I made this handle last night

[Bart Leetch]

The chisel is 8 1/2" long the handel is 3 3/4" long is the handle long enough this was just an experiment to see if I would get the tapered part of the handle right & I did. I haven't pressed the handle all the way home yet.

[Mike Weaver]

Nice job Bart!

What did you use for the hoop at the top?

I've successfully used 3/4" iron pipe before, btw.

Thanks for sharing,
-Mike

[Von Bickley]

Bart,

Looks like you got just it right...:) :) :)

[Louis Bois]

The handle is long enough if it feels "right" to you Bart. Does it feel comfortable for its intended use? If so, don't change it.

[Bart Leetch]

Nice job Bart!

What did you use for the hoop at the top?

I've successfully used 3/4" iron pipe before, btw.

Thanks for sharing,
-Mike

Iron pipe.:eek: Great minds think alike.:D

The handle is Cherry.

[Dave Anderson NH]

Good job Bart. There is no right or wrong on size and shape as long as the handle fits the both socket and your hand. That's the great thing about being able to customize your tools. You make it to fit you and your intended use, not a manufacturers standardized idea of what fits "most people".

[Caleb Dietrich]

Looks like you did a nice job.
I don't really turn. And I have not made chisel handles before. But I have used socket chisels. I think you might want to push back that shoulder a bit... Socket chisels are designed to be continually "seated" every time you hit them with a mallet. It will look nice a fit snug now, but as the wood continues to dry over time the handle might loosen. And if the shoulder stops the handle from being driven in further it will stay loose. I think you would be safe if you could maintain the 1/8"-3/16" gap shown in the picture after you have "driven the handle home." If you've already put a finish on it, or hit it in tight, this might be something you have to do down the road.

[Steve Clardy]

Looks good Bart.

I've been slowly making new handles for my un-complete set of Buck socket chisels. One here, one there.

[Bart Leetch]

Looks like you did a nice job.
I don't really turn. And I have not made chisel handles before. But I have used socket chisels. I think you might want to push back that shoulder a bit... Socket chisels are designed to be continually "seated" every time you hit them with a mallet. It will look nice a fit snug now, but as the wood continues to dry over time the handle might loosen. And if the shoulder stops the handle from being driven in further it will stay loose. I think you would be safe if you could maintain the 1/8"-3/16" gap shown in the picture after you have "driven the handle home." If you've already put a finish on it, or hit it in tight, this might be something you have to do down the road.


Caleb

My Dad was given the Cherry when I was 10 years old & that was about 45 years ago hmm I seem to be dating myself here. Oh well & anyway the wood should be almost dry by now I would thing. Thanks for the recommendations & information.:)

[Tom Sontag]

That is a nice looking piece of work Bart. I am in a bit of of a chisel handle making mode myself.

Other than the fact that it is gorgeous, I have one observation: The iron pipe idea is to contain mushrooming as you beat the handle. Cherry will definitely mushroom under most mallets, so you are okay there, except it appears that there is almost no wood showing out from the iron to hit. This means your mallet will be whacking steel, which could age your mallet prematurely.

Derek Cohen recently observed to me that either the handle or the mallet is ultimately a disposable/perishable item while the other should be considered permanent. It is unclear which route you have chosen. I personally agree with Derek: the mallet should be the perishable item.