock I just finished and in this case, using soft Maple, I fought a blotching problem all the way. As you can see from the picture, I corrected some of the problem, but not all. BTW, New hands, antique glass and a custom face have been added since this picture.

Mike
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=60427&stc=1&d=1174055803

[Mike Hill]

Steve: This is a really good idea and It might get me through this one. Thanks for taking the time to post.
Mike