Dominoes and plywood?

[peter slamp]

I'm seriously considering getting the domino. After much reading, I feel that I fall into the 'finished product' camp as opposed to the 'getting there' guys/gals. It seems like this tool will make my very limited playtime much more efficient. One question I have is if the dominoes would be a viable option in plywood-carcasse butt joinery? Also, would this give me as much stability as say dadoes and rabbets? I'm thinking that my next journey will be to tackle a larger bookcase and maybe a credenza. These would be larger pieces where stability would be a large concern. Can anyone with domino experience impart some wisdom on this curious noob before I break out the credit card? Thanks!:)

[David Dundas]

Peter,

You might consider making your bookcase with similar joinery to this child's coloring table that I made recently using dadoes and domino joinery. I found it easier to use dadoes rather than butt joints with dominoes; but it would certainly be quite feasibleto use butt joinery instead. The table is stabilized by the dominoed rails under the top and shelves.

David

[John Stevens]

One question I have is if the dominoes would be a viable option in plywood-carcasse butt joinery?:)

I don't have the domino yet, but in principle it's similar to biscuit joinery, the difference being in the size of the loose tenons. Biscuits make very strong joints in ply, so dominos should be at least as strong.

If you like working with cabinet-grade ply, then consider mitered joints--they look good and are more than strong enough for household furniture. The Festool TS55 makes it easy for you to cut 45 degree miters in sheet goods, so if you're going the Festool route, consider the TS55 and CT21 along with the Domino. I know it seems like a lot of money, but if you like the destination instead of the journey (like I do), the Festool equipment will get you there quickly and cleanly.

Regards,

John

[peter slamp]

Thanks guys! One question (stupid) though. What exactly would be considered 'cabinet grade' ply? I mean I assume it is of higher quality. Does it have a certain designation? The hardwood shop I usually buy from has baltic birch etc. Is there a certain 'grade' I should be looking for? Thanks.

[John Stevens]

What exactly would be considered 'cabinet grade' ply? I mean I assume it is of higher quality. Does it have a certain designation?

I go to a lumber yard that has a reputation for carrying high-quality lumber, and I buy what they sell. It's of similar quality to "baltic birch" but the surface veneers are of walnut, maple, African mahogany, cherry, and other hardwood species that people like to use for furniture. (I'll post a couple pics of a piece I made from maple-veneered ply in the design thread you started.) Sorry that I can't be more specific about the names and grades of "cabinet grade" ply, but I'm sure that others will chime in here.

[Don Bullock]

Thanks guys! One question (stupid) though. What exactly would be considered 'cabinet grade' ply? I mean I assume it is of higher quality. Does it have a certain designation? The hardwood shop I usually buy from has baltic birch etc. Is there a certain 'grade' I should be looking for? Thanks.

Surfaces are A/A or A/1. Others can add what to look for between those two, but MDF makes the best core for table tops. It makes the tops more "stable" than other core material.