Sliding table for Sawstop. Exaktor or Jessem?

[David Wambolt]

I'm interested in purchasing a sliding table for my Sawstop. I've narrowed it down to three choices:

1. Jessem Mast-R-Slide
2. Exaktor EX26S
3. Exaktor EX26XS

Personally I'm leaning towards the Exaktor because I know it's a more sturdy solution when handling larger sheet goods. However space utilization is a concern of mine and that's why I'm writing this. I could go with the EX26S with the 48" rails and that combined with the larger table on the Sawstop will not take all that much more space. However I'm limited to a 36" crosscut. The EX26XS has 78" rails and allows for a 60" crosscut which is more than I'd need, but the space used by the rails is quite a bit more. Now I'm considering doing something crazy at a risk of roughly $75. I could buy the EX26XS and if the rails are too large I could cut them down to a smaller size. Or perhaps I could get crafty and perhaps make some brackets so that I could cut them down and then reattach the extension as needed for those rare times I need a longer crosscut. Would it work? I have no idea because I have not seen the Exaktor in person. I know I can buy another set of rails from Exaktor. I know the mobile base limitation, but I also know I can make angular supports to hold the table during movement.

The Jessem looks like a nice slider, but I'm concerned it may not have the capacity for the long term. It would certainly be the easiest to install. Price wise, it's a bit cheaper than the Exaktor. It looks cooler, takes less space and works with a mobile base. I'm just not sure.

HELP!

[Pete Brown]

There are also the slider add-ons from Laguna (http://www.lagunatools.com/tablesaws_accessories.htm). I have no experience with them, but they may be worth evaluating.

Pete

[Doug Mason]

I have the Jessem slider and am not overly impressed with it; in fact, I'm thinking of taking it off. For me, it is just too delicate (i.e., not sturdy enough) and I'm always checking it for accuracy. I need total accuracy for my joinery and a sled gives me better results. On the other hand, some people really like the Jessem slider (so take my opinion w/a grain of salt!!) and get good results w/it. I have never seen the Exaktor.

[Mike Heidrick]

Dave, check you PM about a possible deal on a slider.

[David Wambolt]

Well I'm leaning towards the EX26XS and I can always cut down the rails or order the shorter ones. Anyone else? Does anyone have any pictures of their Exaktor set up?

[frank shic]

david, if you want to be able to crosscut sheet goods efficiently, you're going to need to invest in the larger model like the exaktor 40 or the 60. i had a delta sliding table previously which had a table width of approximately 16" and i would have to first cut the sheet stock down with a circular saw first. if you're going to stay with the smaller capacity, the jessem looks like a much better deal and you won't be banging into the legs.

[Keith Weber]

David,

First the Dynasty 300DX, and now a SawStop! You just have to keep one-upping me, don't you? :D Just Kidding!

I have the Exactor EX26XS and I love it! I chose to leave the left wing on the saw. It is very smooth and very accurate. For ripping, I usually just loosen the two handles with the orange buttons on them, and slide the fence to the left to get it out of the way. It takes literally 5-10 seconds to do this, and to put it back. The fence can be completely removed if needed as well.

I initially had it mounted so that the ends of the rails were flush with the saw's fence rail. This gave me 20" capacity with the fence at the front of the table, and 60" at the rear. Since 60" is too much, 20" was too little, and it's safer pushing plywood with the fence than having the fence lead, I decided to move it forward until the forward mounting hole was just behind the rounded corner on my wing. This brought it ahead 9-1/2", giving me 29-1/2" capacity with the fence at the front and 50-1/2" at the rear. Much better in my opinion! I have never felt that the protruding rails got in my way.

It's solid, handles full sheets of plywood easily, and all my cuts are square. No more 89.5 degree corners! I don't think that the Jessem can crosscut a full sheet, but I've never really looked at them.

As far as cutting the rails down, unless your shop is constricted, they shouldn't get in the way if you have an outfeed table. My rails extend 36" from the back of my saw, which coincidentally ties in well to the size of my outfeed table.

Keith W.

Keith

[David Wambolt]

Keith,

Thank you for the picture. I just went ahead and ordered the Exaktor EX26XS. Amazon has a 20% off promotion right now, which brought the total to $646.94 shipped.

I too was already thinking about mounting the rails further forward to gain more cross cut capacity with the fence at the front. I'm not sure if I will install the left fence on my Sawstop or not. It's still in the crate as I put the finishing touches on my new shop. I don't have a lot of space and have more equipment than I probably should. But hey, I'll figure something out.

