Compressed air hose vs pipe

[Jay Knoll]

Hi everyone

I've got a small pancake air compressor that works great for running a brad nailer and "dust blowe" I keep tripping over the hose as it snakes from the compressor to where ever I am working so I was thinking of running a course of pipe around the shop with some outlets. I was going to use black iron pipe until my last visit to Sams Club. They have air hose at a very low price. So now I'm thinking of using that instead of pipe, tying into some "T's" where I want to put an outlet. Any pros or cons to this approach?

Thanks

Jay

[John Christiansen]

Hi everyone

I've got a small pancake air compressor that works great for running a brad nailer and "dust blowe" I keep tripping over the hose as it snakes from the compressor to where ever I am working so I was thinking of running a course of pipe around the shop with some outlets. I was going to use black iron pipe until my last visit to Sams Club. They have air hose at a very low price. So now I'm thinking of using that instead of pipe, tying into some "T's" where I want to put an outlet. Any pros or cons to this approach?

Thanks

Jay


It's likely that the Sams club hose was 1/4" ID. This is too small for efficient air movement, even if it was 3/8" ID any long run will give you reduced airflow.

But the major problem will be that any dip in the hose between hangers will collect moisture. no matter how fastidious you are about keeping the tank blown out, you will still get condensation out in the line. DAMHIKT

I would suggest that you go with plan "A" and hard pipe the air around your shop, but use 1/2 or 3/4 copper pipe instead of the black. Far less expensive, and much easier. There are different grades of copper tube, ask you dealer what the pressure rateing is on his/her stuff you decide to use copper. Even if you've never done it before, with just a little practice you should be able to sweat the copper together just fine. It really takes no special skill. Just scrub it, flux it, and solder it.

Attempt to make the main trunk line all fall back toward the compressor. and the ideal situation would be to build it up as a closed loop system. In other words "T" out of the compressor and make a complete circuit around the shop, going out one end of the "T" and returning to the other end of the "T". Again in such a way that all condensation can fall back to the compressor. Any place that you decide to cut in an air jack, the jack itself should point up. never bring an air jack or drop out of the main trunk, pointing down. If you mount the trunk high and need to make drops. "T" up and use a couple elbows to get the drop headed down.

There would be other things to concern yourself with if you were going to be spraying, but the above is pretty much sufficient for nailers or blowouts.

[Joe Suelter]

Would 3/4" copper be too big? I have a friend that gave me a BUNCH of new copper pipe, but it's 3/4", so I was going to use it for water to the garage, but I'm thinking of doing this same thing. This is "red" pipe? I don't know much about copper, but I think there are a few grades of it like you said. I probably have at least 100 feet of this, thinkI could use it for air? How do I know the pressure rating?

[John Christiansen]

Would 3/4" copper be too big? I have a friend that gave me a BUNCH of new copper pipe, but it's 3/4", so I was going to use it for water to the garage, but I'm thinking of doing this same thing. This is "red" pipe? I don't know much about copper, but I think there are a few grades of it like you said. I probably have at least 100 feet of this, thinkI could use it for air? How do I know the pressure rating?

The 3/4" size would not be a problem, but the red pipe would.

Red code is typically used for domestic water systems. It would not have sufficient burst strength for compressed air.

Man, aint it a shame when you have a surplus of something that just isn't quite right for the job at hand. Sorry.

[Robert Malone]

Jay,
If you use copper pipe use type L or K, not type M, it's much thinner.
You were talking about hoses from Sams.
Tubing will be the cheaper way to go.
The cost will be the fittings and couplings for each outlet.
IMHO
Bob

[Joe Suelter]

The 3/4" size would not be a problem, but the red pipe would.

Red code is typically used for domestic water systems. It would not have sufficient burst strength for compressed air.

Man, aint it a shame when you have a surplus of something that just isn't quite right for the job at hand. Sorry.

Doh! Man, that's a shame. Thanks for the advice John.

[Chris Padilla]

It's likely that the Sams club hose was 1/4" ID. This is too small for efficient air movement, even if it was 3/8" ID any long run will give you reduced airflow.

But the major problem will be that any dip in the hose between hangers will collect moisture. no matter how fastidious you are about keeping the tank blown out, you will still get condensation out in the line. DAMHIKT

I would suggest that you go with plan "A" and hard pipe the air around your shop, but use 1/2 or 3/4 copper pipe instead of the black. Far less expensive, and much easier. There are different grades of copper tube, ask you dealer what the pressure rateing is on his/her stuff you decide to use copper. Even if you've never done it before, with just a little practice you should be able to sweat the copper together just fine. It really takes no special skill. Just scrub it, flux it, and solder it.

Attempt to make the main trunk line all fall back toward the compressor. and the ideal situation would be to build it up as a closed loop system. In other words "T" out of the compressor and make a complete circuit around the shop, going out one end of the "T" and returning to the other end of the "T". Again in such a way that all condensation can fall back to the compressor. Any place that you decide to cut in an air jack, the jack itself should point up. never bring an air jack or drop out of the main trunk, pointing down. If you mount the trunk high and need to make drops. "T" up and use a couple elbows to get the drop headed down.

There would be other things to concern yourself with if you were going to be spraying, but the above is pretty much sufficient for nailers or blowouts.


Isn't most of the air hose that's available 3/8"? I have a nice reel from Craftsman of coiled up 3/8" 50' flex hose.

Also, most copper pipe for water is rated around 80-120 psi (I think, the K or L type has a thicker wall so could go higher perhasp). I think compressors (depends on the size of compressor) can go and deliver much higher. It that case, black pipe or aluminum pipe would be the way to go. If threaded, it can make future upgrades easier.

In the end, for this compressor type, I think copper is fine and 1/2" is probably a nice size but get the K or L type due to thicker wall. If you have thoughts of a bigger compressor in the future, however, you might consider the black pipe.

Check here: Brief Ditty on Compressors (http://www.ultimategarage.com/compress.html)

and here: More details on tools/accesories/pipe (http://www.ultimategarage.com/airtool1.html)


Chris

[Tom Peterson]

I just used the plain old 1/2 inch copper water pipe. Compressor tank ahead of this is regulated so that it(line sections) does not see more than 95 psi. If you do it with pipe, I echo the earlier post, make sure you leave a place for moisture to accumulate and then drain. I have the air plumbed in two spots in the basement and in the garage. It was really handy for blowing the water out of the garden hoses this year. No need to lay them out