What to do with Cocobolo!

[Lee Schierer]

I have been given a piece of cocobolo (2 X 3 X 24) and need to get the collective knowledge from all of you on how to work with it. It appears to be a very dense wood and therefore; I wonder what glue and glue technique works best with it. Any finishes that are better or that should be avoided when working with it. Sawing or milling techniques that work or don't work?

I'm also open to project ideas for it. What have any of you made with it. All turning options are out, I don't have a lathe and don't have room for one either. No I won't send it to you. :p

Yes, I'm aware that some people are sensitive to the dust.

[jerry cousins]

hey lee - cocobolo can be used real nicely as an accent piece - boxes, table inlays. it really does take the edges off tools, and even though it feels pretty oily it seems to glue ok.
word of caution - when finishing it can "bleed" into other woods (kinda like paduk).

if you do veneering, could slice it up for a small box.

jerry

[Julie Wright]

I made a duck call out of some.
Accent pieces on jewelry boxes would be very nice.

Let us see the finished project.

[Doug Littlejohn]

So far, the replys hit it right on the head. I also used a piece about that size and made a tea/serving tray for SWMBO. I resawed the coco to about 3/8 finished size for the frame and used a piece of /14" ply veneered both sides for the bottom.

I used Gorilla glue for the coco and wiped down the joints with acetone first, then water for the poly. I used a centerd spline down each of the 4 mitered joints and then added in 2 cross keys, each angled down about 30 degrees. This I figured would make a positive 'locking' joint and rely less upon the glue for strength.

I made a very beautiful tray and several years later, it's still holding together fine.

Absolutely fantasticaly beautiful wood that coco, I know you will enjoy it.

Oh, also don't forget that it is very reactive to many people. After doing the full sanding thing on the four pieces, I had a terrible rash for several days on my hands and lower arms.

The reaction was very similar to poison oak on me, so watch exposure and you definitley don't want to breathe the dust!!

[Wolf Kiessling]

I have been given a piece of cocobolo (2 X 3 X 24) and need to get the collective knowledge from all of you on how to work with it. It appears to be a very dense wood and therefore; I wonder what glue and glue technique works best with it. Any finishes that are better or that should be avoided when working with it. Sawing or milling techniques that work or don't work?

I'm also open to project ideas for it. What have any of you made with it. All turning options are out, I don't have a lathe and don't have room for one either. No I won't send it to you. :p

Yes, I'm aware that some people are sensitive to the dust.

I have never personally worked with cocobolo but I think I read somewhere that you should glue it up with polyurethane glue. I understand that this works best with these oily exotics. I know for sure it works great when used to glue up pieces that will be exposed to moisture since moisture cures it.

Wolf

I wish I had that piece, I would love to turn it....

[Mike Kelly]

About all I've made with it is pens. I used CA to glue it to the brass barrel. I have a piece like yours that I have had looking at me for ten years now. Maybe I should get inventive and make something too! From what I have heard, yellow glue works OK with it. Polyurethane may be a better choice as suggested by others here. Have fun with it.

[Jim Becker]

Lee, in addition to the workability of this species...which is excellent...take care relative to dust control. This member of the rosewood familiy is not something you want to breath. See http://www.mendelu.cz/~horacek/toxic.htm for more information.

[Bill Pentz]

Lee,

I attended a woodworking show many years ago where a Fein saleman was demonstrating one of their then new high-speed sanders with the micro fine abrasive sheet. He took a rough piece of cocobolo and within just a few minutes had it shining like it had twenty coats of lacquer on it by only using finer grades of sandpaper.

Liking that I bought myself a few pieces about the same size as what you have, resawed into 3/8" strips and built some fine 3x5 recipe boxes equally well shined up. I used hard rock maple for the splines, 1/8" oak plywood for the tops and bottoms, plus a trick I learned from Bob Cummins to make the lid sit on the bottom. I precut a groove on the inside of the pieces before gluing up with Gorilla glue. When the glue set, I used a spare piece and set my saw to make a groove on the outside of the box just above and almost touching the inside. By cutting all the way around the box, the result created a nice lip on the lower piece and groove that fit that lip nicely on the upper. It takes a little practice to get just right, but when you do the result is pretty nice. Also with a little more cleverness managed to make the grain go all the way around the box smoothly. Put on some shiny brass hinges and clip lock to create a real little treasure. In fact, gave one to each of the ladies in my world and ended up having to make new ones out of walnut because the originals were too nice looking to be put out. *smile*

When working with this wood be careful to protect your lungs as many react badly to its dust.

bill
http://cnets.net/%7Eeclectic/woodworking/Boxes/Example.gif http://cnets.net/%7Eeclectic/woodworking/Boxes/Example2.gif http://cnets.net/%7Eeclectic/woodworking/Boxes/Recipe_Box1.gif

[mike malone]

I have been given a piece of cocobolo (2 X 3 X 24) and the dust.

hi lee
most people are VERY sensitive to cocobo
unfortunately it is one of the greatest woods to turn for small lidded boxes and such. it works beautifully.
BUT>>>>
first your eyes will sting, then your skin around the eyes will burn, then your wrists and other parts of the anatomy will itch. DAMHIKT!!!

best to work this stuff in a scuba outfit!!
regards
mike

[Steven Wilson]

I have a fair amount of cocobolo around the shop and have used it as the infill in a steel dovetailed shoulder plane, a few turned pens, and a couple of cabinet door pulls. My next use will be for a pair of marking knives that I plan on making over the holidays when I have some time off (Ron Hock blades). Cocobolo works fairly nice and can be glued with regular Titebond or Gorilla glue. Film finishes work well (lacquer, shellac), oil finishes might not cure. Wear gloves and a respirator when working with this stuff and make sure your blades are extreemly sharp.

[Mark Singer]

It is oily. I like using West Systems epoxy as a glue. Tightbond will also work. Sand it to 220 min and then wet sand it with tung oil to 600.Start wet sanding at 220 then 320 then 400 then 600. Daly's Ben Matte is a great oil. They are from Seattle/ They will send it.

[Dave Avery]

Lee,

As far as finishes are concerned, oil will NEVER dry. I've used shellac and wax with excellent results. Dave.

[Mark Singer]

The oil cures in about 48 hours and is dry to the touch. several coats are best. Pure tung oil drys extemely slowly but the oil I recommended , Daly's or Tried and True are polermerized and have driers. Shellac is a nice looling finish but you are not really touching the wood , it is like putting under a layer of thin plastic, not unlike a guitar finish. Sam Maloofs chairs have a finish which is oil a little varnish to help dry and wax. It gives it the feeling of handmade furniture and invites touching which is great with a dense wood like cocabola.

[Dave Avery]

Lee,

Here are some pcitures of the aforementioned project using cocobolo. Not that the pictures do the wood justice, but it's the nicest piece of cocobolo I've ever seen. The box itself is made from semi-quilted curly maple, right from the racks at HD. The cocobolo raised panel was but on the table saw as was the taper on the top and sides of the box. Dave.

[Mark Singer]

Here is a dining set I made. Wenge table and walnut chairs with oil finish.