Attention Lathe Experts: Jet 14-42 or the 16-42?

[Jeff Wright]

Jet offers the JWL 14-42 lathe for $899 and the JWL 16-42 for $1,699. The 16-42 features the electronic variable speed versus the Reeves Drive Pulley system on the 14-42. While the 14-42 allows turning a large 20" bowl on the end of the lathe, it appears to me that the motor location on the 16-42 would prevent turning on the outside end of the bed. $800 is a good bit difference in price, but would it be wise for me to go the extra for the 16-42? At that rate, the PowerMatic begins to look appealing. I am new to turning.

[Joyce Baldauf]

Jeff,

The EVS on the 1642 is a sweet option to have. If you are turning a large, out-of-round piece, you can start reeeealy slowly. Slower speeds are also great for sanding. The 1642 also enables you to reverse the spin of the lathe. The head stock on the 1642 slides to the left end of the bed where, with the use of a floor mounted tool rest, you can turn larger bowls. However, if you are primarily interested in bowl turning, there are certainly other lathes worth exploring that are specifically for bowls.

[Scott Gibbons]

I faced the same issue, I am going for the powermatic 3520b. If you watch amazon.com you can catch 10% off and free shipping

[Dominic Greco]

I highly recommend the Jet JWL-1642EVS. I've had mine for 5 years now and just love using it. I wrote a review (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/articles/6/) of that lathe for SMC. I suggest reading up on it and some of your questions may be answered. BTW, the VSD hasn't given me a lick of problems and I just love using it. It is definitely worth the extra dough to have that option.

As far as the 20" option on the 1442, I'd hesitate to really turn a platter or bowl that size with one of these lathes. That is, unless you beefed up the weight with a ballast box and a set of trestle legs (like I did for my 1642. You can check out that article (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/articles/7/) as well on SMC). Even so, I find that even with the ability to turn bowls 16", I seldom do. People seem to want the ones that are 7" to 10" in diameter.

[Terry Quiram]

Go big! You will never regret it.

[Tim Boger]

I have the 14-42 and really enjoy it, I do miss the variable speed my Jet Mini had before I up graded. Believe it or not, the LOML always encourages me to buy what I really want as life is to short not to. My advice, if you can afford it get the 16-42. It always feels good to decide on what you really want.

Tim

[Gordon Seto]

Jeff,

Even you seldom turn big bowls, you will get more enjoyment out of turning on the 16-42. It is one of the best value in the better class lathe.

Gordon

[Jeff Wright]

As fate would have it, I just found out a neighbor is selling his Jet 14-42, wolverine jigs, 7 professional gouges, grinder, super nova chuck and accessories - all items said to be in like-new condition. He is ASKING $1000! But I am STILL leaning towards the upper-end machine. Now if I could buy his set for, say . . . . $600 . . . .

[RL Johnson]

Grizzly has a 1642 Jet clone for $1388.25 and that inlcudes shipping. Don't know anything about the lathe as they just introduced it this year but it looks like a green painted Jet.

[Dario Octaviano]

The Jet 1642 have a sliding headstock. You turn bigger stuff at the end of the lathe.

If you can afford it...there is no contest between these 2.

[Neal Addy]

Jeff, I drive a 1442 and it is a VERY nice lathe. I love the sturdy construction and quality build. Its got enough power for what I turn and is as solid as a rock. IMO it and the Nova 1624-44 are the best $1K lathes on the market.

That said, I would have gone for a Jet 1642 in a heartbeat if I could have afforded it at the time. Electronic readout, EVS, and reverse are things I really wish I had. I get by without them but they sure would be nice.

If you are not going to start at the bottom of the money scale (i.e. mini lathe) then go as big as you can afford. Mini owners get to learn turning and make sure they like it before committing big dollars. If you really think you are going to like turning and stick with it then the 1642 is a great starting point (PM would be better!).

[Jeff Wright]

Dominic . . . I read your review and the tutorial on building the riser treads and ballast box. Great job!

Two questions (for all):
1] Is there any issues with positioning a lathe up against a wall of the shop, or must a lathe be placed away from the wall?
2] Would installing heavy duty casters (like the ones at zambus.com) be an unwise idea. The zambus casters rest on solid feet when in the immobile position. Or, is there some other means of giving mobility to a heavy lathe?

Thank you all for your contributions. They are a great help!

[Neal Addy]

Nothing says a lathe can't be positioned near a wall. Some folks like to work from both sides of the lathe so room to move (and run) is best. I prefer placement in the center of my shop to give a launched piece plenty of time and space to bleed off speed before it hits a wall, but that's just me. As long as you have access to sweep up the shavings you should be fine.

The only problem I can see with mobility is having to level the lathe each time it is moved. If it isn't centered right on all four legs you can get an annoying vibration. Maybe your shop floor is leveler than mine and it won't be a problem.

Of course, you could always leave the casters down and follow it around on roller skates. :D

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jeff, I have the Jet 1642 and love it. I did have the lathe positioned fairly close to the wall but ended up moving it out a couple of feet to make room for the cage that is mounted to the headstock. I use the cage to support a portable light and the lathe had to move out a little so the cage could lock in the fully open position.

[Jeff Wright]

Jeff, I have the Jet 1642 and love it. I did have the lathe positioned fairly close to the wall but ended up moving it out a couple of feet to make room for the cage that is mounted to the headstock. I use the cage to support a portable light and the lathe had to move out a little so the cage could lock in the fully open position.

