Question for contractor saw owners.

[Jay Jolliffe]

People who own or used to own. What did you do to tune up your contractor saw. I've seen posts as far as doing a cabinet saw. Is there anything to do to a contractors that you wouldn't have to a cabinet saw. Any help would be appreciated.......:):)

[Doug Shepard]

I used to have a CMan contractor and bought the link belts and machined pulley kit for it. I changed them both at the same time so I don't know which (probably both) provided more benefit. But there was a very noticable drop in vibration and noise and a power increase. I also put the PALS TS aligners on it which made it a lot easier to get the blade aligned right. The only problem was I couldn't leave BOTH the aligner pieces permanently attached as one of them interfered with the travel of the motor for beveled cut setting. So any time it needed re-alignment (too often IIRC) I'd have to re-install it on the one side, then remove it and put the stock bolts back in to lock it in place after adjusting.

[James Phillips]

Same as Doug. For alignment use a dial micrometer. Use Zero Clearance Inserts

[glenn bradley]

Doug did everything I did. My PALS could stay in place once I removed the stock blade guard support arm. This was no big deal as I replaced the stock throat plates with shop made ZCI's and added the MJ Splitter and an overarm blade guard DC from Penn State Ind. I also added an aftermarket fence that Sears used to sell. If you can find one used, they're cheap and bolt right on (Align-a-Rip).

I put a piece of plywood in the bottom of the cabinet (below the blade and above the stand). Cut a circle and installed a 3" black PVC coupler with epoxy. The outer diameter of this fitting is perfect for a 4" DC hose. I also cut a piece of thin hardboard to cover the back while allowing the motor support rods and belt to pass through. This had to be removed when I tilted the blade but there are commercial versions that handle this.

I also went through pains to get the top as flat as possible and level with mother earth. I then rigged a shelf between the legs, just above the floor. I picked up a $3 sack of cement (90lbs.) and wrapped it in plastic and taped it up so no dust would get out. I threw this on the shelf to add weight and stability. This reduced vibration further still.

I added a router extension table too. You can see a pic in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=36317

[Craig Stueve]

Do yourself a favor and buy the "Care and Repair of Shop Machines" book.;)

It will be one of the best investments you can make for tool upkeep and set up. For me at least it answered (and still does) several questions I didn't even know to ask.

Craig

[Mike Holbrook]

I bought a General Contractor Saw a year or so ago. I put a link belt on it and it helped. I also just put a caster system & frame on the bottom of mine. The General caster kit is a PITA to install and the instructions, oh yea what instructions. Having casters helps a great deal.

My biggest problem with the contractor saw is its open frame tends to cover the entire room with saw dust when I use it. I just bought a Festool Dust Collector and I am trying to rig it up to help. I am planing to buy a better dust collector cover : http://www.leestyron.com/sharkguard.php. There are also fabric covers "Boots" which can cover the motor opening and reduce the dust. Unfortunately I do not have a link to a vendor for a boot and could not find one searching, maybe someone else can offer one. With the casters I can now role my saw out the door onto my covered porch if I have a bunch of wood to cut.

[Jim Young]

I did the belt and pulley thing as well as convert the motor to 220v (helps when cutting think stock).

[Frank G]

Bought an old Rockwell I don't remember how long ago. It was in real bad shape so new bearings and such. Hardest part was trial and error with shims so blade would stay straight at the correct angle when the saw was turned on. Machined pullys, coged belt. Got a real good deal on Beis fence. Mine basically sits on a big box and that catch's most the dust. I have a big drawer I pull out to empty. Got the plans somewhere or saw it in a book.
I have used this saw for app 10 years now and cut 4/4 with it. I'm in no hurry.

[Homer Faucett]

Other than putting on a link belt (which you will probably want to do to reduce vibration), and possibly the machined pulleys (my Delta CS was fine with the OEM stamped pulleys once the lousy belt was replaced), there will be little difference between tuning up a cabinet saw and a contractor saw. All the concepts are the same.

Further, you don't need expensive tools to do it. Howie Acheson once drafted up a fantastic article on tuning up a table saw with little more than a stick of wood, a brass screw, and your miter gauge. It's every bit as accurate as a dial gauge. Don't get me wrong, a dial gauge would be nice to have, but I spent that $20-$50 toward a nice Freud combo blade.

I spent about 90 minutes tuning up the saw, and it has cut like a dream since then.

[Pete Brown]

I went nuts on mine :)

http://www.irritatedvowel.com/HomeImprovement/FrankenSaw.aspx

http://www.irritatedvowel.com/Reviews/WoodWorking/IncraSys/Default.aspx

Pete

[Jake Helmboldt]

One problem I've had is that after spending time meticulously setting up my PM64 w/ a dial indicator, as soon as I crank it over to 45 deg bevel, it is back out of perfect alignment. Enough so that perfect miters (using the miter gauge) are difficult sometimes.

If you are considering a saw purchase seriously think about an entry-level cabinet saw or hybrid w/ the trunnions mounted to the cabinet. If I had it to do over again I would never get a contractor saw.

JH

[glenn bradley]

Jake,
Others here have solved the bevel out of alignment issue by installing or changing the shims between the table top and the cabinet. More than one Creeker has gotten his saw with these shims forgotten or improperly installed.