SawStop Question

[Anthony Anderson]

Today I ordered the 3hp version 52" fence SawStop. I had thought about upgrading to the 5hp version, but decided against it. Tonight I told my wife the cost of the saw, and told her about the 5hp upgrade that I decided not to get. She tells me that since I spent that much money on the saw, then I should have just went with the upgrade:eek:. Now I am thinking who is this imposter posing as my wife:confused:, but do not question the response.

I still should be able to change the order. What do you guys think? Is the 5hp worth the extra $210 (incl. tax)? I am upgrading from a Craftsman Contractor Saw (about 15 years old) that is 1.5hp. I am going to be in woodworking paradise regardless which way I go, but would like your thoughts.

Also, can I use Freud Red Coated Blades with the SawStop?

The SawStop is going into my basement shop (We have a walkout basement with four steps to get from ground level into the basement). For those who have put the SawStop in their basement shop, did you remove the table, motor, and other ?? to get it into the basement?

I appreciate any advice that you can give me. I have waited a long time to get this saw, I can't believe that I will have one soon. I will post pics and do a shop tour (although a really small shop), something that I have been wanting to do for a long time, as I have learned a great deal from shop tours that people were kind enough to post. Thanks a bunch, Bill

[Roy Wall]

Anthony,

Yes -can use the Freud Red teflon blades.....good choices! I've used the 50 tooth combo (red) AND standard finish 30 T rip from Freud.

Secondly..... I have the 3hp.......wished I had gotten the 5 hp initially.....but now - a couple years later I must admit the 3hp has been more than adequate.
3hp motor uses a 20 amp breaker....while I imagine you move to a 30 amp breaker for the 5hp.

So - technically I suppose.... 3 hp is sufficient because the saw blade max height cut is 3+ inches and the motor is able to handle it.....and personally, I'd rather rip the thick stuff on the band saw anyway.

With all that being said.......for $210 you can't go wrong getting the 5hp upgrade - then you have no regrets forever! Cast Iron and Horse Power are a beautiful combo:) Make your own PB&J lunches a couple times a week for 10 weeks out of the year and the extra hp is paid for.:cool:

congrats!

[Gregg Feldstone]

I think the $210 is certainly worth a couple more horsepower and the added weight and stability. What I am wondering is if the safety cartrige can stop the 5HP motor as fast as the 3HP motor? If there's a difference, I would go with the faster one.

[Roy Wall]

I think the $210 is certainly worth a couple more horsepower and the added weight and stability. What I am wondering is if the safety cartrige can stop the 5HP motor as fast as the 3HP motor? If there's a difference, I would go with the faster one.

Gregg - no difference.......the arbor speed is the same - all brakes activate within 4-5 ms...very fast indeed!

[Mike Heidrick]

I paid the $210 on mine. Did not see a reason to only spend $4100 insteas of $4300. Did I need it - no.

The brake assembly also stops the 7.5hp 3 phase version ($530 upgrade - I passed on this) so it will be just fine on the 5hp.

Get the 5hp if you can.

The saw is a beast. I do not envy your basement decent. Be very very careful.

Call sawstop and ask them the safest way to disassemble it.

[Calvin Crutchfield]

Ditto. for $210 it is a good investment. I got my SS 5hp delivered today. Everything went together nicely, top notch. I had a General 650 3hp prior and I dont know to explain it, but running some wood through the SS feels different. Kinda like the wood is less significant. I'm not sure if it's the extra 2hp, the 30% more iron or a combination of both, but it is nice.

If you can afford it, even barely, I'd get the upgrade.

[David Wambolt]

5hp! Get the Ferrari, not the Hyundai! lol.

I went with the 5hp. I figured, I was spending that much money, what's $200 at that point. Did I need it? Oh you know I didn't, but hey.. why not?

[Heather Deans]

The 5 hp is great, but make sure you have enough power for it! You may need an upgrade.....

The motor, ect are all internal.... and the table extensions/rail system are boxed seperate. I'm not sure how you would disassemble it any more. If you have to, I would second calling the company. Be careful- its Heavy!

Enjoy!

[Rich Person]

Yes, you can use coated blades. The teeth are not coated, and that is where you will pick up the signal for the brake.

I have the 3 hp version and haven't had any real need for more. I cut a bunch of 8/4 hard maple with no problem. The only time it slowed a little was trying to resaw some purpleheart with the blade all the way up. But purpleheart is pretty dense stuff. I guess if money is not an issue then you might as well get the 5 hp--no reason not to.