Steve, which 16-42 do you have, the 1.5HP or 2HP model. Is the 2HP worth getting? I already have 220 service in the shop, so that's not a problem. Also, is it necessary to run the lathe with the cage installed?

[Jack Norfleet]

Steve, which 16-42 do you have, the 1.5HP or 2HP model. Is the 2HP worth getting? I already have 220 service in the shop, so that's not a problem. Also, is it necessary to run the lathe with the cage installed?

Jeff,

I posted the question about the 220V vs 110V Jet 1642 here. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=48827. I bought the 220V model and couldn't be happier. As for the cage, it is not required. Many people remove it.

Jack

[Steve Schlumpf]

Jeff, I have the 2 hp 220v version and love it. Is it worth the extra cash? To me - Yes.

I turn a little of everything as I am still learning and find everything facinating to turn. I do love to turn bowls and hope to get a coring system at some time in the future. I know that I won't have a problem with a 2 hp lathe coring a large bowl blank - not real sure if a 1.5 120volt version would always be able to handle it. Figured to pick up more power than I need rather than saving a some money only to regret it later.

As far as the cage - it's not required. I actually didn't have it mounted on the lathe at all until I saw a picture from one of our members (Frank Kobilsek if memory serves) showing his lathe with a clip-on light attached to the cage. Duh! What a great idea! That's when I mounted the cage and had to move the lathe away from the wall so the cage could lock into the fully open position.

If you have any more questions... let us know!

[Frank Kobilsek]

Thanks for thinking of me Steve.

The cage also works as a paper holder. I clip my design to the cage as a visual reference.

Jeff, I have the 1642 but my advice is buy as big a lathe as you can afford from a quality supplier. If you can afford the Powermatic go for it. If the 1642 is pushing it get the 1442. There is a 1442 for sale in the classifieds here on the Creek. Mr Hartley from Texas with some extras for only $650 check it out. I decided on the 1642 in 2005 because it was as big as I could afford at the time, 2008 will have a Powermatic in the garage!

Frank

[Jeff Wright]

. . . .2008 will have a Powermatic in the garage!
Frank

Frank, what is driving you to want a PM? Do you do a lot of large bowls? Doesn't it have a shorter capacity versus the 16-42 regarding the length of a turned piece . . . 34 inches versus 42? What is pushing you to the PM?

[Gordon Seto]

Same logic as Toyota & Lexus, both are made by the same company. WMH makes same type of machines under different lines. If you look at the drawing on both manuals, you will be see PM has more massive headstock.

Gordon

[Jason Solodow]

My $0.02 is that if you think you're going to jump into the vortex, go for the 1642. If you're just wanting to test the waters, pick up a 1236. I say the 1642 because of the EVS, if you want to upgrade to that later on, it's about a $7-800 upgrade. The EVS will be great for the purpose of being able to reverse, and when you're ready for the more advanced techniques you'll need to be able to really slow that puppy down. For example, thread cutting is done at about 200 rpms, you will not be able to slow the 1442 or any lathe with a Reeves drive down that slow. Anyway, my 2 cents..

[Dominic Greco]

Dominic . . . I read your review and the tutorial on building the riser treads and ballast box. Great job!

Thanks Jeff, I appreciate it.:D



1] Is there any issues with positioning a lathe up against a wall of the shop, or must a lathe be placed away from the wall?

No problem doing this at all! I have my lathe almost against the wall. I had to leave some room so that I could have a dust pickup back there. Also, you need to be able to get back there to clean (every once in a blue moon) or snag that errant piece of hardware or wood that inconveniently rolls back there from time to time.



2] Would installing heavy duty casters (like the ones at zambus.com) be an unwise idea. The zambus casters rest on solid feet when in the immobile position. Or, is there some other means of giving mobility to a heavy lathe?

I know others have their lathes on casters and I salute their ingenuity. And I understand that due to space restrictions they need to be able to move the lathe around. But for me, I prefer to keep my lathe as stable as possible. IMHO having it permanently mounted on wheels is a way of reducing it's ability to resist vibration when turning a large, out of round blank. If I was going to make my lathe mobile, I would make it so that the wheels would be lowered when needed, and when "parked" the lathe sits on some heavy duty equipment levelers. I believe that I've seen a design for this somewhere using welded channels, and (4) sections of 1" dia x 10" long all-thread as the "jack shafts". The wheels are bolted to the channel. When you want to move the lathe, unscrew the jack shaft and the lathe is lowered onto it's wheels.

[Fred Floyd]

I have the Jet 1642-2hp model. The extra power is worth the $100. If you ever plan to use a coring setup like the McNaughton, the extra power is essential.

I've turned quite a few large bowls (up to 15 inch diameter). The extra power helped. Also, this lathe has a high range 100 to 3200rpm and a low range that tops out at about 1200rpm. The low range is really nice for big out of round blanks as you can turn very slow and still have enough torque to get the tool to cut.

I keep mine next to the wall but occasionally move it out if I'm doing hollow turning.

All in all, after two years, I'm still happy with this unit. It's a big jump to a significantly better lathe. I think the next jump from the 1642-2hp is to the Powermatic 3520B. Still, here you get the same 2hp but with a 20-inch swing. The PM3520 has an optional extension that can be lower than the regular bed. By moving the headstock down to the tail end and using the lower bed extension, you can easily turn 24" stock.

My experience is that 24" stock is hard to come by, so the larger swing may only be academic.

Hope this helps..

Fred

[Jim Bell]

IMO if $$$ is not an issue the PM will do most anything. Keep in mind in most cases you lose 2" to the banjo, so a 16" lathe will at best turn a 14" piece and so on.