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Mike K Wenzloff
03-08-2007, 11:11 AM
Hi Everyone,

I was asked this morning about my experience of building one of these planes from the "kits" that Paul Hamler [http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/Hamler.htm, hamlertools@hotmail.com] recently made available. Paul is a great craftsman--take a look at the link above!

Paul fully made about 400 of these planes and sold them for $800...and even though I thought them beautiful, a bit over what I could part with. So when he made available 80 of them as so-called kits for $400, well, I broke open a couple piggy banks and bought one.

They are assembled for shipping, here's what I received:

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/miller_0001.jpg

What needs to happen to take one from this state to a completed state varies from person to person as to how much effort one desires to expend. First task is to disassemble it. Remove the skate thumbscrews and remove the skate. Pull off the Rosewood knob. Remove the depth stop on the far side. Pull out the two long brass pins which hold the chip deflector on and the thumb lever for the blade lock. Unscrew the bolt you can see at the end of the iron. Then on to the work.

For me, it was to first file off the small seams from the mold. To get into the smaller areas, I used some small needle files, but I didn't go after the areas really difficult to get to. The seams are still there, but hardly noticable.

Next it was to file off where the bit of casting at the top of the handle where the pour of bronze was made into the casting. You can see it in the above picture on the top of the handle. This needs filed carefully if you want or care that it blends in to the shape of the horn.

There are a few other places on the removable parts which need filed. Then the whole thing was sanded. On the areas I filed, I started with 120 grit sandpaper. Once those areas were sanded to 220 grit, I took the Dremel with a polishing wheel and went over the entire plane. I also used a bolt the same diameter as the skate rods to slide through the knob and mout it into the chuck on my drill press to sand the knob. I didn't think what little it needed required digging out the lathe.

Then steel wool, being careful to not go all the way into the textured areas. Then wax was applied to the whole thing.

Next task will be to make a couple irons for it. The kit comes with a single 1/4" O1 iron which will need hardened and tempered. So that will await my making a couple other sizes. But, if you don't want to do your own blades, Jim Reed [if interested PM me for his contact info] is making ready-to-go irons for a good price.

I did not do as perfect a job as some people I know who have done these kits. The entire process above took about 3 hours of work.

And this is the result:

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/plow/miller_0003.jpg

http://www.wenzloffandsons.com/temp/plow/miller_0004.jpg

Take care, Mike

Louis Bois
03-08-2007, 11:19 AM
Lovely job on the cleanup Mike! It's amazing the level of detail one can attain from using the "lost-wax casting" process. I'm assuming this will be going on a shelf somewhere and not next to those grubby LN planes:D

Cheers,

Mike K Wenzloff
03-08-2007, 11:33 AM
Ha--nope. It's a user. Which is why I'll make a couple irons for it. Does go in a drawer in my bench, though, with other plows I use like a Record 043, and Record 050, as well as a tradition wedge-arm plow.

Only have a couple metal planes left. A couple block planes. Else they are all wood planes.

Take care, Mike

jeremy levine
03-08-2007, 12:12 PM
"..Dremel with a polishing wheel..

With or without compound ?

Mike K Wenzloff
03-08-2007, 12:44 PM
Hi Jeremy, the ones I used are a rough texter, more like ScotchBrite pads. I'll see if I can find a picture of them on-line...be right back...

http://66.77.255.87/Images/DREMELACCESS/511E_D/WEB_LG/511e_lg.jpg

It took two of these wheels.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/attachments-and-accessories/attachment-accessory-detail.htm?H=188569&G=66429&I=69883

Take care, Mike

Tony Sade
03-08-2007, 1:58 PM
. . . There are a few other places on the removable parts which need filed. Then the whole thing was sanded. On the areas I filed, I started with 120 grit sandpaper. Once those areas were sanded to 220 grit. . .

Hey, Mike.

It's not clear from this passage of your great post what your sanding regimen was for the areas you didn't have to file. Straight to 220? Just thought folks who also ordered one of these kits might want to know. :rolleyes: Also-what's the red cast in your picture-a lighting artifact of some kind?

Cheers,

Mike K Wenzloff
03-08-2007, 2:08 PM
Hey, Mike.

It's not clear from this passage of your great post what your sanding regimen was for the areas you didn't have to file. Straight to 220? Just thought folks who also ordered one of these kits might want to know. :rolleyes: Also-what's the red cast in your picture-a lighting artifact of some kind?

Cheers,
Hi Tony--good catch. Yep, only areas which had a file touched to them had coarser sandpaper than the 220. And looking at my little bit of torn-up sandpaper, I may have used some 320 grit. Wish sandpaper manufacturers would color-code their paper for a a person as slow as me. That or mark the backs better.

But I used scraps of sandpaper. So it was fairly worn down anyway.

Ah, the red cast. An artifact of light bouncing off of purple walls, actually. The little booth is set up is in our bedroom. Too bright a day and that's what I get. And why purple wall paint? Seeing how I only sleep in the thing I didn't care when my wife wanted purple paint <g>.

Take care, Mike

David Carroll
03-10-2007, 8:53 PM
Mike,

Thanks for the post. I hope mine turns out as well!

I got it in the mail today, what a beauty!

David C.

Mike K Wenzloff
03-10-2007, 10:04 PM
Hi David--I suspect most people's will turn out nicer than this one if they want. It is just a matter of how much time to spend.

Make sure to plop some pictures in here!

Take care, Mike

Joe Rogers
03-12-2007, 12:58 PM
Met Mr. Hamler at the PATINA sale Saturday. Real nice gentleman. Those plow planes are beautys. About as nice as the little dovetail Wenzloff saw I fondled at "The Best Things" table.:D Nice work on the saw and the plow. (wish I went with about $600 more in my pocket)JR

Mike K Wenzloff
03-12-2007, 1:26 PM
Hi Joe--I'm jealous! The man is a true artisan, a craftsman of top caliber. While I was aware of who he was and the things he did, it wasn't until I got this that I had an inkling of the level of work he must go through. He's on my list of people to meet one day.

Thank you for the kind words.

Take care, Mike

Rusty Miller
03-12-2007, 1:57 PM
Mike, you are just too humble. Your saws are fantasic and I am proud to own one of your dovetail saws.

Rusty
60056

Joe Rogers
03-12-2007, 7:03 PM
" The man is a true artisan, a craftsman of top caliber. While I was aware of who he was and the things he did, it wasn't until I got this that I had an inkling of the level of work he must go through. He's on my list of people to meet one day."

Well truth be told I wasn't alone when I met Paul...He was chatting with Stephen Thomas of Loopy fame at the time. Can I say I was truly enjoying myself at that moment:DJR

Jim Becker
03-12-2007, 8:05 PM
Mike, that's a really beautiful tool. It's really amazing what works of art many of the older tool designs are...both un-tailed and tailed if you go back far enough. There was a sense of style that is just plan missing in most tools these days with minor exceptions.

Joel Ficke
03-12-2007, 8:31 PM
Mike, Is this a minature or a full-sized plane? Beautiful either way, but I'm curious. If it's full-sized, any idea if 'kits' are still available?

Joe Rogers
03-12-2007, 9:07 PM
Joel,use the second link to e-mail Paul personally. As of Saturday there was at least 1 left at noon. They sell for $4oo. They are beautiful and full sized.
Jim Reed in Florida is making blade sets. You can reach him by emailing him at jimreed2160@yahoo.com
His blades are top notch.
Hope that helps.JR