Router Table design

[Tim Devlin]

Evening Creekers,
I am about to get into my router table for the Incra 25" LS that I got as a present. Attached is a jpg from Google Sketch that I had been poking around with as the design. It will be casters all around...the cylinders in the pic are just for proper height and swing reference. I was originally thinking of building a drawer between the casters that could hold the jig...but I do not think I have the clearance with the 3" casters.
The top will be double 3/4" sheets of MDF surrounded with either Red Oak or some other suitable hard wood. The cabinet will be 3/4" Oak ply...
Anyway, I posted to see if any of you have some advice on your build of such a tool. I have gleened quite a bit of knowledge lurking around as it is from you all, so thanks for all that.

Tim

[Dave Falkenstein]

You might get some ideas from this design:

http://www.jointech.com/routerstation.htm

The Jointech design is oriented the same way that your table is oriented.

If you would like a detailed description of how I made my double MDF laminated top, email me and I'll send you a Word document.

[Steven J Corpstein]

Tim,
I built the Jointech cabinet with some modifications, mostly the size. I have mine pictured at the below link.

http://www.datasystemsltd.com/router/

[Luke McFadden]

Your plans look great. A lot better than my single 3/4 mdf over a trash can "table".

What are the main differences between the jointech table and the New Yankee table?

I would build my own fence, so would the NYW be better plans?

L

[glenn bradley]

Just some ideas FWIW; I recessed the back of my cabinet to shrink the router compartment. From previous experience with my proto type cabinet this gave me better dust collection than trying to move the volume of air in the full depth compartment. This was just my experience and your DC, etc. will probably behave differently.

I have seen other designs where the compartment is left full depth but baffles have been added to alter the airflow through the compartment cavity. I also made a temporary door panel so I could mess with the vent holes till I got the best flow. Once I knew the best size and placement of holes that worked for me I made the permenant panel. Enjoy!

[Dave Falkenstein]

...What are the main differences between the jointech table and the New Yankee table?...L

The NYW cabinet is designed for router tables that have relatively small tops. The NYW cabinet is oriented so the drawers and doors open to the front of the table, and the cavity for dust collection is in the center of the cabinet.

The Jointech cabinet is for tables with tops that are deeper than they are wide, such as those required when using Jointech or Incra fence systems. The Jointech cabinet is oriented so the openings face the side of the table and the cavity for dust collection is at one end of the cabinet.

[Tim Devlin]

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Dave: you have mail; I would be interested in your method of making the top. I have been swaying back and forth on the laminate vs waxed MDF since I can't find any cheap laminate in this size...I may revert if the opportunity presents itself.

Steven: I have a feeling you are an imposter...I base this on the fact that you have a big garage and the can see the floor :cool: . And what's that, a vehicle in your garage? In all reality, very nice table...and thanks for the link.

Luke: Dave hit you up with the knowledge...The table is wider than it is deeper to accomodate the jig.

Glenn: Awesome idea on recessing the back panel to the router cabinet...it would also protect the DC fitting in my garage...which is storage for way too much of the LOML crap. And she wants to know why I want to put up a shed!!!!

Thanks all.

Tim

[glenn bradley]

Quote from Tim:...it would also protect the DC fitting in my garage"

Duh! You're absolutly right. I should've mentioned that. My fitting is right where it would get whacked when storing my fence if not for the recess.

[Paul Wingert]

Tim,
I built the Jointech cabinet with some modifications, mostly the size. I have mine pictured at the below link.

http://www.datasystemsltd.com/router/

Steve, I like the idea of the way you did the dust collector hoses.. Is the fence hose connected to the "main" inlet, or does it just get the suction out from the cabinent compartment?

How well does the DC work?

[Hoa Dinh]

Tim,

Consider downdraft dust collection at the fence.

It's clean, tidy, and efficient.

See my setup (http://new.photos.yahoo.com/hoa_dinh@sbcglobal.net/album/576460762322157837) here.

My RT happens to be the right extension of the TS, and the fence happens to be Incra Ultralite, but the idea can be applied to other setups.

[Tim Devlin]

Hey Hoa, how're you doing?

