What tools for hollowing ??

[roy knapp]

:confused: What type, brand of tools do you use for your hollowing.

There is a large selection to chose from and at the cost of each its not a Buy and Try situation.

I want to do freehand Hollowing and some of the tools that i kind of narowed it to, are the Robert Sorbys Rs2000, which is the same as the Dennis Stewart system, the Hamlet Little Brother and the Keltoon Hollower Tools and handle.

My lathe is a JET 14*42 and my intentions are to work within that machines capabilities.:confused:

[Keith Burns]

Of the one's you have mentioned I can only speak about the one I have. That is the Hamlett Little Brother. It is an excellent tool, high quality, and it works great. I have had it for several years and use it on dry wood and have yet to have to sharpen it. I now use mostly a captive hollowing set-up but will not part with the Little Brother.

[Frank Kobilsek]

Roy,

If you come to enjoy hollowing you will want to go captive eventually. Keith here finally convinced me and thruthfully I just recently got set-up for captive work. I ended up with Trent Bosch and Don Pencil bars in my set and it looks like they should keep me happy for a long while. Both in the middle of the price range for this aspect of turning tools.

Good luck in your search. One way to save a few bucks is avoid mixing bar sizes to avoid multiple handles.

Frank

[David Walser]

There are about as many opinions on which is the best hollowing tool as there are turners. Among those to consider is the Elbo Tool. It's a different kind of captured tool. The cutting tool is mounted in an articulated arm which is attached to your lathe's tail stock and is supported by your tool rest. This gives freedom of movement on the horizontal, but not the verticle, planes. I've had a chance to play with it and it is very smooth. It only takes finger tip pressure to control the tool.

Having said all that, I don't own one. Why? I have a short bed lathe and there is not enough room to mount the Elbo Tool (or any other captured system). However, when I get a couple of hours free time (currently estimated to be sometime in late 2008 :rolleyes:), I can simply make a floor stand to take the place of my tail stock. Then, I'll place my order. :)

Here's a link to the Elbo Tool web page:

http://www.elbotool.com/

[Brian McInturff]

I use the John Jordan and Don Pencil sets. And am waiting on my Captive System that should be here Saturday or Monday. That system(Keith Clark System) will allow both of my hollowing sets to be used with it. I use the Don Pencil Arm brace with both sets. Stupid me, the first time I used the arm brace I had it upside down. Couldn't figure out why it was still torquing until I actually thought about it. They sure beat the Sorby multitip and hooked scraper.:)
Brian

[Brian McInturff]

David,
Which short bed lathe do you have. Depending on which one you might be able to just make an extension that mounts on the bed to extend it. Or turn the tailstock around and fabricate one that is curved and bent to mount in it.
Brian

[David Walser]

David,
Which short bed lathe do you have. Depending on which one you might be able to just make an extension that mounts on the bed to extend it. Or turn the tailstock around and fabricate one that is curved and bent to mount in it.
Brian

I have a Woodcraft lathe. I really like it for turning bowls and shorter spindle work, like boxes. The new Woodcraft company lists a bed extension that I've been told will fit my lathe. Three problems with that approach: It's heavy (meaning I'm unlikely to remove it once it's attached); it's expensive (estimated price of more than $500); and it's not available, yet.

[Neal Addy]

I've used the Multi-Tip for quite a while now and been fairly successful with it. But it's not the most idea hollowing tool ever invented.

I just recently got a Don Pencil Stinger and Scorpion set but I'm still trying to get used to them. Only turned half a bowl with the Scorpion so far (don't ask about the other half :eek:) so I can't really comment yet.

[Bernie Weishapl]

I have the Kelton's in 5/16" and 5/8" that I use for free hand. I just bought Randy Privett's Monster Captured tool for hollowing. What a nice hefty unit.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Roy, as a segmenter, I don't often have to do much hollowing, but occasionally I'll hollow out a stave-constructed, cone shaped form. With a multi-faceted surface and lots of dried glue, my hollowing tool is put to the test. I recently started using a new tool called the Eliminator. It works great - so easy a caveman could do it. The shaft has two flats so you always know the correct position to hold the cutter (the second flat is so you can reverse turn with it). It's expensive, but I'm glad I have it. I'm using the 3/8" model. It's only available through Packard; here's the page:

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools-duaeli (http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools-duaeli)

(No affiliation with Packard.)

[David Walser]

I recently started using a new tool called the Eliminator. It works great - so easy a caveman could do it.

Malcolm,

I have a tool similar to the Eliminator that I bought off ebay. I can't turn a thing with it! (I'm feeling dumber than a caveman.) Do you use the Eliminator like a scraper, a spindle gouge, or a skew? There's no real bevel to rub... I'm stumped.:confused:

[Mike Vickery]

If you are willing you can make a basic set pretty easily. A straight boring tool is very simple to make and I have made a couple of them for about $10 a piece in materials. Look up how to make an Oland tool and it is pretty much the same thing. Heck I have a 5/8ths bar one that takes a 1/4 inch bit that I have never put a handle on that I would sell you cheap. I have used them for hand hollowing several times. Enco sells metal working double ended boring bars for between 6 to 8 bucks (depending on size)that will hold a bit at a 45 or a 90 http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=127&PMITEM=378-4006. I have only used the 3/4 inch one in a captured setup. You may have trouble with torque using it handheld since the tip of the bit is not line up with the shaft.

I an not saying these are the absolute best but you can start hand hollowing for under $20

[Jim Becker]

Jamison captive system with either the Jamison cutters or Trent Bosch cutters. Unless it's really tiny, I don't do them by hand and then, it's with a little hollowing tool that Bob Rosand made.

[Malcolm Tibbetts]

Malcolm,

I have a tool similar to the Eliminator that I bought off ebay. I can't turn a thing with it! (I'm feeling dumber than a caveman.) Do you use the Eliminator like a scraper, a spindle gouge, or a skew? There's no real bevel to rub... I'm stumped.:confused:

David, it cuts just like a termite ring tool, but there's no hole to plug up. It cuts fine shavings, not chips. The unique thing is the flat surface on the shaft; by keeping the tool flat on the tool rest, the cutter is always at the best cutting angle. Unlike a ring tool, the cutter is carbide; it doesn't need sharpening and it can be repositioned by loosening a screw, and if it needs replacement, the cost is less than $20. I haven't even repositioned my cutter yet. I recently turned the bottom of a staved cone with about 7" of overhang with no trouble at all.