White Oak (Pros, Cons)

[Scott Halverson]

Hi Guys,

I might have an opportunity to pick up some white oak. Some flat sawn and some quarter sawn. For most of my projects I use red oak.

Can anyone let me know what I will find different working with white oak vs. red oak?

Any pros or cons on white oak will also be helpful.

Thanks,

Scott

[Gary Keedwell]

I use QSWO in 90% of my projects because I like Arts & Crafts furniture. It is probably the most stable wood I have ever machined. Also, It is so beautiful after properly soaking it in BLO, then finishing in finish of choice.

Gary K.

[Roy McQuay]

I use a lot of white oak, just a little red oak. The only difference to me is the use. White oak holds up outdoors and red oak doesn't. I have had red oak splinter from my router but haven't had that with the white oak. I have made quite a few Adirondak chairs, tables, settes and gliders out of white oak. Quartersawn is the best as it has the rays and it is very stable. It is also much more expensive.

[Ted Miller]

Scott, I was in luck in my area an old church was being torn down and all the pews were white oak, so I worked my butt off and I would say I have 600 bf each board is only 7" wide but what a deal, free. I use it constantly and it really finishes nice...

[Mike K Wenzloff]

I personally find White Oak to be more stable than Red Oak. Works nearly the same. The ray flecks are great on the QS White Oak.

Take care, Mike

[Randy Acton]

As it seems that just about everything is made of red oak these days, I have just simply gotten sick of it.

Being that I also like Arts & Crafts furniture, white oak and cherry are about all I use.

White Oak in general may be more stable than red oak, but how it is cut is of much greater importance. Quarter cut wood will be more stable than plain sawn wood in any species. Quarter cut and rift cut are what you most see in white oak.

White oak is near impervious to rot so it works great for outdoor projects.

The ray effect in white oak is also quite stunning and in general I think white is nicer looking than red.

I have left the wood natural (tung oil only), used anoline dyes and recently started ammonia fuming. I personally feel that ammonia fuming nets the most beautiful result. To give an even more striking effect, after fuming or staining and before applying poly, shellac, etc.. run a 300-400 grit lightly over the wood. The rays are harder than the rest of the wood and this will pull a little of the color out of the rays, making them pop.

[Scott Halverson]

All great comments and advice guys....keep them coming.

I just got off the phone from someone who has between 100 - 200 bd. ft. of quarter sawn white oak. He is moving and told me he would let it go for $3.00 a bd. ft. Not sure if I can afford the whole two hundred bd. ft. but am planning on buying 100 bd. ft. if it looks good. He tells me it is select and better, so we'll see. The only problem is it's about 100 mile drive. Hope it's as nice as he says.

Thanks again,

Scott

[Bill Spievak]

There are something like 14 different species that are termed "red oak" and, 16, I think, that are termed "white oak." In my experience red oak is usually light brown with a red or pink tinge. White oak is light to medium brown in color. If you are making barrels then white oak is the choice, but other that that I don't think it makes much difference. Most think they machine very similar, but my preference is white oak. I think white oak is easier to work without tearout and may be a bit tougher. Consequently, all things being equal I'll spend my money to buy white oak every time.

[Joe McMahon]

Scott, If you can't use it all, please keep me in mind as like the others above, I make a lot of mission pieces for my wife and use only QSWO. Any that you can't use I will gladly drive up and pick up.

Joe