Setting up Delta Tenoning Jig on Ridgid Table Saw

[Tim Malyszko]

My new Delta 34-183 Tenoning Jig arrived yesterday (by the way, thanks for the heads up on the $49.99 price), and I'm having a little bit of an issue with the setup on my Ridgid TS3650 table saw.

As the instructions indicated, I set up the jig for a left tilt saw. After following the alignment instructions, the jig's marker sits at the 1/2" indicator and the set screw that prevents you from aligning the jig too close to the blade won't touch the large lock handle when it's backed in all the way.

I went back and set it up for a right tilt saw and I was about 3/8" short of the blade.

The distance between the saw blade and the miter slot is 5".

It looks like I need to re-drill the Tenoning Jig's base to make up the 1/2". Before I do, I figured I'd at least post this issue on here in case I'm overlooking something.

Drilling new holes aren't an issue, but I'd rather not have to re-drill holes on a brand new tool.

I've also attached pictures to illustrate the issue.

Thanks in advance.

[Brad Knabel]

I had the same issue with my Dewalt DW746 saw. I ended up drilling new holes in my jig. It worked fine afterwards.

[glenn bradley]

I have a close cousin to your jig sold by Powermatic and others. The stop screw problem was resolved by running a long hex head set screw into position and then using the stock screw to lock it into position.

As far as the cursor and measuring scale on these jigs go; I wouldn't bother fixing the stock model. I actually just put a piece of tape over the scale and mark the positions for a given run and then change the tape for whatever I do next.

If you want accuracy on the adjustments that you can duplicate I've seen a few folks rig a dial indicator to the jig. The factory cursor is HUGE and the scale to cursor gap allows way too much variation depending on your viewing angle. Rather than drill holes to fix a design that will never be good enough, I would add your own.

[Ed Bamba]

Looks like we have the same problem. I have a left-tilt saw with a Delta jig made for right-tilt only saws. It's an older jig that doesn't have the holes drilled into the base for the left-tilt option. It's too bad we aren't closer to each other so we could just swap bases. I too will need to drill holes in the base, which in itself is no big deal; just don't want screw it up by misaligning the new holes.

Ed

[Tim Malyszko]

Looks like we have the same problem. I have a left-tilt saw with a Delta jig made for right-tilt only saws. It's an older jig that doesn't have the holes drilled into the base for the left-tilt option. It's too bad we aren't closer to each other so we could just swap bases. I too will need to drill holes in the base, which in itself is no big deal; just don't want screw it up by misaligning the new holes.

Ed

I'm looking for a good reason to get out to Vegas sometime soon - maybe this is the answer:) .

I'm usually out your way twice a year for fun, but am sort of burnt out on Vegas so I'm holding off for a while.


If you want accuracy on the adjustments that you can duplicate I've seen a few folks rig a dial indicator to the jig. The factory cursor is HUGE and the scale to cursor gap allows way too much variation depending on your viewing angle. Rather than drill holes to fix a design that will never be good enough, I would add your own.

I'm not really concerned about using the factory cursor as I am having the hole cutting capacity of the jig. I like the suggestion of a dial indicator and may look into adding one to the jig if I ever find the time.


The stop screw problem was resolved by running a long hex head set screw into position and then using the stock screw to lock it into position.

I'll give it a try.

Thanks for the replies.