[Tom Ruflin]

I have the 3hp and have had no problems cutting any wood that I have. I have my SS in the basement shop, I took the table off - 4 bolts I think and remember to loosen the set screws that align the top. I then used an appliance dolly and the help of a friend to go up 3 steps into the house and then down a flight of stairs into the basement one step at a time. I had no problems and also had my friend help with putting the top back on top of the saw.

[Anthony Anderson]

Thanks to everyone. I called and changed the order this morning, to a 5hp. It will take longer to get in, as the store does not have one in stock, so probably a few weeks since it has to come from SawStop. Can't wait. I checked the power supply last night, as I had 220 wired in the shop because I hoped that someday, (proof that if you wait long enough someday will come), I would be able to upgrade to a cabinet saw. It has a 40 amp 220 circuit. Do I need to change the breaker to a 30 amp, or will the 40 amp breaker be okay, without causing any problems? Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it. Regards, Bill

[Roy Wall]

I think that sounds like too much....probably 30 amp...the 3hp only draws 13 amps...so my guess the 5hp will only draw around 20 amps...plus the startup "spike" . Call SS back to double check - it's only 3 pm in Oregon!

[Eric Wong]

5HP is definitely the cadillac, but when would 3HP really be inadequate? I have a 1.5HP contractor saw, and even with that the only time I wish I had more HP is when cutting 3" thick oak.

Besides, you can find a 5HP Leeson motor for only $300, so is the upgrade really a bargain?

[Ben Grunow]

Anthony, I'm sure you have downloaded the manual (and made your desktop pic a SS pic like the rest of us did until the saw arrived) but be sure to pay attention to the section on adjusting the clearance between the brake and blade as all blades are slightly different in diameter and the SS blade is the smallest I have seen. I did not have to adjust my brake cartridge but it is possible and easy and important to safety.

Have enough power for the 5 hp in the panel?

Congrats and I know you will enjoy it,

Ben

[Dick Strauss]

Anthony,
Just to be on the safe side, I'd call SS to check on coated TS blades like the Freud you mention. SS may also recommend against using blade lubes as well. You are spending the extra money to get the fine saw with the SS technology. You better take full advantage and make sure the brakes will work if they are needed.

[Mike Heidrick]

The instructions specifically say:


4. Do not use saw blades or dado sets that have a lacquer or other coating on the teeth. These coatings are
non-conductive and therefore can reduce the speed at which the system detects contact. In other words, a coated
tooth must cut slightly deeper into the skin for contact to be detected, resulting in a somewhat more serious injury.
Used blades that originally had a lacquer coating are OK to use since the coating is worn away within a few uses.

However, SawStop recommends that you examine each tooth on such blades to confirm that no lacquer remains. If
you decide to use a new blade that has lacquer on the teeth, be especially carefully during the first several uses.

[Kirk Poore]

...I checked the power supply last night, as I had 220 wired in the shop because I hoped that someday, (proof that if you wait long enough someday will come), I would be able to upgrade to a cabinet saw. It has a 40 amp 220 circuit. Do I need to change the breaker to a 30 amp, or will the 40 amp breaker be okay, without causing any problems? Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it. Regards, Bill

Leave the 40 amp breaker. The breaker is sized to protect the wiring, not the motor, so assuming you've got the right size wire the 40 amp breaker is correct and you can save your money. Your saw will have a starter on it sized to protect the motor from overloads.

Kirk

[Ted Miller]

The 5 hp 1 ph motor is 20.5 amps so lock rotor would be no more than 25 amps...

[Eric Wong]

The 5 hp 1 ph motor is 20.5 amps so lock rotor would be no more than 25 amps...

Lock rotor?

[Anthony Anderson]

Thanks Ben, I have not had a chance to download the manual yet, but probably tonight or tomorrow. I definately want to do that, so I am ready when it arrives. I never thought of the SawStop desktop pic, but now that you mention it....:). Thanks for the tip on the blade to cartridge adjustment, I will pay particular attention to that. Can't wait I called this morning to make sure there were no problems with the order. And the sales rep. said it shoudl have left the warehouse in Washington today, and should arrive by next week hopefully. Thanks again, Bill


Anthony, I'm sure you have downloaded the manual (and made your desktop pic a SS pic like the rest of us did until the saw arrived) but be sure to pay attention to the section on adjusting the clearance between the brake and blade as all blades are slightly different in diameter and the SS blade is the smallest I have seen. I did not have to adjust my brake cartridge but it is possible and easy and important to safety.

Have enough power for the 5 hp in the panel?

