Adding to workbench top question

[Allen Bookout]

I have this cheap workbench pictured below. As you can see I tore out the tool tray because if I fill this in and add some on to the side I can make it 24" wide which I would like. I just ran a router sled over the top to flatten it. Since it is a cheap bench I do not want to put much money into it so my question is this. If I can find some relative knot free common 2 x 4s, fir or pine, why not run these over the jointer and saw to width and glue them to the side? Are these likely to bow and make the top uneven or will they be OK?

[Hank Knight]

Allen,

I don't know why your idea wouldn't work.

For another approach, take a look at the Klaus bench plans in The Workbench Book. Klaus laminated maple for the front section of his bench top and used a 2" maple board for the back section, I.E., he used it flat - not laminated. You might consider the same approach to get the benefit of hardwood for your whole bench top without the cost and hassle of laminating the new back section.

My $.02

Hank

[Luke McFadden]

Allen,

Not to highjack your thread, but what do you mean by router sled?

Thanks

[Allen Bookout]

Thanks Hank! I already laminated Cypress for the addition. I have that book and am going to refer to the section that you mentioned for future reference.

Luke, I use a router sled to flatten tops of things. First I add very straight boards to two of the sides of the surface. Then I adjust the stops to each end of the sled and set the bit just a little deeper than the lowest part of the surface that I am going to flaten. I use a 1 1/4" bit and run it back and forth across the surface. I use a straight edged board to run it against and move it for each pass. I attach a two foot board 90 degrees to the straignt edge so that I can hold it across the surface with my leg so that I do not have to clamp each time. Just slide it, hold it and make another pass. You can get a top that is extremely flat this way.

The first picture is of the sled upright as though I was going to run it across the surface. The second shows the sled on it's side. You can see where the bit comes through and the stops on each end of the bottome of the sled.

Hope that this explanation is clear.

Allen

[Mike Weaver]

Allen,

Not to highjack your thread, but what do you mean by router sled?

Thanks

Luke,
I suspect it's something like this:
http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/story.jhtml?storyid=/templatedata/wood/story/data/408.xml
-Mike

[Allen Bookout]

I looked at Mike's link and that type of sled works also. Here is the "slide along piece" that keeps you from having to clamp and unclamp all of the time. The L bracket is not two feet as I suggested because I had that short piece laying there. Two feet or so works better. It is fairly fast going if you do not have to clamp but slow as the dickens when you have to unclamp and reclamp for every pass.

[Mike Weaver]

I looked at Mike's link and that type of sled works also. Here is the slide along piece that keeps you from having to clamp and unclamp all of the time. The L bracket is not two feet as I suggested because I had that short piece laying there. Two feet or so works better. It is fairly fast going if you do not have to clamp but slow as the dickens when you have to unclamp and reclamp for every pass.
Allen, neat solution.
I like the L bracket to obviate the need for clamping/reclamping.
(your post was not visible when I started adding mine, btw).
-Mike

[Dewayne Reding]

Allen,

If you have a stash of well seasoned (air dried) 2x4s, then yes it will work reasonbably OK. If you intend to pick up a fresh batch at the lumber yard, then your mileage will likely vary. I make a lot of things from construction lumber. They usually move around considerably as they dry. Construction lumber is almost dripping wet when it hits the yard.

[glenn bradley]

Allen,

I like you long sled that allows you to move the whole sled instead of the router within the box. Good version.

[Hank Knight]

Nice job on the top, Allen! That should serve you well for along time.

[Gregg Feldstone]

Can you guys show me some more detailed pics of your sleds, especially the inside construction.

[Dan Mages]

I used 1/4" hardboard screwed to plywood for my benchtop for a countertop in my shop area. If and when the hardboard wears out, I can just pull it up and replace it. Nice and neat.

[Allen Bookout]

Thanks for all of the responses guys!!!!!!!

Greg, You ask for some pictures of the inside construction of some sleds. I just edge jointed two pieces of plywood and screwed a bottom piece on and cut a round hole in the bottom for the router bit to go through. Then I attached the router solid with a few scrap pieces of wood with some wood screws. You may be looking for a different type of sled but here are some additional pictures of mine showing the inside. This is the best that I can do as my sled is not very fancy but sure works good.