PM2000 Questions

[Jim Summers]

I finally got to see / look over a pm2000 today. Up to this point all of my experience had been limited to internet stuff. My first test was to crank down the wheels to see how moving it around worked. Once the base is up I notice the two extension table legs still are on the floor a couple of turns on the levelers let roll easily. Is this how others are moving their pm2000's? I guess one jsut has to take care and only shove on the table itself.

I forgot to look but it seems that the riving knife setup is part of the blade guard itself. Hence if you remove the guard you lose the riving knife. Did I just overlook something there? Also it appeared the factory table insert was built so that you had to remove the guard to get the insert completely off. Seemed like that may make blade changes a little more cumbersome than needed. Is that correct?

Anyone built or changed out the extension wing to incorporate a router table? Looking underneath the factory wing it seemed like it would involve modifying crossties.

Other than that it definitely seemed solid. The bevel on the front edge of the table was nice. Factory mitre gauge seemed decent. Raising / lowering was smooth. Locking the adjusters was good.

I am unfamiliar with what I think is a magnetic switch. If the saw is unplugged and the on button is then pushed, then the saw is plugged in, will it run or is it still off until on is pushed again? Whew that was tricky to write!

Many Thanks

[Yuchol Kim]

If you adjust the leveling feet, it will barely float above the floor if the casters are lowered, no problem there.

Riving knife replaces the blade guard.

Magnetic switch works so that contactors close (make contact) when there is power and you press START button. Once power goes out, contactors open up because there's no power. So when power returns, motor does not run. Very safe.

Blade guard/insert isn't any more cumbersome than other saws out there. You need to remove the insert to change blade, no news there.

Installing router, no need to "modify" the extension table other than cut out a hole and route a lip. If you look underneath the extension table, support braces are located specifically for a router plate install.

I found the locking knobs on PM 2000 to be much better than Jet or Unisaw, very positive lock.

[Jim Summers]

Hi Yuchol,

Are you saying that the riving knife is seperate from the blade guard? It seemed part of the gaurd.

Agreed on the insert, but it seemed to remove the insert you would have to remove the blade guard, before you could remove the insert??

Good to know about the extension table, it was hard to tell by the quick look I had today.

Thanks again.

[Yuchol Kim]

No, the guard is part of the riving knife (or backwards). But you have to judge it for what it is. The guard and riving knfe comes off so easily and fast, you won't be thinking about it. You should see the video on their website.

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Whoa. Hold on a second. The blade guard attaches to the riving knife.

YOU CAN USE THE RIVING KNIFE WITHOUT HAVING THE BLADE GUARD INSTALLED.

See this picture:

60110

To the far left is the blade guard. It's flipped up. Take it off & you have just the riving knife. And the pawls. You can take them off separately as well.

[Ken Milhinch]

What Rob said.
If you don't like the high profile you are left with after removing the blade guard and pawls, you can get a separate riving knife here.
http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=146-423

[Jim Summers]

Thanks alot guys. I was just a little confused over the whole removal process. The guy at the supply store wasn't real familiar with the setup. But the quick release buttons and stuff will be fine.

Back to modding the extension wing to double as a router table, I wonder how hard it would be get a notch cut in the rails to allow for a mitre slot?

Thanks again

[Rob Bodenschatz]

Back to modding the extension wing to double as a router table, I wonder how hard it would be get a notch cut in the rails to allow for a mitre slot?

I would think it could easily be done with a hacksaw. You may need to make several vertical cuts for each and then clean it out with a file or something. Haven't done it myself but I've heard about several people cutting those rails down.

[Jim Summers]

Good deal. I think I will concentrate on getting the hole cut for the insert and then progress from there. I can probably get by without the mitre slot for a while and maybe use some sort of push block setup.

[Tim Wagner]

you know, I just now saw those powermatic videos, and my PM2K has been on order since last Tue. That guy had the blade gaurd and knife out and back in again in like 30 or 40 seconds. The way they incorporated the Mobile base with the hand crank is awsome.

I want my saw. NOW NOW NOW!!! :)

[Rob Bodenschatz]

That guy had the blade gaurd and knife out and back in again in like 30 or 40 seconds.
30 or 40 seconds?????

Dude, it takes about 5 seconds. 10 max. Seriously. It's that easy.


The way they incorporated the Mobile base with the hand crank is awsome.
Yes it is. I knew it was awesome the day it was delivered when I was able to just crank those things up and roll it right off the pallet. I can literally move it around my shop with one pinky finger. Smooth.


I want my saw. NOW NOW NOW!!! :)
Here's a little tease for ya:
http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l81/rbodenschatz/IMG_0257.jpg
:D

[Jim Summers]

Oooooh.

I guess any standard 220 plug will be ok? I think L30-r??

[Tim Wagner]

Mwaaww, now how perty is that! I can't wait. :D:D:D:p

[Rob Bodenschatz]

I guess any standard 220 plug will be ok? I think L30-r??
I'm not an electrician by any stretch but I had a standard 220 recepticle put in for it. I looked at what the electrician installed and got a matching plug from Lowes. Wired it up myself. Also built a similarly wired extension cord. Can't remember what gauge of wire I used. I can check tonight.

[Jim Becker]

I guess any standard 220 plug will be ok? I think L30-r??

It will always be a "standard" plug/receptical that is sized appropriately for the amperage of the circuit. (Generally a 30a circuit for a 5hp machine and 20a for a 3hp machine) The hardware should match the circuit.

[Jim Summers]

If I have an existing 30a circuit, is it still ok to run the 3hp on it?

I was hoping to not have to buy breakers and fiddle in the breaker box.

TIA

[Tim Wagner]

If I have an existing 30a circuit, is it still ok to run the 3hp on it?

I was hoping to not have to buy breakers and fiddle in the breaker box.

TIA

as long as the wireing that supplys the unit is rated for 30 amp then yes. If not and the wire is overloaded it can cause a fire.:eek:

[Jim Becker]

If I have an existing 30a circuit, is it still ok to run the 3hp on it?

Yes. As long as the circuit isn't in use by something else that would put you over the 30amp rating. (generally a good idea to only use one thing at a time on such a circuit...unplug the "something else" and plug in the saw)

[Jim Summers]

Hey Tim,

If you don;t mind me asking, did you go through an online place or a local?

I would like to go through the supply company here but if there is significant savings to be had I may go the online route.

TIA

[Tim Wagner]

Hey Tim,

If you don;t mind me asking, did you go through an online place or a local?

I would like to go through the supply company here but if there is significant savings to be had I may go the online route.

TIA

I odered it localy. as a matter of fact it's sitting there as we speak. I'll be picking it up friday. :)

[Jim Summers]

I am going to do the same here.

Thanks again.