Needing some help building a router table (specifically with the fence)

[Luke McFadden]

Right now I'm shooting for ultra-simple, so I can just learn about routers, routing, and router tables.

I have a 3/4" MDF top that is about 2'x3'. I built it originally to clamp on to my workbench... but I'm thinking of moving away from this. I'd like to build a simple cabinet on wheels that will slide under my workbench. But, on with the questions!

My fence is really simple. Just a 2x4 the width of the table w/ 2x2's on the outsides so I can clamp it down. But, using it as a bench "attachment" provides some issues with clamping. I'm trying to figure out the best way t use the fence with the table, and keep it low profile. I don't want to spend any money (other than on some bits if need be). How can I make my own "Trenches" in the MDF so that I could put a the head of a bolt in it so my fence can just fasten to the table top itself. Is 3/4" to thin to try to do this? I thought that I could just cut a slot where I would be using the fence, but I'd rather have it with some type of trench.

Sorry for my lack of terminology.

The other question is related to fret boards. I'd like to make a simple one for the top of the fence. But again my question is how to make a "trench" in it so that I can use bolts to attach things?

I'd like to buy some of Rockler's router tracks when I make a better table. But for right now, what is the best way?

I have a simple dust collection setup: a 2x2 hole cut in my 2x4 fence, with a bosch dust collector attachment screwed onto the back. But how much dust is taken up through this area as opposed to the hole that the bit comes through? I made a dado 1" in from the outside of a piece of wood before I cut the hole in my fence. And dust just went everywhere! But, the more I thought about this, it didn't seem like that much dust would have come through the fence since there was 1" of wood between the fence and the dado. Most of it blew out to the right. Which happened to be all of our shoes! Is there a way to avoid this?

Thanks! Sorry if I'm rambling, I'm excited to finally get to use my router!

(on a side note, I order a 15 piece bit set from amazon. It arrived horribly beaten up. the bits seem ok, but the box was completely smashed. Amazon is sending me a whole new set, and I get to keep the old ones!)

[Jim Becker]

Pick up a book, like Bill Hylton's Router Magic or one of Pat Warner's tomes. These books all have nice ideas for fence designs. Do build a "split fence" version so you can open and close things based on the size of the cutter you will be using. Not only does that help with quality, it helps with safety. You want the minimum opening in the fence to accomodate the cutter for best stock support. (Same for your table...)

[glenn bradley]

On the t-track question; several folks make a t-slot bit. If you're going the Rockler route (5/16" t-bolt as opposed to 1/4") which I prefer, they have a bit that is made for this. If you want to do it another way, I have put a 9/16" dado about1/4" deep on my material and then laminated masonite to make the slot like in post #5 in this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=38530

[Bruce Benjamin]

Right now I'm shooting for ultra-simple, so I can just learn about routers, routing, and router tables.

I have a 3/4" MDF top that is about 2'x3'. I built it originally to clamp on to my workbench... but I'm thinking of moving away from this. I'd like to build a simple cabinet on wheels that will slide under my workbench. But, on with the questions!

Luke, 3/4" might be a little thin if it's not supported really well. A lot of guys, including myself, laminate 2 pieces together and then cover the outside with some Formica type material. Mine is a little more elaborate than that with adjustable angle iron to keep it dead-flat forever. I have it mounted in between the rails of my table saw so I can use the TS as an outfeed table if needed. I hardly ever use my TS anymore, (EZ Smart is great!) so the TS top works well as an outfeed table and for holding the work pieces before and after routing.


My fence is really simple. Just a 2x4 the width of the table w/ 2x2's on the outsides so I can clamp it down. But, using it as a bench "attachment" provides some issues with clamping. I'm trying to figure out the best way t use the fence with the table, and keep it low profile. I don't want to spend any money (other than on some bits if need be). How can I make my own "Trenches" in the MDF so that I could put a the head of a bolt in it so my fence can just fasten to the table top itself. Is 3/4" to thin to try to do this? I thought that I could just cut a slot where I would be using the fence, but I'd rather have it with some type of trench.

