Best way to cut this profile

[Eric Mims]

I cut this today for some picture frames and wanted to know how others would have done it. I thought about routing it with my Woodrat but couldn't think of a good way to support the wood. My table saw is worthless piece of junk, so I did it on the jointer..woah! kind of scary but the result was perfect. It seemed highly dangerous, however, when starting the successive cuts since there was only 1/4" of 'face' touching the table (until the first bit gets onto the outfeed table).

Any other ideas or ways? It was important to keep it as a solid piece, that's why I didn't simply glue on a 3/4"x1/4" 'face' piece.

[Mark Singer]

I do this type of profile on the cabinet saw. Use digital calipers and make 2 cuts. Board Buddies really help for accuracy.

[Eric Mims]

thanks. So do you mean 2 cuts: 1 laying down, 1 standing up? Or 2 cuts: full height full kerf, then another..

[Dave Richards]

Since the rabbet is only 1/4" you could make this in two passes (maybe three) on the tablesaw with the stock run through vertically. I would start with the blade up against a sacrificial fence for the first cut. Featherboards and/or board buddies to keep everything aligned.

You could do it in a single pass with the outside blades of a dado set if you can get the height.

You could leave the stock a bit wider than the 2 3/4" and plow a groove with a dado set or a router bit in the Rat and the brush in the cutter position. After you've got the groove 2 1/2" wide, go to the Tablesaw and rip the excess off with the flat side down.

None of these methods result in a thin piece being trapped between blade and fence.

Mark's idea of two cuts, I expect, involves a shallow cut first with the piece laying down flat. Then a second cut with the waste falling harmlessy to the outside.

[jim gossage]

i'm not really sure if i understand the piece you are cutting. is this is a long piece that is 2 3/4" wide and 1/2-3/4" thick:confused: ? if yes, you could do it on a router by routing a 1/4" x 1" strip away on one outside edge. then, attach a 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide runner to the part you've routed away (with double stick tape or finish nails on the ends) - this will now support the piece as you route out the remainder. sorry if i've misunderstood the piece.

[Ron Blaise]

as you have done. Don't see anything wrong with your method. I do it quite often.