Arbortech for Seat Making - suggestions?

[Bill Fleming]

I am considering an Arbortech Pro (4" blade version) to shape seats for stools and chairs. I am wondering if anyone has suggestions on a good angle grinder to buy for this purpose since I don't have one.

I am left handed so would like to fully consider all possible makes and models and ergonomics, etc.

Of course any comments about the Arbortech in general also appreciated.

Cheers - Bill

[Rick Lizek]

The arbortech is fine but very agressive. You might want to look at the Karbide Kutzall cutter as well. More like a rasp so it's more controllable. Woodcraft, etc.
As far as an angle grinder 4-1/2" with 5/8"-11 arbor is the most common. Higher amp rating would be the most powerful, but you should see what tool feels comfortable to you. You might want to consider a pair of Kevlar golves...flesh disappears in an instant with the arbortech.
Another way to reproduce chair seat effectively is a router and copy carving machine. Bill Schnute book High Relief Carving has simple plans to make one with simple materials.The arbor tech will fit on a 4-1/2" grinder. The 4" grinders usually have smaller arbors and are the least flexible for options availble such as sanding discs, etc.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

I'm left handed also I use the Porter Cable Paint stripper / grinder
Model 7403
59295

I use as a grinder when it's not stipping paint.

This thing is absolutely fabulous at removing old oil-based paint from shingles and clapboards leaving a perfectly smooth factory new surface on the wood.

[Jim Becker]

Cliff, does it give you enough clearance to scoop out a relatively deep shair profile?

[Ben Rafael]

I'd go for a lower vibration grinder. I have a makita that cost about $70 and after about 10 minutes with the arbortech it is not pleasant to use. And I dont think kevlar gloves would stop that thing from going through your hand before you know what happened.
If you are gluing up the blank for your seat I would suggest using a bandsaw to remove some wood before glue up, it will save you a lot of time.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Cliff, does it give you enough clearance to scoop out a relatively deep shair profile?

For chairs (a use I am planning but haven't done) I think it'll be ideal as the angle of the grinder allows you to approach the work with the disk flat (I think that is the best way to say it) as opposed to on edge, and tilt it up based on user preference making for a genltle scallop.

You can of course edge grind. I do it when I'm sharpening my mower blades.

The PC is a beast of a machine and won't slow down for nuthin and it's got a variable speed. The handles are plenty beefy to wrastle the thing.
I bought mine online somewhere when I wanted to restore the worn beat weathered Cedar shingles on my house and had to gnaw through countless layers of paint. It's fab on old oil but on latex it tends to melt and gum up - of course I only use the fastest speed.

For latex I use a mapp torch and cook it off in sheets.

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

And I dont think kevlar gloves would stop that thing from going through your hand before you know what happened.

It does look dangerous doesn't it?