I would say that 3/4" is definitely not thick enough if you plan to cut any slots in the table at all. I routed out dados in my table and inserted the extruded aluminum miter track into a tic-tac-toe pattern. My fence is a 3' piece of 1/4"x3"x3" angle iron machined square and straight. I cut and drilled various holes into it for bit clearance and dust collection. Also for attaching MDF sub fences and for attaching the fence to the miter track with T-bolts. With the tic-tac-toe pattern I can put the fence in either direction.

Sorry for my lack of terminology.

The other question is related to fret boards. I'd like to make a simple one for the top of the fence. But again my question is how to make a "trench" in it so that I can use bolts to attach things?

I used a, "Keyhole bit" to cut t-slots into the sub fence faces. I bought some of the cheap Harbor Freight feather boards and they attach easily to the t-slots. So far the HF feather boards have worked perfectly in the t-slots with small t-bolts or in miter slots of both the router table and the table saw. I also used the keyhole bit to cut t-slots into the backs of the sub fences so that I can attach them to the angle iron fence with t-bolts and knobs. Super easy to use the t-slot bit. I think I got it from either Rockler or possibly Eagle America. It's been a few years. Some of the t-slot bits require you to first cut a grove before using the bit. This one cuts both at the same time.

I'd like to buy some of Rockler's router tracks when I make a better table. But for right now, what is the best way?

I would buy one of the t-slot bits but it will only be useful if you make your table thicker. It won't work well in 3/4" material but neither will any brand or style of aluminum track.

I have a simple dust collection setup: a 2x2 hole cut in my 2x4 fence, with a bosch dust collector attachment screwed onto the back. But how much dust is taken up through this area as opposed to the hole that the bit comes through? I made a dado 1" in from the outside of a piece of wood before I cut the hole in my fence. And dust just went everywhere! But, the more I thought about this, it didn't seem like that much dust would have come through the fence since there was 1" of wood between the fence and the dado. Most of it blew out to the right. Which happened to be all of our shoes! Is there a way to avoid this?

The fence dust collection really only works when you're routing the edge of a piece. To collect dust when you're routing with the bit buried under a piece of wood you also need dust collection from underneath the table. Some routers have good built in dust collection and others not so good. My Freud FT2000 works ok but the dust shroud attachment is pretty flimsy. I've had to glue it back together several times but it still works. I wish I could get another one from Freud. Otherwise you can just make a box under the table and attach a dust collector to that. There is possibly some concern that a router can overheat if it can't breath. The front of the box my router is in is open so it's not a problem for me. With some cuts like dados there is always going to be at least some sawdust blowing out one end or the other.

Thanks! Sorry if I'm rambling, I'm excited to finally get to use my router!

(on a side note, I order a 15 piece bit set from amazon. It arrived horribly beaten up. the bits seem ok, but the box was completely smashed. Amazon is sending me a whole new set, and I get to keep the old ones!)

Sounds like you got a good deal from Amazon! Good luck with the table. I really don't think 3/4" is thick enough without good support and it's definitely not thick enough to cut any t-slots or dados in. Just my opinion though.

Bruce

[Larry Singer]

If I understand your question, you want a way to clamp your fence to the MDF and don't want to invest in t-track yet...if that is correct, though I don't have much experience with MDF so I'm not sure if this will effect the strenght to much, you could dado out on the bottom the width and depth of the hex head of a bolt, then using a router bit, route a slot inthe CENTER of the dado such that the bolt could stick trough it and then through a flang on the fence where would tighten it down with a nut (knob would make it more convienent). This approach results in the dado on the bottom holding the bolt head from turning and the routed slot to allow the fence to slide back and forth.

If I mis-understood you quesiton, then maybe if you could provide some details. Good luck.