Tie bolts to stop end checking (?)

[Rob Will]

In another thread we have been discussing how to dry W I D E boards.
As you know, the bigger the board, the more problem we have with end checking.

So just as an experiment, I came up with this. Who knows if it will work but it looks promising.

I stacked the lumber with the widest most at-risk lumber toward the bottom of the pile. All boards of a similar width were stacked together. A little extra room was left adjacent to the wide boards.

Then I slipped a 3/8" all-thread between pairs of boards and out toward each end. An oak block applies horizontal pressure equally to both boards. An automotive valve spring maintains pressure as the wood shrinks throughout the drying process.
(In this case I used the valve springs and retainers from a 350 Chevy).
Hopefully, this will help control end checking until the wood reaches equilibrium all the way through. Your thoughts?

Rob

[Dan Drager]

Isn't that what anchorseal is for?

http://www.woodnshop.com/ANCHORSEAL.htm?gclid=CIDK2avc14oCFQtpUAodGFhMxQ

[Rob Will]

Dan, you are correct.
Actually, I do have Anchorseal on all of my logs.
Unfortunately, it seems that some of the very widest boards are still at risk. I probably have no business trying to dry a 27" board but here goes nothing.

Rob

[Bill Simmeth]

(In this case I used the valve springs and retainers from a 350 Chevy).
Rob, sorry but I really don't think this will work. You shoulda used springs from a 454 :D

Seriously, will be interesting to see if this works.

[Rob Will]

Rob, sorry but I really don't think this will work. You shoulda used springs from a 454 :D

Seriously, will be interesting to see if this works.

Bill, If you look closely, they are actually high-performance double valve springs and aluminum retainers. Trust me, this is way cheaper than the first time I put these parts into "service".:rolleyes: Got a 540 (BB Chev) Mercruiser I/O in the shop right now but I'd better not use those springs.

Rob

[Pete Brown]

Very inventive

My concern with this approach is that in order to maintain enough cross-grain force to keep the end checks from happening, you would end up introducing a cup to the board or making an existing cup worse. I don't know how strong the valve springs are, but I don't think there's a happy medium here.

I think to make this idea work, you would also need significant flattening clamp pressure located in the same general spot as your horizontal pressure.

Bring a straight edge out every couple days/weeks and check to see if you're introducing a cup.

Pete

[josh bjork]

did you seal the last 6" of the board or just the very end?

[Rob Will]

Pete,
I have the wide boards on the very bottom of a huge lumber pile. All of the stickers are matched for thickness and the outside set is right next to the all-threads. Having said that, you have a good point and I'm going to keep an eye on it.

Josh,
I sealed the ends of the logs before milling but some popped off in the process. I'm going to reseal the ends plus whatever other surfaces can be reached ASAP.

Thanks for the suggestions,
Rob