Tapering Jig for Slider

[Steve Rowe]

I recently built this tapering jig to make 2 or 4 sided leg tapers on my Felder. This could easily be adapted to work on any slider. The jig is flexible and adjustable for stock of different sizes. The jig has a wooden strip where it mounts to the slider for to minimize future setup and alignment. The jig uses a dowel center as a pivot point for the leg bottom to ensure equal tapers on all sides. The bottom slides and clamps to tweak on the final leg taper and bottom dimension. It is also replaceable if you need to use larger stock. A Destaco clamp is mounted to an adjustable stop so the end of the taper at the leg top can be established.

To use, mark the center of the leg on the bottom and dimple with either a center punch or awl to position on the dowel center. Make the first taper cut and rotate for the desired number of tapers. In a couple of minutes, you will have perfect tapered legs. I used a rip blade so had to clean the leg up on the jointer. Note that the bottom of the leg is suspended above the base of the jig after the cut since it is mounted on the dowel center. I highly recommend using a zero clearance insert when using this jig to prevent the cutoff from, well - let's not go there, I am sure you can figure out what happened when the cutoff went you know where:( .

It does need some improvements:

1. Make the bottom end shorter to clear the guard and minimize the
height of the blade. This should improve dust collection which is
somewhat lacking as evidenced in the pictures.
2. Mount the Destaco clamp further away from the blade to clear the
guard.
3. The clamp to hold the leg laterally needs significant improvement
although I haven't noodled this one through yet. I am thinking of using a push style Destaco clamp instead.

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Steve

[Jim Becker]

Thanks, Steve. I recently built a "quick and dirty" similar jig for my new slider to accomplish the same task. You've given me some ideas to think about to refine it further.

[Ed Kowaski]

Steve that's kind of a neat idea.

If you reversed the work piece the fat end of the off cut would be at the back and a zero clearance insert wouldn't be needed.

Maybe it's ok but the dowel center seems weak. I'd feel better with a steel pin and a 1/4 or so drilled hole in the leg.

[Steve Rowe]

Steve that's kind of a neat idea.

If you reversed the work piece the fat end of the off cut would be at the back and a zero clearance insert wouldn't be needed.

Maybe it's ok but the dowel center seems weak. I'd feel better with a steel pin and a 1/4 or so drilled hole in the leg.

Ed, I had used a 1/4" dowel in a previous similar jig used on a Unisaw. I wanted to find a way to avoid the drilling operation and the subsequent plugging operation to fill the hole. It also makes rotating the leg for subsequent cuts slightly more difficult. I had originally considered using the point from my lathe center but then I remembered those seldom used dowel centers. By dimpling the center of the leg it held fine with no slippage. The end clamp ensures it stays on the point.

Your thought about having the piece fed the other way is an interesting thought. This could very well solve the problem. When I make cuts like this I seldom feed this way primarily because of my mindset with attempting to start cuts like this on a bandsaw. This probably doesn't apply with a tablesaw.

Thanks,
Steve

[Ed Kowaski]

If you've tried the dowel idea and like this better I'll take your word for it. I had a look at the large photo and the point on your dowel centers using looks quite a bit larger then the ones I have or had. (No idea where they might be ;)

Feeding the other way should be fine. Thanks for the post/idea

[lou sansone]

hi steve
great idea .. I will keep it in mind for my next project
thanks
lou