Value of a Unisaw?

[Joe McMahon]

I have a Unisaw that I bought about ten years ago. I use it for a hobby so it hasn't had a lot of use and is in excellent condition and has always been in a heated shop. I have Delta 52" extension tables with it as well as a Delta collapsible out-feed table. I have the original Unifence without a mark on it and I also have a Beismeir 52" fence I bought and installed three years ago.

Looking at the SawStop, I really like the safety factor but the price is a choker. I was just wondering what my Unisaw would be worth so I might have a good start on the price of the SawStop.

I would include pictures but my shop is at my cabin in northern Wisconsin and I won't be there until Easter.

TIA, Joe

[Joe Dusel (Vista, CA)]

Let's see, you have a Unisaw that you hardly use and you want to replace it with a SawStop saw. Hmmm... Personally unless you really need to spend some extra money I would say keep the Unisaw and just upgrade the splitter and guard (and always use them), put the Unifence back on the machine so you can slide it back when you are doing cutoffs with your mitre gauge (so you don't get binding) and buy yourself some nice long push sticks like Felder sells for about $10. Just don't cut hot dogs on the Unisaw and you should be fine.

I think the SawStop machines look nice and I'm sure they are probably worth the money, but if I were upgrading I would be looking at a low end European machine with a slider. If you keep the Unisaw use the left over money to buy some Festool stuff, like the new Domino.

Joe

[rodney mitchell]

I would say you could get 1100-1300 on your saw.

Rodney

[Jim McCarty]

Let's see, you have a Unisaw that you hardly use and you want to replace it with a SawStop saw. Hmmm... Personally unless you really need to spend some extra money I would say keep the Unisaw and just upgrade the splitter and guard (and always use them), put the Unifence back on the machine so you can slide it back when you are doing cutoffs with your mitre gauge (so you don't get binding) and buy yourself some nice long push sticks like Felder sells for about $10. Just don't cut hot dogs on the Unisaw and you should be fine.

I think the SawStop machines look nice and I'm sure they are probably worth the money, but if I were upgrading I would be looking at a low end European machine with a slider. If you keep the Unisaw use the left over money to buy some Festool stuff, like the new Domino.

Joe
I'm with Joe on this one. I've used my Unisaw almost daily for over 25 years with only 1 kickback (knock on wood) and that was my own fault. A couple of good safety devices will make yours a very safe saw and you'll still have money in the bank, or to burn. Jim

[Jim Thiel]

I agree with Joe, Joe. I'm sure it's a great tool and all, but that extra cash can buy a whole lotta happy.

Do you remember when a snowstorm would cause people to slow down on the highway? Back when people were responsible for thier own safety. It's just my opinion, but air bags and antilock brakes have actually made our world more dangerous.

Be safe Joe.

Jim

[Steveo O'Banion]

The saw is probably worth between 1K to 1.2K, depending on accessories, where you live and so on.

For MYSELF, I'd keep the unisaw, but I'm looking at getting the safe saw for school. I'd get one for home in a heart beat if I could afford it. My 9 YO daughter loves to come down with me and work.

Steve

[George Bregar]

Man, we could have worked out something. I just bought a Unisaw that I'm moving up to my cabin in northern WI. FYI, I paid a grand. And oddly my sister wants to learn woodworking, and insists she buy me a Saw Stop so I can teach her...she makes $350k a year as a graphic artist and says it will be hard to do with little stubs. :D

[Richard Niemiec]

To answer the OP question, I think the prices already mentioned are on the mark.

As to the speculation concerning the "why sell" issue, all I can say is that saftey and piece of mind are relative to the individual, and the price of something tracks that relativity. For example, if the OP were a dentist, engraver, artist or some other profession where loss of a digit would be devastating to his or her career/income and ability to support the family, the extra grand for the sawstop saw is insignificant, but the peace of mind is makes it worth the money.

That being said, I have a unisaw, took off the guard but use a splitter, and give it the respect it deserves every time I push the green button. Never crossed my mind to get the sawstop. So far I still have all 10 because I plan my cuts to be safe, have half a dozen pushsticks that get used, never force a cut and every month or so I check and recheck the saw and fence alignment. I try to live by the old saying "if you think a saw operation might be unsafe, it probably is, so re-think what you are doing." My 2 cents.

[Richard DiCerb]

Those euro sliders are nice.

[Mike Wilkins]

Rule of thumb is this: once a tool has been used, regardless of age, the value drops 50%. I have bought/sold/traded/given away tools for nearly 20 years now, and every tool nut and magazine I have come across verifies this.
If I was only looking at other cabinet saws, I would stick with the Unisaw, add a splitter and call it a day.
If you are dead set on getting another tablesaw, look into the Euro sliders. They offer more safety features than the American style cabinet saws, come with useable riving knifes, and most of the time your fingers are far away from the cutting action.

[Paul Johnstone]

Around here, a used Unisaw w/good fence system for about 1000 goes very quickly (Within Hours).

I'd start at $1300 as the "Asking price" on Craig's list, and let them talk you down to 1100-1200. If you get no activity, you can always lower the price.