Rudimentary moisture content question:

[John Miliunas]

OK, so I already know the answer to this one as it applies to the flat world. However, I'm not quite sure for the spinny side. Is moisture content from 12-14% OK for turning bowls, HF's and such without having to rough it out and then do the DNA/dry for @30 days schtick? :confused: :) :cool:

[Bernie Weishapl]

John thanks for asking. I have a lot of interest in this to.

[Steve Schlumpf]

I'm with Bernie on this as I would also like to know - and - what would everyone suggest to use to measure the moisture content? I don't have anything right now but know at some time in the future I know I will need a moisture meter - just wondering what everyone here would suggest.

[John Miliunas]

I'm with Bernie on this as I would also like to know - and - what would everyone suggest to use to measure the moisture content? I don't have anything right now but know at some time in the future I know I will need a moisture meter - just wondering what everyone here would suggest.

Steve, don't have the exact model number handy but, it's a Delmhorst, pin type, with the LED readout lights. Delmhorst has got a great reputation in both, products AND Customer Service. :) :cool:

Typical disclaimer: No, not associated w/Delmhorst other than being a happy customer!

[George Tokarev]

OK, so I already know the answer to this one as it applies to the flat world. However, I'm not quite sure for the spinny side. Is moisture content from 12-14% OK for turning bowls, HF's and such without having to rough it out and then do the DNA/dry for @30 days schtick? :confused: :) :cool:

Sure, 14% is fine if you live where the relative humidity is 75% @ 70F. Now if the relative humidity goes down to 45%, you're going to stabilize at 8% MC, so you've got some changes to tolerate. What I cut downstairs at 28% RH right now is going to grow come summer.

Answer applies to wood, either flat or curved. Free information of the finest sort available at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/ , where the wood handbook is free, and chapter three gives you enough information to game the warp game for your conditions and desires.

Mix shellac with your alcohol.

[John Miliunas]

Sure, 14% is fine if you live where the relative humidity is 75% @ 70F. Now if the relative humidity goes down to 45%, you're going to stabilize at 8% MC, so you've got some changes to tolerate. What I cut downstairs at 28% RH right now is going to grow come summer.

Answer applies to wood, either flat or curved. Free information of the finest sort available at http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/ , where the wood handbook is free, and chapter three gives you enough information to game the warp game for your conditions and desires.

Mix shellac with your alcohol.

Thanks much for the information, George! I was hoping to pick up some nice blanks from a vendor but, I'm also an impatient sort! :o I still might and then go through the rough out/dna/dry process. :) :cool:

[Mark Singer]

John...you know how much turning I do:rolleyes:...I did see some interesting deformed vessels at Sam Maloof's that were turned green and then dried...very interesting forms

[John Miliunas]

John...you know how much turning I do:rolleyes:...I did see some interesting deformed vessels at Sam Maloof's that were turned green and then dried...very interesting forms

Yeah, you do about as much as I have (lately:o ). I need to get back into it and saw some pretty domestic stuff available from out East. Anyhow, I've done some "green" and let it deform. You're right...Sometimes can become quite interesting. By George, I think you just talked me into it! :D :cool:

[Dick Strauss]

John,
I recently turned a maple HF at 12% MC from start to finish with no cracks. It is about 6" dia and 4" high with 1/8" walls. It has warped about 1/16" at the 2 1/4" diameter rim. It was turned bowl style (grain running horizontal), has many bark inclusions, and has lots of curl so take my comments for what they are worth (not much).

I'm sure it will depend a lot on orientation of grain and shrinkage factors of the wood you have in mind.

Good luck with whatever you decide...

Dick

[John Miliunas]

John,
I recently turned a maple HF at 12% MC from start to finish with no cracks. It is about 6" dia and 4" high with 1/8" walls. It has warped about 1/16" at the 2 1/4" diameter rim. It was turned bowl style (grain running horizontal), has many bark inclusions, and has lots of curl so take my comments for what they are worth (not much).

I'm sure it will depend a lot on orientation of grain and shrinkage factors of the wood you have in mind.

Good luck with whatever you decide...

Dick

Hey Dick, thanks for your input. Between that and what Mark said, I think I'm going to try it. I kinda' like the nice curlies you get from wood that isn't so dry, anyhow! What the heck...The whole turning thing is an adventure to begin with, so why not, right? :D :cool:

[George Tokarev]

John,
I'm sure it will depend a lot on orientation of grain and shrinkage factors of the wood you have in mind.


Precisely, except you can't ever, in my experience predict everything. Orientation and spacing of the annual rings and species are the main things, but there are subtle stresses in most pieces that can take you unaware if you turn too far off the final EMC.

Learned, or rather reinforced a bit of the wood knowledge available in that source I referenced when I wet down that thin maple piece last week. Face grain bulged like a fat thigh on either side of a garter. Only spot that never quite returned when it dried displays a bit of a chevron-pattern grain where a slash knot climbed through once. Of course, it bulged in because of the local grain direction, not out. A stress that was well controlled in the initial drying process and held through the shaping, but came out when yet a different one was applied.

[John Miliunas]

I did a "bowl" (actually a container, as it was taller than wider) way back when, out of some highly spalted Maple, while it was still very "green". Got the wall down to just under 1/4". Went in for supper that evening, leaving it on the lathe. By the time I came back out, there was a nasty crack going from the rim and down about halfway toward the bottom. After a few "choice" words, I just pulled it off the lathe and threw it up on one of my counters. Months later, while cleaning, I un-buried it. I had remembered what happened but, after looking at it, thought I was dreaming or something. I swear on a stack of Bibles that, not only was the crack closed up but, there was no way you could even tell where it had been! I threw it back up on the lathe, finish turned, oiled and buffed it. Still have it to this day and I still can't find that blasted crack! :D Maybe I was dreaming! :o :) :cool:

[George Tokarev]

Less frustrating than those where you turn it and only later discover there was an existing crack which had closed up when it got wetter, only to return. Soft maple heartwood is famous for it, as is cherry. One of the advantages to spalted wood is that a filled or closed crack blends in with the color edge of the spalt.

[Dick Strauss]

John,
You weren't dreaming...I've had that happen quite a few times where cracks opened during the drying process (post DNA), only to disappear over a period of several months. I've learned to not judge a cracked piece too quickly, otherwise I might be discarding a future keeper.

Once I did pass judgement on an end-grained red elm bowl after many months. I stomped it into submission (I made lots of cracks and pieces). Somehow the extra cracks didn't improve it like Curt's Dogwood Delight. Though...I really did enjoy destroying it for some reason!!!

Good luck,
Dick