Calling all 8 inch jointer owners

[Duan Packard]

Specifically the Shop Fox w1741 and the Grizzly G0490 and any other
jointers of similar manufacture.
What have you done to improve the air flow ie dust, chip collection on these jointers.
Mine is terrible even on narrow boards with minimum cut.
Seems to me that this thing is buttoned up so tight that there is no air flow,
which has a serious impact on chip collection as our shop dust
collectors depend on air movement and if the machine is so tight that
it hinders air movement, no or poor chip collection.
So anyone done something that has helped?
My dust collector is the HF "2hp" ducted directly to the jointer
all other ports are closed.

Thanks

Duan

[glenn bradley]

No help here but I'll watch with interest. This is a jointer that is on my short list. I have read that parallelogram beds follow the contour of the knife head as they are raised and lowered keeping the gap tight. This is spoken of as a good thing and is the only thing I can find that sets this bed supporting method apart from dovetail ways as far as a reason to prefer them.

[Keith Outten]

Duan,

I have a ten year old Grizzly 8" joiner. It's the only machine in my shop that isn't hooked up to my DC system. Frankly I don't get any dust to speak of, just chips that I sweep up after using the machine.

.

[Russ Massery]

I have a Grizzly G0490. I did to thing one closed off the upper portion of the dust shoot. It's open to the cabinet. And second I have a Clearvue cyclone so I when to 6" ducting to machine. Don't know if that's a option for you with the dust collector you have.

[Allen Bookout]

I have the GO490 and I closed my chute like Russ did. I glued in a piece of epoxy coated plywood. It works really well for me using a two horsepower dust collector. This is the base upside down. The plywood is actually in the top of the chute when turned rightside up.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e278/apache3/dscf0020dustchute.jpg

[Allen Bookout]

I have read that parallelogram beds follow the contour of the knife head as they are raised and lowered keeping the gap tight. This is spoken of as a good thing and is the only thing I can find that sets this bed supporting method apart from dovetail ways as far as a reason to prefer them.
Glen,

This was only a minor reason for me going with a parrallelogram bed. The main reason for me was the adjustability of the beds. I have been through adjusting a dovetail way jointer using shims and there are several reasons that this is not nearly as good as the parrallelogram bed adjustment.

Allen

[Russ Massery]

I got the idea from Allan. We received them within days of each other. I also agree with Allan's thoughts on the table design.The parallelogram tables are much easier to adjust.

[glenn bradley]

[quote]:The parallelogram tables are much easier to adjust.[quote]:

Allen and Russ (stealth thread hijack, shhhh),

When you say easier to adjust, you are saying this in relation to initial and maintenance alignment, yes? Also, the lever handles v.s. wheels for height seems awkward in the VERY limited fooling around I have done at the tool store. I assume the levers work OK for you guys(?).

[Allen Bookout]

[quote]

When you say easier to adjust, you are saying this in relation to initial and maintenance alignment, yes?
YES! Shim adjustment on a dovetail way machine can be a real pain in the behind. I could go into a long dissertation on the subject but I will save you the pain.


I assume the levers work OK for you guys(?).

They work OK for me. Real smooth on the GO490. Of course the wheel setup worked fine for me also.

[glenn bradley]

Allen,

Many thanks (highjack over).

[Kevin Blunt]

I have the GO490 and I closed my chute like Russ did. I glued in a piece of epoxy coated plywood. It works really well for me using a two horsepower dust collector. This is the base upside down. The plywood is actually in the top of the chute when turned rightside up.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e278/apache3/dscf0020dustchute.jpg

Allen,

could you please describe in a bit further detail how you did this. I am planning on doing the same thing and yours looks excellent and well sealed.

Thanks,

Kevin

[Allen Bookout]

Allen,

could you please describe in a bit further detail how you did this. I am planning on doing the same thing and yours looks excellent and well sealed.

Thanks,

Kevin
Thanks for the kind words Kevin! Actually it was pretty simple. I knew that it would be difficult to close the chute from the top so I cut a piece of plwood that had been coated with West System epoxy to just slide into the chute firmly and basically hold itself. Then I pulled it out and coated the back edge and sides edges with epoxy and slid it back in. Then I just ran a small bead of glue (with a little thickner added) around the edges and the edge on the front of the piece. I guess that you could use any glue that would glue wood to metal.

I cannot emagine any reason to ever have to take it out but if I have to I figure that I could always heat it to brake down the epoxy and knock it out clean.

[Russ Massery]

Kevin, I used a sheet of galvanized sheet metal, cut it to size adding a 3/4" to both sides. Bend the 3/4" lips for each side and pop riveted it in though the sides. Then chauked the sides.

Russ

[Duan Packard]

Thanks for your replys.

Duan

[Jake Helmboldt]

All I have is a crappy shop vac on mine and as long as the filter isn't too loaded up it gets most of the chips. With real DC I can't imagine having the issue you are.

BUT, I was thinking about doing what the others have by closing the chute, but I wasn't sure if it was a good idea. I guess it is.

JH