What is the correct way to evaluate an Old 12" Jointer

[Tony Scolaro]

I am glad to have found this website. I have been kicking around the OWWM site for awhile and find this site to be a real nice balance of thoughts and opinions. I am in the process of purchasing a 3 toe 12" Porter. I think I know the basics of checking it out. Table flatness, casting for cracks, ease of raising and lowering the table, sound of bearing in use. I do need advice on how to check the tables for sag if I don't have a good straight edge of sufficent lenght. Any tricks of the trade out there? Any advice would be greatly appreciated. If anyone is interested I do have pics but I don't know how to up load picture with post, yet. Take care Tony an Oregon woodworker

[Rick Lizek]

After I set a jointer up I test it by edge jointing 2 pieces the overall length of the bed. That's the benchmark. If that is off then it could be the outfeed table is off, cutter's not set right, etc. There's a couple of books at cambium books on setting jointers. Haven't read them myself but but don't beleive the definitive book has been written yet. I find a 6' machined straight edge is perfect to take care of any large jointer. Don't bother with string...won't work to test it worth a darn. A carefully chosen level or Crain brand flooring straight edge would be a suitable substitute.

[Tony Scolaro]

Thanks Rick What I am talking about not so much the set up to use but the things one does to insure the jointer is in good shape before purchase. Thanks though always need pointers on machine set up. I always wish I have a quick change knife system Tony

[Ted Miller]

Tony, Its best to have a good machinest 24" or 36" straight edge and a good 6" precision square. Then you can check coplanar, dips in the tables and fence for twist. When looking to buy older equipment check around to see if replacement parts are available...