Congrats and I know you will enjoy it,

Ben

[Anthony Anderson]

Ted I was wondering the same thing. I am pretty electrical illiterate, other that the basic wiring. Thanks, Bill


Lock rotor?

[Yuchol Kim]

Lock rotor?

Lock rotor means if your motor stoped completely (i.e. wood jammed or something). When a motor stalls, it consumes more current than while running.

[Anthony Anderson]

Ah, Now I know. Thanks for the answer Yuchol. And if this hasn't been done, WELCOME to Sawmill Creek. I noticed that this is your second post. Glad to have you here. Regards, Bill



Lock rotor means if your motor stoped completely (i.e. wood jammed or something). When a motor stalls, it consumes more current than while running.

[Dick Strauss]

Anthony,
The Freud blade does not have any lacquer or coating on the teeth but it does have the coating on the body. However, if the system relies on a current passed through the blade, the coating may impede the electrical contact if it is needed (especially if the coating is teflon which is a very good insulator). You may have to remove the coating where the blade makes electrical contact (possibly around the arbor nut, etc) to have it function properly. I'm sure that the manufacturer can give you a definitive statement on using Freud's red coated blades.

It may induce a current without any physical contact. In this case, the Freud coating probably wouldn't matter.

[Ted Baca]

I guess it depends on what you plan to cut. I have the 3HP and cannot see that I ever slowed the blade or feed rate down due to inadequate power. I replaced a Craftsman 1 1/2 hp and I can only say WOW what power. I cut Oak, Purpleheart, is probably the hardest stuff I have run through. I am not a production shop, just a home sawdust producer.
I feel that the extra 210.00 can buy a few blades, mobile base, better mitre guage etc. It is up to you if you think you want the 5HP get it now if you think you will always regret not getting it. Take advantage of the wifes "temporary" state of mind and buy other "toys" before she gets better. But beware she may be setting you for a new SUV, Room addition, wardrobe etc. I started out to but a 1000.00 cabinet saw but then saw the PM2000 and almost bought it, but decided on a no regret purchase and bought the SS. And there are no regrets so far, Enjoy you new SS which ever HP you get.

[Ted Miller]

Sorry guys, lock rotor is the current draw from a electric motor at start up til it reaches full running power. You know like when you fire up the TS and your lights dim just for a sec, lock rotor...

[Don Bullock]

...I feel that the extra 210.00 can buy a few blades, mobile base, better mitre guage etc. It is up to you if you think you want the 5HP get it now if you think you will always regret not getting it. Take advantage of the wifes "temporary" state of mind and buy other "toys" before she gets better. But beware she may be setting you for a new SUV, Room addition, wardrobe etc. I started out to but a 1000.00 cabinet saw but then saw the PM2000 and almost bought it, but decided on a no regret purchase and bought the SS. And there are no regrets so far, Enjoy you new SS which ever HP you get.

I am contemplating the same question and am starting to agree with Ted's decision. I know I'll need a dado set. Perhaps that would be a better use of the $200.

[Ted Baca]

Anthony I am using 10/3 wiring with a 30 amp breaker and haven't had any "trips" yet. The SS has a breaker in the switchbox as well. I have to add, even if the SS didn't have the blade brake it is one hell of a good saw. Very well thought out and built. Now that the check has been sent I never look back.

[Don Bullock]

Speaking of wiring for a SawStop, what type of 220 plug does it have and how long is the electrical cord on it? I'm having my electrician come over next week for an estimate for adding 220 to my shop along with some more 110 outlets. He'll need that information.

[Dave Hale]

Don,

The SS doesn't come with a plug. You'll need to get your own wire, or have the electrician do it, and plug. I'd suggest a Twist-Lock so you can easily disconnect if needed. Get some ring terminals too. There's another post, with pics, that'll help explain.

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=46772

[Don Bullock]

Dale, thanks for the link. Now that I see it, I remember reading that link, but at the time I wasn't in the market for a SawStop. The hookup looks fairly easy.

Maybe I can get the dealer to throw that in as a perk. It's worth a try. I already have them uncrating the saw, checking all the tolerances and placing it on a base before it is delivered. All but $50 of the home delivery has been thrown too.

[Randy Rhine]

Even though another poster on this thread (Roy Wall) said that the red coated Freud blades work on his saw, they don't work on mine. I received one in the mail today and when I installed it, the error code flahed and indicated that the blade was not conductive. I'm wonder if maybe Roy scraped off the coating around where the blade make contact with the spindle. Or maybe I have a saw with updated programming or circuitry. It's a fairy new saw...about 1 month old.

Anybody wanna buy a blade?

randy