I got the 25" Incra LS package with the wonder fence that has the DC port in it. I am going to take Glenn's suggestion and recess that back panel to decrease the volume for downdraft DC as well.
I will be using my shopvac for the time being until the LOML realizes my habit :rolleyes: .


P.S.: Hoa, the CS is working like a charm with the EZ system. Thanks for the great deal on the CS you sold to Dino that wound up on my workbench. I've used it many a time, but unfortunately just for repairs (all my garage cabinets got the refurb...this will be my first project using it's accuracy for something beneficial.

Thanks,
Tim

[Tim Devlin]

My fitting is right where it would get whacked when storing my fence if not for the recess.

Glenn, how are you storing that fence, that is what I was looking to do with an extra drawer...if you have another method, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Tim

[Bert Johansen]

Tim, here is one solution. Casters all around, plenty of drawer space, and a solid top that is hinged for quick changes. See photos in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=51014

[Steven J Corpstein]

Paul,
I have it going into a separate hole above the main tube. Seems to get plenty of air movement mostly due to the venturi affect.

[Tri Hoang]

Tim,
I built the Jointech cabinet with some modifications, mostly the size. I have mine pictured at the below link.

http://www.datasystemsltd.com/router/

Steven,

What material do you use to build your router top with? it looks really nice.

[Steven J Corpstein]

I actually ordered my Jointech setup with their phenolic top. I wouldn't suggest doing that to anyone else and in fact I am planning on replacing it with my own.

That was the second one from them and it has too much dip in the middle. Both tops came that way and Jointech told me they couldn't get it any closer. There's about 1/32" dip across the center. In their defense they did refund the price and let me keep the defective top.

[Keith Weber]

Tim,

I designed my own table around the Incra. Something to consider is that, because of the orientation of the Incra fence, you'll be doing most of your standing on the left side of the cabinet that you posted. By putting the router access door on that side, you won't have to move around to adjust your router. One of these days I'm going to finish those square drawers and the walnut edge of the top. It's only been like that for 5 years now!!!!

Keith

[Chris Delorie]

I think my brother made a table like that with the incra fence. Here is the link to his site....

http://www.delorie.com/wood/projects/router/

[glenn bradley]

Glenn, how are you storing that fence, that is what I was looking to do with an extra drawer...if you have another method, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Tim

Sorry for the confusion. The fence I was referring to was my Bies. My RT cabinet is attached like an extension wing to my TS. The gap between the two is where the DC exit is for the RT and the Bies storage for the TS. I hang the RT fence on an S hook slipped through an unused rear TS fence rail hole at the rear of the saw (left side of the RT). Pic here but no shot of the RT fence hanging:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54205&d=1167872143

[Tim Devlin]

Chris: Thanks, I will neither confirm nor deny ever seeing your brothers link in my research:rolleyes: . Would he have changed anything in hindsight?

Here is an updated with recessed rear and modified DC...I hope the fence DC going through the downdraft will function okay with just the shopvac. DC is a bit down the list at the moment.

[glenn bradley]

Tim,

Go ahead and make your main dust port at least 4" and use an adapter for your shop vac. You'll be a lot happier than if you try to enlarge the hole after SWMBO recognizes your habit ;-)

[jim gossage]

I actually ordered my Jointech setup with their phenolic top. I wouldn't suggest doing that to anyone else and in fact I am planning on replacing it with my own.

That was the second one from them and it has too much dip in the middle. Both tops came that way and Jointech told me they couldn't get it any closer. There's about 1/32" dip across the center. In their defense they did refund the price and let me keep the defective top.

i had the same problem with the Jessem phenolic table, except that mine was crowned in the middle 0.025" lengthwise . after much wrangling, they sent me a new top, which was crowned the other direction. i'm going to build my own and tranfer the mast-R-lift hardware.

