Impact Driver Question

[Glen Blanchard]

After reading all the glowing reports here of how wonderful they are, I bought an impact driver - a DeWalt 18V. I took it for a spin (pun intended) this afternoon. Wow, is this thing cool. I was able to easily loosen some #14 Phillips head screws with ease. I replaced the Phillips head with some (McFeeley's) square drive screws. This is where I need a bit of coaching.

I am used to using a simple cordless drill to drive in screws and have come accustomed to the tactile feeling of knowing when a screw is tight - the other cue was when the Phillips head screw totally strips. :eek: The impact driver has no such feeling as it ratchets constantly. In my desire to be sure I drove home one of these #14 square drive screws, I broke off the head of the drive I had chucked up in the driver. I am sure I was being over-zealous and probably had the trigger totally depressed when this happened. So what visual, tactile, or audible cue do I use to determine when I have a screw driven home and tight when using an impact driver? Should I merely look for the screw to stop turning?

[Anthony Anderson]

Glen, I use all three. Does your impact driver have a variable speed trigger, IOW the more you pull it back = more speed and torque? If so, then I drive the screw until I the screw head is almost flat with the surfact of the wood, at this point I slowly back off the trigger and drive the screw until flush, or just a little below the surface. If you back off the trigger and slowly drive the last 1/8-1/4" you will be able to hear the resistance of the screw entering the wood, as the "beats" from the impact will become more labored at the lesser trigger depression. I hope I made some sense. This is just how I do it, others may have better ideas. BTW, Congratulations on the new impact. I could not believe the ease at which they can drive screws. Enjoy it. Regards, Bill

[Glen Blanchard]

I should have mentioned that the screws that caused the problem were pan head screws. Actually, I was I was tightening phenolic (Keller dovetail jig) down to its backer board. So the head of the screw was not being driven into wood, but rather tightened down into the countersunk recess of the phenolic. Had I been driving these into wood, I think I would have had a much easier time determining when to stop driving the screw.

[Don Bergren]

Had I been driving these into wood, I think I would have had a much easier time determining when to stop driving the screw.

Yeah, wood will be much easier to judge. Even though it's an impact, you will be amazed at how quickly you get a feel for it and will know when to stop.

Don't tell anyone I said this..... but I've been known to throw a few pocket screws in with mine.:eek: It does work for pocket screws, but a regular gun with a clutch works much better.

[Dave Falkenstein]

I use a Dewalt 12 volt impact driver. There is a change in the sound when the screw beigns to tighten. I listen for that sound and then check to be sure the screw is fully tightened. Sometimes I will hear the change in sound if I am driving into harder than usual wood - like a knot - so it is best to also check visually.

[Charles McKinley]

Hi Glen,

Remember you bought the 800 pound gorilla of impact drivers. I have the same one. You will get the feel of it shortly. I start tapping the trigger as it comes close to being tight. You can also just barely engage the trigger and it will drive more slowly. to snug thins up.

[Roddy Thibault]

When i break bits most of the time its when i pull the impact out on a angle and then they snap off. so now i pull it straight out

[Michael Schwartz]

If you are using good quality screws you can just keep sinking the head until it is all they way through the first board and set into the next. (Kind of defeats the purpose of the first one though)

I usualy just set screw-heads right below the surface. With bolts, I tighten them until they stop spinning and then just pulse the trigger a few times.

I have been using the Ryobi 18v Impact driver, but lately that has taken the back seat to my new Milwaukee V28 cordless drill. I am waiting for them to release an impact driver for that line, currently all they offer is a full blown impact gun.

[Eugene A. Manzo III]

Glen I would stop just before you break the head off and that should be tight enough :) . I'm just being a wise guy tonight I have not used my
impact driver yet but thanks for the heads up.

[Anthony Anderson]

Don't tell anyone I said this..... but I've been known to throw a few pocket screws in with mine.:eek: It does work for pocket screws, but a regular gun with a clutch works much better.

Hey Don, I actually use my small impact on all of my pocket screws, especially on hard maple. The "impact" action seems to drive them better than screw gun alone, at least for me. I just ease the screws in. Before, when I was using a screwgun, I had a terrible time snapping pocket screw heads off. Thanks, Bill

[Anthony Anderson]

Sorry about that Glen. I would just run the pan head screw down until it touches the surface and then have a screwdriver (hand power) handy, and finish it off that way, at least until you feel more comfortable with it. I bet it is especially frustrating snapping the screw head off when doing dovetails. Regards, Bill





I should have mentioned that the screws that caused the problem were pan head screws. Actually, I was I was tightening phenolic (Keller dovetail jig) down to its backer board. So the head of the screw was not being driven into wood, but rather tightened down into the countersunk recess of the phenolic. Had I been driving these into wood, I think I would have had a much easier time determining when to stop driving the screw.