Finished drill press table---pics

[Dan Forman]

Well, I finally (just about) finished this up, all there is left to do is set up the fence with cam actuated locks, then make a circle jig so that i can bandsaw a few replaceable inserts. It doesn't really show, but the hole for the inserts is offset, so that the insert can be turned a number of times, revealing a fresh surface as needed. The lighting in this corner of the shop is not very even, so please forgive the high contrast in the photos.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1010665.jpg

The table is two layers of 3/4" melamine, the trim and drawer face is lighly spalted birch. The box that supports the table and holds the drawer is 1/2" baltic birch, and the drawer is aspen. Table is 18 x 28".

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1010664.jpg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l279/T-Caster/P1010663.jpg

The drawer box supporting the table provides enough extra room to be able to crank the table up and down without busting my knuckles against the table.

The fence is a piece of 1/4" x 2 x 2 aluminum angle. I took a chunk out of the center to allow for chuck access if I need to drill right next to the fence. I'm going with cam locks on it so that I won't be banging my knuckles every time I go to move it.

Not sure that I like the type of hold down I have presently, doesn't seem too secure, so will keep looking.

I borrowed the design from Photog over on WoodNet, so I can't claim credit for much of anything as far as that goes other than choice of wood. If I were to make another one, I would go with 1/2" malamine instead of 3/4", which would make for a lighter table, would also eliminate the need to rout out the fence/hold down slots, as the aluminum channel is 1/2" deep, and could be accomodated by making the top layer of melamine in three pieces.

Dan

[Kyle Kraft]

Dan,

Looks very nice! Good job!!

[Tim Malyszko]

Wow, nice table. The drawer underneath the base would be very handy. I have some spalted birch sitting in my wood rack that I've been debating on what to do with, so I'm glad to see a finished project using the same type of wood to give me some ideas.

[glenn bradley]

Great job Dan. When I first saw it I wondered why you made the table so small . . . then I realized that in my mind I was using my "baby" Delta for scale, not your "real" DP. Looks great.

[John Bush]

Hi Dan,
Nice job. Fill me in on your DP; model, specs, etc. I am shopping for one and I've read good things on the Delta's. Thanks for sharing. JCB.

[Don Bullock]

Dan, that looks fantastic. I saw the one posted by Photog over on WoodNet and liked his design. When I get a floor model drill press this will be my first project. Your wood choice, and that of others building items for the shop, is inspiring. Since we have the wood and love how it looks, using good looking wood, instead of cheap junk, for shop projects makes sense.

[Dan Forman]

Thanks guys. The birch I used is sold locally as "character birch" due to the light spalting, worm holes, and a few knots. It is really very economical, at about $1.50 bf, so fair game for shop projects. Besides, the way I look at it is that if I'm going to be spending much time in the shop, I might as well have nice looking shop furniture!

John---The model # is 17-968. I don't have much to compare it to in terms of real world experience, the specs are good, fit and finish fair, but probably on par with other imports. The speed control is quite handy, and basically it does a pretty good job.

Dan

[Tim Malyszko]

Thanks guys. The birch I used is sold locally as "character birch" due to the light spalting, worm holes, and a few knots. It is really very economical, at about $1.50 bf, so fair game for shop projects. Besides, the way I look at it is that if I'm going to be spending much time in the shop, I might as well have nice looking shop furniture!


That's funny that they sell it "economically" because the spalted birch I find here carries a "premium" price compared to non-spalted wood and I still have to deal with knots and a few worm holes. Fortunately, the place I bought mine sells all the birch at one price.

[Ron Blaise]

Great looking drill table there Dan, by the way, you can adjust your photo's with several different programs. Microsoft Photo editor for one does a very good job of correcting for poor light conditions. I tried it with some very poor tool photos a supplier sent me and have been using it and others ever since.

[Dan Forman]

That's funny that they sell it "economically" because the spalted birch I find here carries a "premium" price compared to non-spalted wood and I still have to deal with knots and a few worm holes. Fortunately, the place I bought mine sells all the birch at one price.

This same place sells their "real" spalted birch for over twice the price of the character. The real stuff has much heavier spalting though. They also have a "rustic" grade, which has even more knots, and is only about $1 bf. I went to pick up some more of the character stuff last week, but they were out of stock. Apparently their supplier marches to the tune of his own drummer, and is rather casual about his business practices, not particularly concerned about whether stocks run low.

Ron---I touched these up a bit in Photoshop Elements, and the software could probably do more if the operator knew what he was doing. :D Eventually I ought to get some photo flood lights and a soft box though.

Dan