I used my Kreg R3 for the first time yesterday.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Back in late December/early January, Lowes had a weekend deal going where you got a $20.00 gift card with each $50.00 or more purchase.
One of the things I'd wanted was Kreg, so I took the opportunity to "upgrade" from the ~ $20.00 mini to the ~ $40.00 R3.

I had to fasten a piece on a cabinet to separate the 2 doors that are under the sink. Previously, there was no piece there. I first tried toe-nailing it in place on top and felt that wasn't going to be anywhere near strong enough to hold up.

I took it back down and removed the nails. I then broke out the Kreg and read the instructions. They were pretty simple and straight forward, even for a beginner like myself.
I positioned the clamp in the tool, and "eyeballed" where the first hole should go and clamped the tool to the wood and had at it. I repeated it for the second hole.
When I put the piece in place, I clamped it down so it wouldn't move and proceeded to screw it in place.

My conclusions:
- Very handy tool. I'm glad I went with the R3 instead of the mini since it comes with everything you need right out of the box.
- I plan to pick up one of the mini's also at some point.
- I read in another thread here about 2/3 weeks ago about how the Kreg will "shift". I found this to be the case. The work did indeed "shift" even though it was clamped. Minimal, but noticeable.
- "So easy a cave man can do it" - sorry to borrow that line, but in this case it's 100% true. Looking back at the tips given in that other thread, it's easy to see that excellent results can be had for even the rawest of rookies with fairly minimal effort/planning.

Defiantly a yes as far as an answer to "should I buy one". I'm 100% satisfied with the initial results and experience. I consider it a very good expediture even at the full price of ~ $40.00.

[Ted Miller]

Rich, If you use the right angle clamp from Kreg after you drill your first hole you will not have any "creep" when screwing the stock together. Kreg pocket is a great tool and made my jobs go so much faster and IMO stronger joints on face frames...

[David G Baker]

Rich,
I too had the shift. Thanks to the thread you mentioned, I went out and purchased the clamps described in the thread. I haven't had a need for it yet but I am sure the shift will go away when I use the clamps.
I got rid of my shift by using three extra clamps and changing my work surface so I could clamp the work. Don't think I will need to do this when I use the new clamps.
I love the Kreg 3 and have many plans for it.
David B

[Ted Miller]

If I have a rather large face with many pieces I will use the kreg klamp screwed onto my benchtop. This clamp holds the piece in place and then I still use the right angle clamp as well in the pocket holes...

[Pete Brown]

If I understand the original problem correctly, chances are the right-angle clamp would not have worked as the face frame was already installed in a cabinet, in the kitchen, and he was just putting a new center stile in.

If this is a typical sink cabinet, there would be nothing for the other end of the clamp to clamp to or if there was, there likely wouldn't be room for the clamp.

Pete

[glenn bradley]

Rich Engelhardt - The work did indeed "shift" even though it was clamped.
David G Baker - I too had the shift.

I followed Kreg and McFeely's recommendations and tried the screws that have threads only a third of the way up the shaft. Even with these you have to use the appropriate screw for the job. The idea is that the threads pass the joint on their way through trailing the unthreaded shaft behind.

There is the thin bit of material at the bottom of the whole just before the exit point but this is the only place the threads are in both pieces at once. The threads cutting in both pieces is what primarily causes the shift. Using this type of screw of the proper length I don't get shift even without severe clamping.

[David G Baker]

Rich Engelhardt - The work did indeed "shift" even though it was clamped.
David G Baker - I too had the shift.

I followed Kreg and McFeely's recommendations and tried the screws that have threads only a third of the way up the shaft. Even with these you have to use the appropriate screw for the job. The idea is that the threads pass the joint on their way through trailing the unthreaded shaft behind.

There is the thin bit of material at the bottom of the whole just before the exit point but this is the only place the threads are in both pieces at once. The threads cutting in both pieces is what primarily causes the shift. Using this type of screw of the proper length I don't get shift even without severe clamping.
Glenn,
I think you are right on the screw thread length. I did change screws a couple of times and the shift was not there but this was the last couple of joints I made so I did not draw the conclusion that the threads going through the pocket side would cause the shift. I knew I had to be doing something wrong so instead of figuring it out, I threw some money at it by purchasing the clamps. I will give your suggestion a try the next time I use the Kreg.
Thanks.
David B

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,
Thanks for the additional tips.
Yes - this is a typical center stile with nowhere to clamp a right angle clamp.
Honestly, the shift of creep was extremely minimal - maybe 1/32" at most. It's hard to tell because the existing cabinet is painted, and the stile I put in only has 1 coat of primer so far.
I believe if I hit it lightly with a sander, can smooth it to where it's exactly even - or close enough for this particular job.

Kreg rocks!

There's far too many things these days that you buy that work right out of the box like they should &/or are as easy to use as they claim. Happily, the Kreg is one of those that does both.

[Brian Dormer]

I use the Kreg clamps and Kreg screws - make darn sure it's clamped nice and tight and it won't shift. Nice, strong joints. So easy a caveman can do it. (sorry, couldn't resist) I'm not a big fan of the McFeely screws - at least the ones I got in their pocket screw kit. The McF screws don't have the washer head. OTOH - if you are using 1/2" material - the smaller head could be an asset (the Kreg screws always stick out). Typically, I just stay away from using 1/2" stock.

[glenn bradley]

Hi Brian,

The McF pan head screws you speak of are just as you describe; made for 1/2" material. I also use them for face frames as I never get the head of the screw peeking out above the surface. McF sells washer head but doesn't push them as pocket screws. I have no affiliation and have only bought a couple hundred screws from them. Just trying to help my pocket hole pals out ;-)

My favorite place to get washer head Kregs is at the occasional Woodcraft 'buy one get one free' sale. If you do much PH work it's the best deal I've come across.