Anti-gloat

[Noah Katz]

Here's what I sold and how much I got for it:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/tls/287828682.html

Makes me sick to think how many hundreds of $ and hours I spent on it.

So why did I sell it? Because it still didn't have a real riving knife (or even a splitter), the blade shroud dusn't work all that well and it still needs above table dust collection, needs an outfeed table, the router clamp is a pain to use, and has the problems mentioned in the ad.

After fussing with it to sell, the fence slides better than it ever has (I discovered bits of metal embedded in the UHMW sliders), but I doubt it will cut consistently square.

It had never occurred to me til recently to bail on it after all of that, but I finally realized it made more sense to get a new saw, which at this point in my life and career I can afford.

New PM2000 will be delivered this week, to which I'll add a Shark Guard, outfeed table, and Bench Dog cast iron router table w/Freud FT1700.

[Paul Douglass]

Some guys have a wierd ways to sneek in gloats!!!!!!!!!!!!:D

[Noah Katz]

I see your point, but that wasn't my intention.

Actually it makes me a bit uncomfortable to proclaim my purchase of something that others want but can't afford, as I was in that position for most of my life.

[Greg Peterson]

I recently bought a framing nailer from the Bear. Even though it was only $100 brand new, I'd have to say that the performance of this piece of equipment pretty much eliminates this company from any future equipment purchase.

I'll stick with my doctored CM TS till have I enough saved up to by a real TS. Considering it was free, I'll live with the various compromises that I otherwise wouldn't tolerate from a new TS.

The PM2000 is my current first choice.

[Bruce Page]

I feel your pain. I went through a similar odyssey before buying my Unisaw.
Sometimes you gotta know when to punt…

[Maurice Ungaro]

Noah,
I think you're gonna really like the Bench Dog router table extension wing. It is a hoss, and comes with a wonderful fence. I added an above table on/off switch, which really makes it a pleasure to use.

[George Lohnes]

:D I like the saw, the router table (BD) and the shark guard.

I am going the cheaper route along the same path: used PM66, shark guard, and moving BenchDog cast iron off my Ridgid to the PM66.

Now for my question, have you come up with any good ideas on how you are going to integrate the BenchDog into the PM2000? I have a few ideas, none of which I like a lot! [btw.. I am assuming PM2000 has motor on left also, which means you can't put BenchDog top on left side, which was great with the Ridgid].

Any ideas, thoughts or pics greatly appreciated.

George

P.S. and have fun with the new toy(s)!:D

[Noah Katz]

Thanks, I feel better hearing I'm not the only one to try too hard to silkify the sow's ear.

> have you come up with any good ideas on how you are going to integrate the BenchDog into the PM2000? I have a few ideas, none of which I like a lot!

What don't you like and why? I was just going to replace the right wing with the BD table; am I missing something?

The PM table is 3+" deeper than the 27" BD. I'm going to align the front of the BD with the front of the PM table to give a nice flat support surface for the front fence rail, and make spacers to attach the less critical back rail.

[Jim DeLaney]

I went the route of trying to 'gentrify' a Sears table saw many years ago. It was one of the mid-eighties models that were much 'damned' by most who owned them - including me. I tried everything with that saw. Built a new cabinet under it, added an aftermarket fence, added PALS, changed out the trunnion bolts for a better grade, used Loctite, added an aftermarket guard (couldn't find ausable splitter to fit it), and i don't remember what all else.

I spent more time messing with that saw than I did actually using it, and never did get it to be reliable. Traded up (?) to a Powermatic 63, with slightly better results, but still wasn't satisfied.

Finally, about six years ago, I sold the PM-63 and got a cabinet saw. Never looke back since then. I've been totally satisfied with my Shop Fox cabinet saw. Put a Delta Uniguard and a Biesemeyer splitter on it. Even moved it cross country a couple years ago and didn't even thave to readjust it! It's held its calibration perfectly.

You're really gonna like that PM2000. It should be the last saw you'll ever need. Congrats!

[Art Walker]

Noah,

I saw the ad last week and again yesterday when the price dropped.
That was an intensely customized tool. The paint was a close match to a tool tray
I built as part of a shop/lab class almost 30 years ago,
so the ad provoked some completely unrelated nostalgia.
I have some questions, asked in appreciation of the work you put into it.
1) didn't your choice of orientation for the replacement motor result in
over-eager tilt, and a lot of effort to crank the tilt back to square cut?
2) did you ever think about fully enclosing an expanded cabinet?
3) many people think of the left tilt as an advantage wrt kickback hazard.
Yet you set up your extensions and rip fence on the L, which defeats that.
Was this to eliminate the burden of compensating for blades with different kerf which comes with left tilt arbors?

Anyway, hopefully the new owner will do it justice and you will enjoy your awesome new saw.

Art

[Noah Katz]

> have some questions, asked in appreciation of the work you put into it.

Thanks Art, I confess that's what I was really wanting. The guy who bought it was happy with the deal, but obviously didn't appreciate what I had put into it, or at least he didn't say anything. He has a car stereo shop and his saw broke yesterday in the middle of making speaker boxes, and he just wanted to finish his job.

1) didn't your choice of orientation for the replacement motor result in
over-eager tilt, and a lot of effort to crank the tilt back to square cut?images/buttons/edit.gif (http://www.sawmillcreek.org/editpost.php?do=editpost&p=541172)

Good catch, but it's not too bad, the drive mechanism is very beefy.

The reason I did it that way was because an in-law has a pool supply blase and sold me a 2 HP pump motor cheap; they're not reversible and that's the way it had to be

2) did you ever think about fully enclosing an expanded cabinet?

Nope.

3) many people think of the left tilt as an advantage wrt kickback hazard.

When I bought the saw there was a wing on each side; I wanted more rip capacity and I chose to put it on the left so as not to obstruct the tilt handwheel.

That was about 25 yr ago, I was basically clueless about saws.

[Joe Trotter]

Nice saw!

If I had been close I would own it now. I will be doing some upgrades to a c-man contractor saw I bought yesterday. It is my first so I am fine with putting some cash into it.

Can you tell me more about the fence?

Thanks, Joe

[Chris Jenkins]

Noah,

Correct me if I am wrong, but if I am thinking of the Benchdog router table that I think you're talking about that is made to hang off the left side of a TS. Won't this be a problem on a left tilt saw being the motor is coming out the left side of the saw?

[Jeff Miller]

Hi I have the same identical saw,I gave a guy $100.00 for it in very rusty condition but no dents and nothing bent. I restored it and built a mobile stand for it,added another table saw top for more width and mounted my router where the table slot is. Then mounted my jointer on the left,the jointer is of the same vintage.


The fence is really heavy if you use the fence properly and keep the rails lubed it works nice, it has a fine adjustment knob and I put a new measuring tape on the rail and thats what I measure with, very accurate.

I don't think the saw had seen very much use before I got it.The only thing I would change is a new fence someday.


By the way I'v heard about this nickel test I didn't have one but I had a penny and it passed during startup,running,and shut down but maybe a penny is easier than a nickel.:cool:

http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f32/woodfarmer/shop/shop025.jpg


http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f32/woodfarmer/shop/shop024.jpg