A little metalwork on a 22114 TS...

[Brian Dormer]

I have a Craftsman 22114 TS :cool: and I'm all set to do this to it:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15533&highlight=craftsman+22114

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=15920&highlight=craftsman+22114

I picked up the steel angle iron at HD on the way home. Now I find myself with questions :eek:

1. Will a "standard" twist bit drill this stuff or do I need something exotic?

1A. If I need to "shorten it" (the stock is 6 ft long - I may only need 5 ft) will a hacksaw (or a metal cutting blade on a reciprocating saw or jig saw) cut this stuff?

2. It's nasty dirty stuff (black grime) and has some rusting on it. I presume I can just use a wire-wheel on a drll and/or sponge/sanding blocks to clean it up?

3. In the posts cited above, Jason Sanko had his iron powder coated. I don't have access to that (although there are local places in the yellow pages that do) - AND I'm concerned that the powder coat has a thickness to it that will throw off the measurements (is there more that one type of powder coat - a thick and a thin?) - Once I cut it, drill it and clean it up, what about just spraying KRYLON on it?

As you can tell - metal work isn't my thing. Sorry if these are STUPID questions :confused: but I'd rather ask than ruin tools.

TIA -

bd

[Randy Moore]

Brian,

I work with that stuff almost every day.
The answer to your questions is YES, YES, YES.:) :) :)
Regular drill bits work just don't go fast. You can cut that with everything you mentioned and you can paint it.
HTH and let us know how it turns out.

Randy

[Matt Meiser]

Unless you have really cheap drill bits you'll be fine. Personally, I'd go for the recip. saw over the other choices. And you might wipe it down with laquer thinner or alcohol before using the wire wheel so you don't fling too much of the grime everywhere.

[Joe Chritz]

You already got your answer but to add on.

I have made many pieces of dog agility from hot rolled steel (plain angle or tubing) and painted it with several different things.

I finally settled on rustoleum. I sprayed the stuff from the gallon just to save money but have done several with spray bomb. I used primer also which seems to help.

Outside you will need to redo it every other year or so. Inside it will last forever I would assume.

Matt's advice is sound. I used some prep stuff from an old car painting project but thinner would do just as well.

Go slow with the bits and a drop of oil helps but isn't really needed unless you are cutting or drilling a lot.

Joe

[Gary McKown]

I did essentially the same thing 10 years ago to provide extended rails on an old, old Craftsman contractor saw with the angle iron rails. No special problems except to be reasonably careful with locating the mounting holes.

I spray primed/painted (Delta grey, just for grins) the parts that do not contact the fence, but for the contact areas I just emory'ed it smooth and keep it waxed. Hasn't offered to rust in a decade.

[Brian Dormer]

I hadn't thought about wax .vs. paint - that's a great tip. There will be some friction wear on the rear of the saw, where the rip fence rides on the rear rail - so I'll keep that waxed up good.

Also appreciate the tip about wiping down with laquer thinner prior to wire wheeling it. I may just do a little of that now, to get the "black grime" off it. (I came home with black grit all over my hands - my wife thought I had to change a flat tire or something)

I will probably CAREFULLY mark, cut and drill in the next week or two - then when I get a nice weekend (MD is still a bit chilly), do the wire work and painting (well, primer, then paint). I will take a look at Rustoleum as suggested. I'm not too picky about color (as the metal will barely be visible from the front). Black, Gray or perhaps "Craftsman Red" would be the most appropriate. Gray is the current front runner.

THANK YOU ALL for you advice - I'm feeling much more confident about being able to pull this off now. ;)

bd

[Matt Calder]

Brian,
For removing the black coating nothing beats an angle grinder. You will spend $50 for a new one, and save hours over sanding or using those silly wheels that attach to electric drills. The flap sanding discs will take off the coating and leave shiny bare metal as quick as you please. Be aware, no matter how you do it, if you do it inside, the dust goes everywhere.

Matt

[Brian Dormer]

Matt -

I'm waiting for warmer weather to do the sanding/grinding and painting operation. My workshop spray area just isn't set up to handle something 6 feet long (one disadvantage of a small shop).

I will look into getting an angle grinder - although I have never done (and probably won't do) a lot of metal work. I suppose I can look at prices or pick up a "throw-away" grinder at HF (they are occasionally good for something).

Edit: Just checked the HF site - they have a 4 in grinder for $9.99 - the most expensive is still under 40 bucks. I think I could swing that. :End Edit.

Thanks for the tip.

bd