Jeff Wright
03-05-2007, 1:08 PM
I just completed making and installing a sheetgoods rack and Triton wood racks. To be safe, I doubled up on the number of Triton racks using a total of four uprights. Their weakest link, IMO, are the 1/4 inch tapcons screwed into the block wall. Hopefully they won't go bump in the night.
I was going to build a sheetgoods rack on HD casters, but because that would have limited me to too few sheets due to design limitations, I went with a fixed rack (able to hold over 12 3/4 inch plys) with a roller on one end. While I intend to lift a ply out from the front (using my new Gorilla Gripper - see photo), should I need to retreive a panel deep in the deck, I can simply roll my bandsaw and Noden Adjust-a-Bench out from the wall and roll the panel on the roller out the rack's end. The slight angle of the sheetgood rack uprights seem to hold the panels against the wall nicely without being secured, yet keep the expensive panels ($92 for maple A/1 from my local hardwood yard) straight up and protected against warping.
As a relatively new-comer to woodworking, one of the most difficult things I face is being patient enough to allow newly delivered hardwoods to stabilize moisture-wise. I want to start ripping, jointing and planing NOW!
M0st of the sheetgoods rack was built from lumber left over from pallets from new delivery tools. I could build a house with what was left from the MiniMax 410 Elite and MM20. Interestingly, one of the plywood panels came from the garage loft storage area that I removed to give more workshop headroom. That 3/4 inch panel was more than 25 years old and measured in excess of 3/4 using the caliper whereas today's 3/4 inch fell far short of the 3/4 inch mark.
Now if I can only wait for the wood to stabilize!
I was going to build a sheetgoods rack on HD casters, but because that would have limited me to too few sheets due to design limitations, I went with a fixed rack (able to hold over 12 3/4 inch plys) with a roller on one end. While I intend to lift a ply out from the front (using my new Gorilla Gripper - see photo), should I need to retreive a panel deep in the deck, I can simply roll my bandsaw and Noden Adjust-a-Bench out from the wall and roll the panel on the roller out the rack's end. The slight angle of the sheetgood rack uprights seem to hold the panels against the wall nicely without being secured, yet keep the expensive panels ($92 for maple A/1 from my local hardwood yard) straight up and protected against warping.
As a relatively new-comer to woodworking, one of the most difficult things I face is being patient enough to allow newly delivered hardwoods to stabilize moisture-wise. I want to start ripping, jointing and planing NOW!
M0st of the sheetgoods rack was built from lumber left over from pallets from new delivery tools. I could build a house with what was left from the MiniMax 410 Elite and MM20. Interestingly, one of the plywood panels came from the garage loft storage area that I removed to give more workshop headroom. That 3/4 inch panel was more than 25 years old and measured in excess of 3/4 using the caliper whereas today's 3/4 inch fell far short of the 3/4 inch mark.
Now if I can only wait for the wood to stabilize!