[Justin Henry]

Glen - where did that switch come from? I'd love to get a couple for RT and TS.
Thanks

[Ted Miller]

Sorry for the confusion. The fence I was referring to was my Bies. My RT cabinet is attached like an extension wing to my TS. The gap between the two is where the DC exit is for the RT and the Bies storage for the TS. I hang the RT fence on an S hook slipped through an unused rear TS fence rail hole at the rear of the saw (left side of the RT). Pic here but no shot of the RT fence hanging:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=54205&d=1167872143

Glen, Did you place your RT next to your TS due to limited space or just preference...

[Jason Beam]

I have the same Incra - i used to have an Ultra17, but by some fortunate mistake I managed to upgrade it to the LS25 :)

Here's some pics:
http://www.sacramentoareawoodworkers.com/album/thumbnails.php?album=8

I have since changed the top to a 28x48 chunk, recentered to accomodate the longer travel of the LS25 :)

I decided to "go big or go home" on this table. It was overkill but worth every bit. There isn't a single tool I trust more :)

[glenn bradley]

Glen - where did that switch come from? I'd love to get a couple for RT and TS.
Thanks

You'll find the same switch on Steel City tools. PM me and I'll try to find the Orion part number for you. Sears is clueless although they sell Orion's zipcode saws which use the same switch. I don't know if SCTW's site is mature enough yet to have parts lists and exploded views available. They're still young but coming on strong. Give 'em time.

[glenn bradley]

Glen, Did you place your RT next to your TS due to limited space or just preference...

A little of both. I'm very selfish with what I call my 'work area'; the open space we all need to maneuver and work while we're doing whatever we're doing. I didn't want to give any up to a free standing RT. My overhead TS DC mast and my power and ducting all 'drain' to the right of my saw so that is a dead area in my layout.

I also enjoy the expanded table area provided to both tools by combining them. Power and DC ducting gets consolidated, etc. I prefer the left mount as my feed direction remains the same for TS and RT. The area that is clear to operate the saw is the same area that needs to be clear to operate the RT.

I am uncomfortable with the RT on the right and feeding the material between the RT fence and the saw blade's position; reaching over. I like to face the fence when I route. Others find this type of right mount better for them, I didn't like it.

Its a personal choice and you may factor in TS motor cover location. Many left tilt saws have the cover on the left so an attached RT has to extend so far out it may as well be free standing. My left tilt happens to have the motor cover on the right due to the configuration of the trunnions, etc.

[John Hain]

The only correction I see would be to center your router. There will be many times when you'll run a piece in reverse to avoid chip-out, and that would be more difficult to do with the router centered to the short-side.

[Tim Devlin]

Tim,

I designed my own table around the Incra. Something to consider is that, because of the orientation of the Incra fence, you'll be doing most of your standing on the left side of the cabinet that you posted. By putting the router access door on that side, you won't have to move around to adjust your router. One of these days I'm going to finish those square drawers and the walnut edge of the top. It's only been like that for 5 years now!!!!

Keith

Keith, how wide is your table. I like the idea of having the drawers in front of you like that.

Tim

[Keith Weber]

Tim,

The top is 40" x 32", 3" overhang on all sides.

Keith

[glenn bradley]

I came across the Orion part number for the switches that I use if this will help anyone: OR91579. Sears can't seem to corss reference it although they sell saws with this switch on them. Steel City may be able to help or Orion at -

Colleen Englert
Orion International
139 Delta Drive
Pittsburgh PA 15238
ph 412-967-0300 x109
fax 412-967-0400
colleen@oriontools.net (http://us.f822.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=colleen@oriontools.net)
colleen@steelcitytoolworks.net (http://us.f822.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=colleen@steelcitytoolworks.net)

[Justin Henry]

I came across the Orion part number for the switches that I use if this will help anyone: OR91579. Sears can't seem to corss reference it although they sell saws with this switch on them. Steel City may be able to help or Orion at -

Colleen Englert
Orion International
139 Delta Drive
Pittsburgh PA 15238
ph 412-967-0300 x109
fax 412-967-0400
colleen@oriontools.net (http://us.f822.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=colleen@oriontools.net)
colleen@steelcitytoolworks.net (http://us.f822.mail.yahoo.com/ym/Compose?To=colleen@steelcitytoolworks.net)


Thanks --- big thanks:D