Looking for 1/8" dowels

[Glen Blanchard]

I would like to secure some 1/8" smooth-sided dowels in a dark wood that would contrast well with maple - something like walnut, paduak, etc. Although I have found these in 1/4" and larger diameters, I have not been successful in finding them in smaller diameters - specifically 1/8".

Anyone know of a source?

[Gary Herrmann]

LV has maple (I think) 1/8" dowels. Maybe you could stain them.

[Glen Blanchard]

LV has maple (I think) 1/8" dowels. Maybe you could stain them.

Thanks Gary, but that won't work in this particular application. I want to use them to pin a rabetted dovetail joint. As such, once the dowel is glued in place it will be sanded flush with the drawer side. There goes the stain.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

How long of dowels, Glen?

If not real long, they are fairly easy to make with a dowel plate, which you can make. LN also sells a hardened plate for this. Better, but 3/16" or 1/4"mild steel with an 1/8" drill through it will work.

In the case of Walnut, cut square strips using your favorite method a hair larger than 1/8", point one end and gently tap it through the dowel plate. Best to use straight grained wood.

Open your bench vise a little to support the plate and enough to allow the resultant dowels to pass.

At 1/8" diameter, one cannot do longer than maybe a 6" length and even that may be iffy.

Take care, Mike

[Russ Buddle]

A few years ago, I bought dowels from Midwest Dowel Works. They had a large variety of species, and sizes. I do not know if they are still in business, but a search might find them. I believe they might have been in western Ohio?

[Howie French]

Glen, try Woodcraft... I have purchased 1/8" cherry and walnut dowels from them before.


Howie

[Cary Swoveland]

I don't recall seeing 1/8" plug cutters, and about the only widely-available 1/8" dowel is the stuff you find at building supply stores. You could try http://www.hastiles.com/dowel-rods.html , but most dowel mfgs. seem to want to sell in large lots.

If you stained one end of the dowel (as Gary suggested) why couldn't you have cut it to length first, then tap it in until it is flush with the surrounding wood? (You could probably get a snugger fit at the top of the hole by pinning the joint with 1/8" dowel that is countersunk, then tap in a very short piece of stained dowel to cover the hole.)

If you were prepared to change a design element, you could pin the joint with dowel, then chisel a small square at the top of the hole (maybe using a jig), glue in a piece of contrasting wood and sand flush.

Cary