As for the Dynasty, well I didn't mention that I also owned a Dynasty 200DX at the same time. 200DX, 300DX, 350P and the Passport added up to a lot of investment in welders. So I sold the watercooled 200DX and kept the air cooled contractor kit to use on the 300DX if I needed it. :)

[Keith Weber]

David,

Wow! That's a good price. Once again, you've out-done me! :D I ordered mine directly from the company, but that was a while ago. I don't think that they were using dealers at the time. I just called them up and said that I was on the fence and 10% off would seal the deal. One of my SS rails showed up misdrilled. I called their customer service and they sent another one out right away without making me send the faulty one back first. Customer service was very good. They were a small company at the time.

I checked out that 20% Amazon deal to see if there's anything I need. No luck! About the only thing I want right now is a Wagner moisture meter, and they're not on sale. :(

The nice thing about leaving the wing on is that you can rip wider material without having to remove the fence. It can just be slid out of the way as far as the left edge of the right rail.

The nice thing about removing it is that the sliding table is closer to the blade, thereby allowing shorter pieces to ride at least partially on the sliding table instead of the wing.

For me, the first benefit outweighed the second. Your results may vary.

I don't have a cooler for my Dynasty. My right hand has gotten a little toasty a couple of times, but I'm never in a hurry, so I just take a break for a bit if it gets hot. As much as I'd like one, I don't really see myself getting one for the amount that I weld.

Keith

[CPeter James]

Here is my setup. Note that the legs sit on a platform supported on angle irons that are attached to the saw. I like that better because the saw and slider are now one and it makes it easier to clean the floor. I have had the slider for at least ten year and really like it. I don't use it for whole sheets of plywood, so did not get the bigger unit. I have 24" with the fence in the front and 36" with it in the back.

http://home.metrocast.net/~cpjvkj/pm66.jpg

cpeter

[Bill Fleming]

I too am going thru much of what you folks are thinking about or have done... but I keep asking myself... "Why not just buy a MiniMax sliding tablesaw?"

But a SawStop with a good slider, configure some type of mobility base, then get it into adjustment and keep it there.... I just want to keep building and do it efficiently, accurately, fast, and repeatable.

Cheers, Bill

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I have the Jessem slider and am not overly impressed with it; in fact, I'm thinking of taking it off. For me, it is just too delicate (i.e., not sturdy enough) and I'm always checking it for accuracy.

I hear that from a lot of add-on slider owners.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

There are also the slider add-ons from Laguna (http://www.lagunatools.com/tablesaws_accessories.htm). I have no experience with them, but they may be worth evaluating.

I was looking at the laguna TSS with the slider. I can say with absolute confidence that their slider is only for their saws. They build their saws so that you can simply lift the 80 pounds of cast iron table top (to the left of the blade) off the saw and bolt the slider in it's place. It goes right up against the blade.

This can't be done to any other saw on the market cause they aren't built to accept the thing.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I too am going thru much of what you folks are thinking about or have done... but I keep asking myself... "Why not just buy a MiniMax sliding tablesaw?"
Or a Felder or Hammer. Yah exactly why not just get a real slider.


But a SawStop with a good slider, configure some type of mobility base, then get it into adjustment and keep it there.... I just want to keep building and do it efficiently, accurately, fast, and repeatable.


Mobility and add on sliders constitutes a contradiction in terms. Adjusting a slider is time consuming and you'll adjust an add-on slider often enough as it is. Adding mobility will I'm rather sure will trash your adjustments even if all you do is bump the set up. I susspect it'll make it inherrently unstable.

The saw stop is all about safety. They also did some nice things to the saw itself making the table bigger than usual and beefing up the trunnion. But still it's really all about that electronic gizmo that is supposed to protect you.

Real sliders - are such a dream to use and they make almost everything you do so very much easier. They are accurate super repeatable and speedy. They are also safe as can be as theyplace the operator away from the blade.

You would be able to switch from cutting on some angle back to 90 degrees and then back again treally fast without any messing around any checking and - - without having to do a test cut to see if your angle is right. You set it and cut.

You can toss an 8" sheet of play on the thing lengthwise and rip along the 8" length dead true and square.

Armed with a good slider you will quickly realise that factory square & straight edges on sheet stock are neither straight nor square - and you'll never have to trust 'em again.

All that said if your work habits are sloppy regarding your hands and blades maybe you should just get the saw stop. No one can guarantee you that the electronic gizmo will be working on whatever day in whatever year you have your first accident (electronics are after all subject to failure) but if it does work you will be better off for it.

[Pete Brown]

This can't be done to any other saw on the market cause they aren't built to accept the thing.

They have a roll-up slider that looks to work with anything. In fact, they picture it next to a bandsaw on their site. It's expensive.

PEte