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Paul Fitzgerald
02-27-2007, 8:16 PM
Hey everyone!

Here's a Bedside Table design I'm working on. It's not quite complete -- the design is missing the drawer and drawer guides -- but all the joinery is there.

Since I'm a relative newbie at this sort of thing, I thought I'd solicit your opinions on the design and, more specifically, the joinery and whether it seems workable.

http://homepage.mac.com/pgfitzgerald/BedsideTable001.jpg

Thanks for looking!

Paul

John Schreiber
02-28-2007, 11:27 PM
Paul,

I downloaded the SU file and played with it a bit today. The things which stuck out to me were:

1. I prefer the lower shelf to not stick out from the case.
2. I think the lipped drawer conflicts with the strong vertical frame and the drawer should be flush mounted.
3. I wasn't sure if the legs should have a bit of taper near the bottom or not. I think it looks better with a bit of taper, but then they start to compete with the arch for attention.
4. The frame and panel sides have an offset from the vertical frames, but not from the horizontal ones. I think it would look better to have a consistant offset all around.

The joinery looks good. I didn't see any problems there.

Paul Fitzgerald
03-01-2007, 12:04 AM
Paul,

I downloaded the SU file and played with it a bit today. The things which stuck out to me were:

1. I prefer the lower shelf to not stick out from the case.
2. I think the lipped drawer conflicts with the strong vertical frame and the drawer should be flush mounted.
3. I wasn't sure if the legs should have a bit of taper near the bottom or not. I think it looks better with a bit of taper, but then they start to compete with the arch for attention.
4. The frame and panel sides have an offset from the vertical frames, but not from the horizontal ones. I think it would look better to have a consistant offset all around.

The joinery looks good. I didn't see any problems there.

John,

Thanks so much for your input!

1) I like that idea! I can lower the shelf 3/4" (or 7/8" for a consistent offset) and put it behind the bottom front rail.

2) I see what you mean, but I wasn't sure how to handle it. I'm not a huge fan of that kind of drawer, but it would definitely work. I've attached an image. Is this what you mean? Is there an alternative to this?

3) I thought about that too. I'll play around with it and see if I can come up with something that's pleasing to the eye, yet doesn't distract from the arch.

4) I agree, but the lipped drawer tripped me up. :) But #2 should take care of it.

Thanks again!

Paul

Ken Werner
03-01-2007, 5:04 PM
Paul, if the bottom shelf is made of sheet goods [plywood] then no problem. If it is made of solid wood, it will move and may put undue stress on the legs as it expands across the grain. If you put breadboard ends on it, within the frame, this will not happen. It is a very nice looking design.
Ken

Paul Fitzgerald
03-02-2007, 8:27 AM
Paul, if the bottom shelf is made of sheet goods [plywood] then no problem. If it is made of solid wood, it will move and may put undue stress on the legs as it expands across the grain. If you put breadboard ends on it, within the frame, this will not happen. It is a very nice looking design.
Ken

At first, I was going to make it solid wood. But with John's suggestions, I've decided to make it plywood. Thanks for the tip!

Here's the latest version, which includes John's suggestions.

I do like the look of drawer front, but I'm having a bit of trouble getting it the way I want it. On a side note, I think I'm going to build the drawer using the NK-style drawer building technique I found on the fine woodworking site.

I'm also not thrilled with the way the bottom shelf is. I'm not sure how to do the joinery. If I rabbet the bottom rails to accept the bottom shelf, the rabbet runs into the groove for the sides. I could leave it as it is and just use cleats, which I'm sure would be fine.

Being a newbie, I'm actually afraid I'm over-engineering this piece. :D I'm trying to keep it simple, but that's proving to be difficult. I'm also trying to keep assembly in mind as I'm designing it, so I don't end up in a situation where I can't actually assemble it. LOL

Paul

John Schreiber
03-02-2007, 9:50 AM
I think it's looking really good. There are a lot of ways to handle the bottom shelf. Attached to cleats or with a rabbit cut into the edges then treat it like a floating panel would work well. The drawer support looks very interesting, but like you said, perhaps more complex than it needs to be. I don't know the NK design.

The only part of the design which looked a little awkward to me is the space above the drawer. I played with it and increased the mass of the top, increased the overhang and removed the piece above the drawer. Just an idea. I don't have any special knowledge, just going with what appeals to me.


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Paul Fitzgerald
03-02-2007, 12:21 PM
I think it's looking really good. There are a lot of ways to handle the bottom shelf. Attached to cleats or with a rabbit cut into the edges then treat it like a floating panel would work well. The drawer support looks very interesting, but like you said, perhaps more complex than it needs to be. I don't know the NK design.

The only part of the design which looked a little awkward to me is the space above the drawer. I played with it and increased the mass of the top, increased the overhang and removed the piece above the drawer. Just an idea. I don't have any special knowledge, just going with what appeals to me.


59282 59283



John,

You must be psychic! I was thinking about those same changes. :) Can you post or send me the SU file with your changes so I can see how you handled it?

Thanks!

Paul

John Schreiber
03-03-2007, 2:12 AM
I didn't update the joinery, just the appearance. Also need to think in terms of the handle/knob which will go on the front of the drawer.